[uucdigest] Tuesday, February 11 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6104
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation Re: [uuc] Urethane bushings on e36 Re: [uuc] Urethane bushings on e36 Re: [E30Group] Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation RE: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation RE: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation [uuc] Looking for lug bolts -- success! I think! [uuc] Cold start engine rattle [uuc] Re: Transition - new to you E36 M3 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 14:16:10 -0500 From: "Jefrem Iwaniw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >That's the infamous slide hammer. A primitive, crude contraption that >somehow sells for $300. Alas it is indispensable for this job. its not a slide hammer. and its neither primitive nor crude -- its actually pretty cool. i do agree its indispensable :-). >A round socket will do the job. oh but the SIR tools kit comes with some really nice threaded/bearing'd metal pieces that make this job a snap. >> Special presser-oner to push the new bearing outer race into the >> control arm housing. >> Special presser-oner to press the hub into the inner race, or is >> it the inner race onto the hub? > >Two round sockets again. again, the proper tool makes this much easier than banging. > >> Special puller-oner to pull the axle into the hub. > >A hammer? no no no! don't use a hammer -- you'll mess up your cv joints. you need to use the correct puller (threads-on to the outer part of the halfshaft, and then pulls this into the drive splines). using the right tools makes this a relatively straightforward job. hth, - -jefrem ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:15:13 -0800 (PST) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Urethane bushings on e36 - --0-54464040-1044990913=:10480 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Andrew, Is it possible that your vibrations may be caused by something else? I track my car somewhat regularly, and have spent much time at 110-115 mph, but I don't recall any noticeable vibration. Has it been constant before and after the brace, or is perhaps something like tire wear or alignment at play here? Neil [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:However I have noticed increased engine vibration, particularly at high revs, through the steering wheel and floorpan. This is a small price to pay, especially as increased vibration when cruising is only present above 100 mph or so. - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day - --0-54464040-1044990913=:10480 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <P>Andrew, <P>Is it possible that your vibrations may be caused by something else? I track my car somewhat regularly, and have spent much time at 110-115 mph, but I don't recall any noticeable vibration. Has it been constant before and after the brace, or is perhaps something like tire wear or alignment at play here? <P>Neil <P> <B><I>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</I></B> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">However I have noticed increased engine vibration, particularly at high revs, through the steering wheel and floorpan. This is a small price to pay, especially as increased vibration when cruising is only present above 100 mph or so.<BR></BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/O=1/I=brandr/vday03/text/flow/*http://shopping.yahoo.com /shop?d=browse&id=20146735">Yahoo! Shopping</a> - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day - --0-54464040-1044990913=:10480-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 14:17:09 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Urethane bushings on e36 A stiffer chassis actually improves the ride as there are fewer wobblys after an impact. Sometimes though stiffening can impact noise transmission. Gary Derian > > "The bracing (strut, shock and X) have no negative impact on ride quality." > > I agree on ride quality. I half-expected the presence of the brace to increase "crashiness" over very rough and broken surfaces, as vibration and movement from the front subframe is transmitted more directly into the chassis than via the subframe bushes alone. However I have noticed increased engine vibration, particularly at high revs, through the steering wheel and floorpan. This is a small price to pay, especially as increased vibration when cruising is only present above 100 mph or so. > > Andy T ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 14:09:54 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E30Group] Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation "Jefrem Iwaniw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >That's the infamous slide hammer. A primitive, crude contraption > >that somehow sells for $300. Alas it is indispensable for this job. > > its not a slide hammer. and its neither primitive nor crude -- its > actually pretty cool. i do agree its indispensable :-). Wait a second, it may just be that slide hammer used by my wrench was partly responsible for turning the RWB swap into a PITA. Scott, if you have a threaded tool that could gradually pull the old bearing out, it may just make this job a snap! Give it a shot, take pictures! In the worst case you can still remove the axle half shaft and have a shop remove the stubborn inner RWB race. > using the right tools makes this a relatively straightforward job. What Jefrem said. I'm now reclassifying my prior RWB swap fiasco as the fault of a hammer happy mechanic. alex ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 15:32:53 -0500 From: John Sabatini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation Scott, Have you checked out Neil's website for an excellent write up this procedure. When we did my rear bearing we used both Neil's write-up and Bentley's and Neil's write-up was more useful. Thanks to my Father-in-law and his "awesome set of tools" we were able to fabricate the special tools but it was still a PITA. If and when I have to do the other rear wheel bearing, I will probably rent the tools from Mr. Anderson. Good luck! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 12:57:16 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation John, I used to refer to Neil's web site for every maintenance procedure which I had not already done myself. Then his site kind of disappeared. Thanks for the suggestion, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA John Sabatini <jsabatini@URBANECO RE: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation NOMICS.COM> 02/11/2003 12:32 PM >Scott, > >Have you checked out Neil's website for an excellent write up this >procedure. When we did my rear bearing we used both Neil's write-up and >Bentley's and Neil's write-up was more useful. Thanks to my Father-in-law >and his "awesome set of tools" we were able to fabricate the special tools >but it was still a PITA. If and when I have to do the other rear wheel >bearing, I will probably rent the tools from Mr. Anderson. > >Good luck! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 16:03:17 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Looking for lug bolts -- success! I think! As I wrote previously, >Just heard from my shop... I now need 20 longer lug bolts. A friend will also need 20 bolts too. I'm told that they must be "14mm x 1.5mm thread pitch, conehead, and 2.5 inches long". ___________ Sorry if my original post was unclear. A few of you saw that I had posted to both a Porsche and a BMW list, and couldn't figure out the application. I neglected to specify the marque, as, well, I just needed lug bolts that were "14mm x 1.5mm thread pitch, conehead, and 2.5 inches long", and didn't mention the marque as I didn't see how that was particularly relevant. I learned that, among other things, BMW lug bolts are all 12mm and ball head. So, sorry about the confusion. Here's the story. We discovered last week that when using Speedline Challenge wheels on a Ferrari 355 (or 348 for that matter), the stock bolts aren't long enough for the wheel -- there is only a 1/4" holding the bolt on, instead of the 1/2" for the stock street wheels. Actual 355 Challenge cars use a stud/nut solution. So, I needed some new, longer bolts. ***THANKS*** to all who responded -- much appreciated! I was about to try getting a set from custom fastener sources, but thanks to Bob Zino, who suggested checking with H&R, and Jamie Troutman and Steve Magnusson, who provided a link to ECS tuning, which is an H&R dealer, I think this problem is solved. http://www.ecstuning.com/HR/appguides/app_search.cgi?make=Ferrari&qt=studbol t&model=F355&submit=Search%21&thread=Choose+Thread http://www.ecstuning.com/HR/support/how_to_mesure.html I ordered a set of new H&R lug bolts (HR141560FER, 60mm, M14x1.5 ) from ECS, for $4.95 apiece (plus shipping), in lieu of the ~$70 or so that Ferrari charges PER BOLT. Prestige wheel also sells bolts that look as if they'll work, but they are $8.97 apiece. Part# 20-4316-C 14mm 1.50 RH Dacromet 60mm Shank 83mm Overall. http://www.prestigewheel.com/Image204211c.asp Also, check out Ralph Boothe at www.Boothedesign.com, who has 62mm versions that are chrome plated for $10 apiece -- I don't need chrome plated, as these are solely for track use. The Tire Rack (www.tirerack.com) also came highly recommended, but I lucked out with ECS and so didn't get around to checking with them. And I have a loooong list of fastener manufacturers and distributors, if anyone needs it in the future. Thanks again to all who helped! vty, - --Dennis . ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 16:56:31 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Cold start engine rattle My 95 318ti is parked for the winter but I try to start it once a week or so.....I noticed a metallic rattle immediately upon cold startup that lasted a couple seconds, then went away. I changed the timing chain tensioner (Thanks Neil!) as recommended for higher mileage (121k in my case) M42 engines and I'm still getting the rattle, although it's only for a second or so. �I'm now wondering if it could be something else entirely such as a pulley, bearing, or just that's it's been so damned cold that the oil needs a second to start to flow...... Any ideas? �The car won't be on the road until April so I can't take it anywhere until then....and it sees alot of track time so I don't want the chain jumping around in there. �The A/C pulley has been changed twice .....maybe? Thanks-- Gary Buff 95 318ti 03 325i on order ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 18:14:44 -0500 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Transition - new to you E36 M3 Thanks Neil. Did you recognize yourself as one of the hotshot instructors? I will definitely join the E36 M3 Digest. I was aware of the likely problems of RSM's, rear trailing arm bushings, radiator hose nipples, and water pump, and checked all prospective cars carefully for these items. The one I bought has had the pump replaced (documented) and shows no signs of the other problems, yet. Anything else I should be paying particular attention to at this mileage (74k)? I suspect Alex will say shocks/struts, but they actually feel quite tight. I think this car has led a gentle life. So far. I appreciate your advice, and will seek more later! Bob Fluharty 87 325is 95 M3 Cincinnati - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 11:14 AM Subject: Re: Transition - new to you E36 M3 > on 2/11/03 9:17 AM, "Nancy Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > So here I am, the proud new owner of a pristine 95 M3 > > Bob, > > Welcome to E36 M3 ownership. They are great cars. > > For focussed info on this car, you might also want to join the E36 M3 > Digest, see: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > And let me suggest the first two things you'll probably need to replace, > unless they've already been done. > 1) The rear trailing bushings. These typically wear out sometime after 50K > miles, and the 96+ bushing version is more robust. > 2) The rear upper shock mounts (see, some things haven't changed from the > E30...). The E46 M3 mounts fit fine and last longer. > > In addition you'll want to install the X-brace (from the E36 cabrio, about > $120), which tightens the front end up considerably. > > Neil > 96 M3 > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6104 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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