[uucdigest] Wednesday, February 12 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6105
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Looking for lug bolts -- success! I think! [uuc] Transition - Donate the Bentley Re: [uuc] Transition RE: [uuc] Cold start engine rattle [uuc] Re: Cold start engine rattle Re: [uuc] Re: Cold start engine rattle [uuc] Transition Re: [uuc] Transition Re: [E30Group] Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 19:31:06 -0500 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Looking for lug bolts -- success! I think! Actually, no. BMW wheel bolts have a relatively industry standard 60 degree cone seat. Some/all VW and some old Audi (4000) wheel bolts share the BMW 12mm diameter X 1.5mm thread designation, but have a ball seat. For example, there are VW wheels that will fit an E30 325i, but you must use VW bolts due to the ball seat. Stan Dennis Liu wrote: > As I wrote previously, > >Just heard from my shop... I now need 20 longer lug bolts. A friend will > also need 20 bolts too. I'm told that they must be "14mm x 1.5mm thread > pitch, conehead, and 2.5 inches long". > ___________ > Sorry if my original post was unclear. A few of you saw that I had posted > to both a Porsche and a BMW list, and couldn't figure out the application. > I neglected to specify the marque, as, well, I just needed lug bolts that > were "14mm x 1.5mm thread pitch, conehead, and 2.5 inches long", and didn't > mention the marque as I didn't see how that was particularly relevant. I > learned that, among other things, BMW lug bolts are all 12mm and ball head. > So, sorry about the confusion. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 20:22:03 -0500 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Transition - Donate the Bentley Figured the Bentley was worth more! >Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 06:20:01 -0800 (PST) >From: "Neil N." <> >Subject: Re: [uuc] Transition >- --0-787774599-1044973201=:87967 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii >Sounds like you should've donated the Bentley, >too - the next owner may very well need it... :-) > >> - but for the last four years it belonged to no one, got no love and very little maintenance. >> - Anybody want to buy an A2 Golf/Jetta Bentley, cheap? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 18:11:22 -0800 From: "Joe Elwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Transition Hi , Congratulations! The 95 is a really fantastic track car. So forgiving, unlike the E30s and earlier, they are very rarely ever spun. I see others have replied, but here's some thoughts I have after 3 years of track time: 1) rear shock mounts and trailing arm bushings, as Neil described. 2) not sure what you mean by radiator hose nipples, but the plastic part the top hose mounts to will likely break off at some point. A real dramatic event! About $700 to fix, including labor. 3) if you track it, you may run into the dreaded 95 cylinder 6 blow-by problem. It will overheat on track, but never on the road, no matter how hard you drive it on the road. It's caused by combustion pressure blowing through the head gasket from cylinder 6 into the adjacent water jacket. The pressure gradually blows water out of the system, and overheating results. Let it cool down, open the bleeder valve at top of radiator, and refill, and it will drive home ok. If I had known this I would have saved a few tows! Just be real attentive on the track for water temp, and you won't damage the engine. The fix is a BMP head gasket that has a squish ring surrounding the cylinder. Of course, this is expensive ($2500). My mechanic put in studs and nuts to replace the stretch bolts for the head also. Not sure that's important. Root cause is they bored out that block too much (which is why the 96's and later don't have this problem). 4) You may think you've warped the brake rotors if you drive it hard on the track. You're not. Don't bother with Euro rotors or cooling kits, just run Hawk or PF pads, and it will be fine. The 'warping' is the stock pads melting and distributing pad material unevenly on the rotors. Sure feels like warping though! 5) Put on the X-brace. Cheap and easy to install. Really helps. Order from BMW dealer. have fun! Joe - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nancy Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 5:49 AM Subject: [uuc] Transition > I decided a few years back that when I next needed a car, it would be an > E36M3. (Some rides with hotshot instructors, including a few on this list, > played a large part.) Recently I realized a couple of things: 1) My > E30 is never going to wear out. 2) I'm not getting any younger. 3) I can > preserve capital better with an M3 than in the stock market. > > So here I am, the proud new owner of a pristine 95 M3, purchased from Evan > Evans of the Smoky Mountain chapter in Knoxville. Over the past 10 days I > exchanged many emails with Evan, talked to him by phone at great length > (more than I talked to my wife over the same period, she says), and talked > to his mechanic at some length too. All this conversation resulted in a deal > consumated with astounding quickness once I arrived on the scene. Knoxville > is about 250 miles from Cincinnati. On Sunday, I got an early start, arrived > at Evan's house about 11:15, and was heading home M3'd by 1:30. > > I had arranged to donate my beater VW to charity in Knoxville. This solved a > transportation problem, and also relieved me of the chore of selling it. So > on my way out of Knoxville, I dropped off the title and paperwork for the VW > to be picked up later at Evan's house. (A brief salute to that noble '86 > Golf: Purchased new, it served as primary vehicle for > each family member at some point in time - but for the last four years it > belonged to no one, got no love and very little maintenance. 123k and it > almost never was out of the Cincinnati metro area. 17 years we had that > car!) > So the E30 moves to Beater status. . .wait! That won't work! I like it too > much > to abuse it! > > Evan's car was just the car I wanted. I passed up a bunch that were cheaper > and > many that were closer. It has what I wanted: white, 5-sp, sunroof, OBC. And > it doesn't have what I didn't want: rear spoiler, heated seats, aftermarket > enhancements. A bonus was Contour wheels, which I prefer to the M-spokes. > Most importantly, it is in truly excellent condition. Worth the money, worth > the travel. > > So prepare yourselves, people, for a deluge of really dumb and basic E36 > questions. Most of what I know about my E30 I learned right here, and I > trust you all to re-educate me on the new model. I've ordered a Bentley, but > mainly I'll depend on my fellow Digestors. My plan is to keep it stock, at > least until I've had it on the track a few times. The suspension is totally > original at 74k, so I've probably got some decisions fairly soon. > > So to you E30 guys - I'm still one of you! Honest! To the E36'ers - I > appreciate the chance to join the club. I'll try to serve honorably. > > Bob Fluharty > 87 325is > 95 M3 > Cincinnati > www.skewed-perspective.com > > Anybody want to buy an A2 Golf/Jetta Bentley, cheap? > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 21:12:59 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Cold start engine rattle Gary asks: >My 95 318ti is parked for the winter but I try to start it once a week or >so.....I noticed a metallic rattle immediately upon cold startup that lasted >a couple seconds, then went away. What you are doing by starting the engine every week or so is NOT a good thing for the engine. Unless it gets up to operating temperature for some period of time, you're introducing cold moist air into the engine, which will condense in the oil... This is normal, but normal use of the engine gets the oil hot enough to boil off the water... and getting the oil that hot takes lots longer than just getting engine coolant temperature up. Don't do this. If you're off the road because of weather, add a can of Stabalant[tm] to the fuel tank, start the car and run it for 20 minutes (long enough for the fuel stabilizer to fully circulate through the fuel system). Stop the engine and change the oil. Then disconnect the battery, and leave it alone until spring. It can be useful to put a battery maintainer on the battery (there are several popular ones in the motorcycle world - they charge at 1A or so until the battery reaches full charge - then they completely shut off.) >I changed the timing chain tensioner (Thanks Neil!) as recommended for higher >mileage (121k in my case) M42 engines and I'm still getting the rattle, >although it's only for a second or so. OK - the rattle was worse before changing the timing chain tensioner? > I'm now wondering if it could be >something else entirely such as a pulley, bearing, or just that's it's been >so damned cold that the oil needs a second to start to flow...... Ah - cold.. thought so. An oil activated timing chain tensioner WILL eventually leak down.. ie - pressure is lost. Cold oil takes some time to get circulating in the engine. I think you have your answer.. and again - it points out WHY it is not a good thing to start the engine once a week. >Any ideas? The car won't be on the road until April so I can't take it >anywhere until then....and it sees alot of track time so I don't want the >chain jumping around in there. The A/C pulley has been changed twice >.....maybe? > >Thanks-- >Gary Buff Idea: Put it to bed for the rest of the winter, and then again change the oil when you wake it up in the spring (keep the new-old oil for use in your lawnmower engine - it's still good for that..) and forget about the rattle.. I imagine it's in a garage where the sound is very loud.. outside you'd probably never notice it, and if the car was being driven daily in warmer weather, you'd never notice it. Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert ==================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 18:36:34 -0800 (PST) From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Cold start engine rattle On Tue, 11 Feb 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > My 95 318ti is parked for the winter but I try to start it once a > week or so.....I noticed a metallic rattle immediately upon cold > startup that lasted a couple seconds, then went away. Only partly tongue-in-cheek, but that rattle is probably the car's way of telling you to leave it be unless you actually intend to drive it. You can't get it warmed up by idling it, but you can get the oil polluted with gasoline & unevaporated combustion byproducts. You can also get the exhaust system rusting from the inside with condensed water. Run some gasoline stabilizer into the system before parking it for the winter and leave it. - -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 20:55:47 -0600 From: "John Bunda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Cold start engine rattle > Run some gasoline stabilizer into the system before parking it for > the winter and leave it. You might want to do something for the battery (e.g. a tender) also. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 21:44:39 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Transition Hmm. The S52B32US has a larger bore than the S50B30US, 86.4 compared to 86. And the S54 has a 87mm bore. All blocks have the same 91mm bore center. Gary Derian > important. Root cause is they bored out that block too much (which is why > the 96's and later don't have this problem). ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 20:12:50 -0800 From: "Joe Elwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Transition But they are completely different castings. Bore center is one thing, placement of water jackets another. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 6:44 PM Subject: [uuc] Transition > Hmm. The S52B32US has a larger bore than the S50B30US, 86.4 compared to 86. > And the S54 has a 87mm bore. All blocks have the same 91mm bore center. > Gary Derian > > > important. Root cause is they bored out that block too much (which is why > > the 96's and later don't have this problem). > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 01:03:44 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [E30Group] Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'm now reclassifying my prior RWB swap fiasco as the fault of a hammer > happy mechanic. Before you do that, you might want to rethink what got stuck where. Your original description stated that the inner race got stuck on the axle, requiring it's removal to cut off the race..... E30 axles don't come in contact with the bearing, only the hub. Axle goes through the hub, you remove the nut and knock the axle out of the hub, with a brass drift, or the correct tool that pushes it out. Then you use a slide hammer (factory way) to pull the hub from the bearing. Usually, the outboard, inner race will stay with the hub. Remove the circlip, press the bearing out from behind, extract the race from the hub, put the new bearing in, put the hub in, without pushing the inboard inner race out of the bearing, then suck the axle back through the hub. All in all, about 45 - 60 minutes with the correct tools. - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6105 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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