[uucdigest] Wednesday, February 5 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6090
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Looking for lug bolts! [uuc] E36 Tranny Troubles <WOB> [uuc] RE: E36 Tranny Troubles <WOB> [uuc] E36 Tranny Troubles cont'd, plus taillights [uuc] DOT 5 Brake Fluid Saga Continues... [uuc] FW: Fan out RE: [uuc] Did I miss something <OT> Re: [uuc] DOT 5 Brake Fluid Saga Continues... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 10:16:44 -0600 From: "Al Buchanan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Looking for lug bolts! Dennis Liu wrote: "Just heard from my shop... I now need 20 longer lug bolts. A friend will also need 20 bolts too. I'm told that they must be '14mm x 1.5mm thread pitch, conehead, and 2.5 inches long.'" Dennis, the Tire Rack sells lug bolts in all shapes and sizes. I purchased a set there (along with my 5 mm wheel spacers). Noah, a Tire Rack sales rep, has been particularly helpful to me with regard to solving unusual fitment issues. Tire Rack Contact info: (888) 541-1777 (Noah is Ext. 272); [EMAIL PROTECTED]; www.Tirerack.com Al Buchanan c/o Fedota, Childers & May, P.C. Chicago, IL Telephone (312) 853-9632 (1984 633 CSi w/ many different sets of wheels) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 13:31:26 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 Tranny Troubles <WOB> Chris says > > Some time ago I was looking for advice on the problem I was having with > the transmission in my '94 325i. This issue was (and still is) that > when the transmission is cold, the shifter hangs up in the neutral > position under fifth gear, without springing back like normal. The > problem goes away when the tranny warms up. The only advice I got was > to replace the tension bushing, which I did, but this did not help. Actually, I looked back at the old threads since I remembered something slightly different. Here were the applicable responses I found: >> From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Subject: Re: [uuc] re: Sloppy Shifter Revisited >> >> Sticking in 5th can be a friction problem. Going easily into 5th is a >> detent problem. On my transmission, the detents are inside the case, but >> some springs are accessible through threaded plugs. and >> From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Re: Sloppy Shifter Revisited >> >> The spring action takes place internally, but I'd look at your shifter >> bushings first, especially the bronze bushing on the bottom of the shifter, >> and the one in the joint at the trans. >> >> These will often wear in a way that allows the shifter to rock side to side, >> while having no detrimental effect on the back and forth shifting motion. >> >> If these bushings get enough slack in them, the detent springs in the trans >> will return the selector rod to the correct position, but the slack will allow >> the shifter to sit differently. >> >> If that's not the problem, then you need to go into the trans. and also this when you reposted the problem on September 6: >> From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Subject: Re: [uuc] Sloppy shifter update >> >> Those are the detents for the front-rear movement of the 3 shift rods. >> Chris' problem is with the side to side movement of the shifter. Those >> detents are inside the rear housing of the transmission. Some of those >> springs are accessible through plugs in the rear housing. The plates and >> links are not. The rear housing of the transmission is relatively easy to >> remove and can be done at home but you will need a good manual as the >> linkage is like a Rubik's cube. Anyway, I think the list advice was somewhat on top of the problem when you first posted it but the Roundel article is more extensive about the particular problems and how to potentially fix them. It is a good read for anyone having the problems that Chris mentioned. It is also good to know there might be some simple, cost effective fixes possible without removing and opening up the tranny. Regards, Rich 95 M3 - no detent or shift gate return issues. 90 325is ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 13:46:23 -0500 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: E36 Tranny Troubles <WOB> I snipped a bunch of stuff where Rich correctly pointed out that I was given more good advice than I gave credit for. What I really meant was that the only advice I got that I actually tried was the tension bushing. I did remember getting some advice that I knew did not apply to my specific situation, and I remembered Gary mentioning something about access to springs, but I did not realize how closely Gary's comments matched the Roundel article until Rich pointed out the advice in the old posts. I think the thing that threw me off was Brett's comment that "If that's not the problem, then you need to go into the trans" referring to the various bushings. Hopefully, if the Roundel is correct, that won't be the case. Considering the mountains of valuable information Brett is kind enough to share, I won't hold this against him <g>. Then again, it wouldn't surprise me in the least if he is right and Roundel is wrong. Bottom line is that the article describes exactly what my problem is and how to address it (hopefully), and I should be more accurate in recalling my own problem history and the advice that was kindly offered to me. Chris Baker > -----Original Message----- > From: Dorffer, Rich [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 1:31 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Cc: Chris Baker > Subject: E36 Tranny Troubles <WOB> > > > Chris says > > > Some time ago I was looking for advice on the problem I was > having with > > the transmission in my '94 325i. This issue was (and still is) that > > when the transmission is cold, the shifter hangs up in the neutral > > position under fifth gear, without springing back like normal. The > > problem goes away when the tranny warms up. The only > advice I got was > > to replace the tension bushing, which I did, but this did not help. > > Actually, I looked back at the old threads since I remembered > something slightly different. Here were the applicable > responses I found: > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 13:51:17 -0500 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 Tranny Troubles cont'd, plus taillights I feared that this might get missed if I tacked it onto my last post, but a question has arisen concerning the tranny repair. The Roundel speaks of destroying the plastic plug on removal, but this item is not available from the dealer. I don't really want to remove it and then find out I can't find anything to replace it with. Any suggestions on where I might be able to find such an item? Any Getrag transmission rebuilders that might have what I need? Also, I've had ongoing problems with the taillight circuit in my car. Near as I can tell, the issue is with the metal contact plate on the back of the taillight housing that the bulb holders make contact with. They seem to be corroding, with one side actually having a hole through it. This is not rust; more like it's been burned through. Is it possible to replace just this plate? The dealer says no. Anyone have spare E36 taillights they're looking to get rid of cheap? Busted ones where this plate may be in good shape? Thanks, Chris Baker ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 14:33:17 -0500 From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] DOT 5 Brake Fluid Saga Continues... I confronted the mechanic that replaced the DOT 4 fluid w silicone based DOT 5 and he was clueless about it. He said "really? I only get dot 3 and 5 I can't find any DOT 4." Then I asked him to see what he used hoping that maybe he was using DOT 5.1 (synthetic but not silicone based) and he showed me the bottle. Unfortunately it was DOT 5 w SILICONE spelled out on the front if the bottle. Then he turned it and read "Not to be used w DOT 3 or 4" dahhhhh. Then he added "Did you have any problem?" Answer : "not yet..." Machanic: "It should be fine." The guy just lost all of my respect that fast. I'm planning to flush the system a couple of times w DOT 4 and see what happens (after all the DOT 5 was in only for about 5-6 months). Thx for the info guys. Original Email: I believe that my last mechanic when flushing the brakes used DOT 5 Fluid. First of all, does anyone know if there are 2 types of DOT 5 one silicone the other NON-silicone based? From a brief search on the Internet it seems that as long as DOT 5 silicone based was not mixed w DOT 4 or 3 it's ok. Unfortunately, it seems that just flushing the brakes is not enough. Anyone has any ideas comments? How can I check what kind of DOT fluid I have in my system? If it is DOT 5 silicone based what do you suggest to do? Just flush it a couple of times w DOT 4? Thx in advance. Stefano ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 11:40:53 -0800 From: "Gordo, Ping" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] FW: Fan out No, we turned on the heat for the Superbowl only. It's down to a comfortable 60 degrees. Too cold for my taste already; requires a blanket at night. Cool, I will check the fan tonight with my ever trusty RadioShaq VOM. ;-). I will also try to hunt down that resistor pack, if it has any. Thanks for the tip. Pingger - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 5:09 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Gordo, Ping Subject: Re: Fan out Ping, if you have analog HVAC controls, try the fan switch on the highest setting. If it works on the highest setting but not lower settings, the problem is the ballast resistor pack. I don't know how to replace the resistor pack on the E36, but it is pretty easy on the E30 (does not require too much swearing). If you have the fancy schmancy automatic climate control system, then I don't even know if it uses a resistor pack. And if the fan does not work on ANY speed, then further diagnostics would be in order. If power is getting to the fan itself but the fan does not turn, then replace the fan. If no power gets to the fan, then trace the circuit backwards to the switch, etc. A VOM would be handy for this work. Is it still 90 deg F down south? HTH, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 12:21:23 -0800 >From: "Gordo, Ping" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] Fan out > >I know it's too early to be concerned with AC and not cold enough >here in So Cal to worry about the heater but I think the fan just >went kaput on my E36 323is. It first started acting up by revving >real high intermittently (had the AC on auto) and then settle down. >This went on for a couple of weeks and then yesterday it just won't >turn on either in the heater or AC mode. I checked the fuses and >they all looked ok. Do I just RR the fan? Any other thing I should >look at first before I venture into this uncharted (for me) >territory? > >TIA > >Pingger ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 20:01:16 -0000 From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Did I miss something <OT> Lee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes about the C320K: "Damn, looking at their website, 17" wheels shod with decent tires & the sport suspension are standard too. Available from $28.7k. Choose this over a 325 any day..." Ah, but that would be *Mercedes* sports suspension. :) BTW thank you to Malcolm for pointing out that the new C320K has a 1.8 litre engine. The only specs I could find were for the C320K Sport Coupe, which featured the earlier 2.3 litre motor - not the smoothest four-cylinder engine ever to turn a crank. A good job Mercedes replaced it, as it practically invalidated the Merc as an option for anyone with an ear for mechanical harmony. Andy T ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:05:29 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] DOT 5 Brake Fluid Saga Continues... Mixing DOT 4 and 5 will not cause any real harm if it is done well, but there will be little or no benefit from it either. The small amounts of glycol fluid left in the system will degrade as before. Flushing with DOT 4 will be a good thing. First remove the master cylinder reservoir and flush it clean and dry. Then install it and fill with the new fluid. Bleed normally and include operating the ABS unit to get a complete flush. Gary Derian > I confronted the mechanic that replaced the DOT 4 fluid w silicone based DOT > 5 and he was clueless about it. > He said "really? I only get dot 3 and 5 I can't find any DOT 4." Then I > asked him to see what he used hoping that maybe he was using DOT 5.1 > (synthetic but not silicone based) and he showed me the bottle. > Unfortunately it was DOT 5 w SILICONE spelled out on the front if the > bottle. > Then he turned it and read "Not to be used w DOT 3 or 4" dahhhhh. > Then he added "Did you have any problem?" > Answer : "not yet..." > Machanic: "It should be fine." > > The guy just lost all of my respect that fast. > I'm planning to flush the system a couple of times w DOT 4 and see what > happens (after all the DOT 5 was in only for about 5-6 months). > > Thx for the info guys. > > > Original Email: > > I believe that my last mechanic when flushing the brakes used DOT 5 > Fluid. > First of all, does anyone know if there are 2 types of DOT 5 one > silicone the other NON-silicone based? > From a brief search on the Internet it seems that as long as DOT 5 > silicone based was not mixed w DOT 4 or 3 it's ok. > Unfortunately, it seems that just flushing the brakes is not enough. > Anyone has any ideas comments? > How can I check what kind of DOT fluid I have in my system? > If it is DOT 5 silicone based what do you suggest to do? > Just flush it a couple of times w DOT 4? > > Thx in advance. > > Stefano > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6090 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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