[uucdigest]        Thursday, February 20 2003        Volume 03 : Number 6127



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] UK M5 FS 
       [uuc] Ofest stuff for sale
       Re: [uuc] Motronic 1.0 vs Motronic 1.2?  Differences?
       [uuc] 4.10 E34 Differential (Open) For Sale
       [uuc] Fuel Pressure Regulators
       RE: [uuc] Fuel Pressure Regulators
       [uuc] Check Engine Light  E30 Code 1211
       Re: [uuc] Check Engine Light  E30 Code 1211
       [uuc] Re:  Speaking of E28s - engine swapping
       [uuc] Updated E36 parts for sale
       Re: [uuc] Re:  Speaking of E28s - engine swapping
       Re: [uuc] Check Engine Light  E30 Code 1211
       [uuc] E28 Engine Swap

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:06:57 -0500
From: "BMWBITS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] UK M5 FS 

No affiliation ..etc etc ..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2403497987&category
=9837

Pick it up for a driving holiday in UK ??

Bill & Shirley Proud,
Tennessee..winters, Seattle..summers
Long commute in between .

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 15:12:36 -0500
From: ellie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Ofest stuff for sale

Oktoberfest memorabilia -- mugs, wine glasses and other stuff from 1982
through 1996. If you're interested, please email me privately and I'll send
you a detailed list.

ellie 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:25:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Motronic 1.0 vs Motronic 1.2?  Differences?

Michael,

See my replies below. . .



- --- Michael McCoy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've stared at the wiring harness from a 750 for a
> bit before. Looks like it
> would be easier to make a new wiring harness to go
> from the existing sensors
> on an M20 to the connector on the new ECU than try
> to splice everything.

The main thing I'm wondering about on this subject is
if the sensor connectors will plug up to the M20's
sensors.


> You'd probably
> need a custom chip, as you'd need some way of making
> the ECU happy being the
> only one there (custom chip should take care of this
> as far as I can tell).

That's another thing I'm trying to figure out:  What
needs to be done to make the ECU run on its own.  I
have a feeling that, if it can be made to run on its
own and not in limp mode, it will be fine without a
custom chip.


> The only way to
> make this a worthwhile conversion would be to keep
> it in the $400 or less
> range. is this possible?

Yes.  Wiring harness on car-part.com for $150, ECU on
eBay for $150, MAF on eBay for $100.  That's $400. 
Buying them all from someone parting out a 750iL may
make them a tad cheaper, as well.

That makes it a little more cost effective than the
Split Second system, dontcha think?  : -)

Brad Couvillon

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:01:53 -0800
From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 4.10 E34 Differential (Open) For Sale

I have an E34 4.10 open (not limited slip) differential for sale.  Came out 
of a 525 automatic.  Could be a good upgrade for someone.  $275.00 plus 
shipping from San Diego (Spring Valley 91977).  Contact me off list.

Mike Holbrook
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 14:59:22 -0600
From: autowerk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Fuel Pressure Regulators

Hey Guys,

We just had a 90 325iS towed in which had an underhood fire as a result 
of a defective fuel pressure regulator. The regulator was new, purchased 
mail order by a guy who used to be a do it yourselfer but will no longer 
do it himself.

The regulator was properly lubricated and installed carefully and 
correctly. The o-ring material however broke down when exposed to 
gasoline and began to spray on its fuel rail side as a result of the 
wrong material being used to construct the o-ring. The spray ignited and 
burned the entire underhood area, hood, harness, etc. Car is a total loss.

Moral of the tale: Unless you use a known good parts brand, you are 
asking for trouble. If you think a good BMW part is expensive, try using 
a cheap one. If you don't work with parts every day and don't have the 
experience or knowledge, don't try to make such a decision yourself. Of 
course, you can always depend upon a faceless, smooth commissioned sales 
guy at the other end of that 800 line...

Hmmm, how much did my local tech say it would cost? Maybe it's worth it...

Jim Wheeler
BimmerWerks, Inc.
2212 Hickory Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70123
504 738 2156

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:47:23 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Fuel Pressure Regulators

Another moral is to always carry a fire extinguisher.  I can't even count
how many times I've "loaned" mine to a stranger to save their car.  However
I don't do it for them, I just hand it to them and instruct them on how to
use it.  Don't wanna chance being sued (kind of sad).

Marco

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of autowerk
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 12:59 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Fuel Pressure Regulators


Hey Guys,

We just had a 90 325iS towed in which had an underhood fire as a result
of a defective fuel pressure regulator. The regulator was new, purchased
mail order by a guy who used to be a do it yourselfer but will no longer
do it himself.

The regulator was properly lubricated and installed carefully and
correctly. The o-ring material however broke down when exposed to
gasoline and began to spray on its fuel rail side as a result of the
wrong material being used to construct the o-ring. The spray ignited and
burned the entire underhood area, hood, harness, etc. Car is a total loss.

Moral of the tale: Unless you use a known good parts brand, you are
asking for trouble. If you think a good BMW part is expensive, try using
a cheap one. If you don't work with parts every day and don't have the
experience or knowledge, don't try to make such a decision yourself. Of
course, you can always depend upon a faceless, smooth commissioned sales
guy at the other end of that 800 line...

Hmmm, how much did my local tech say it would cost? Maybe it's worth it...

Jim Wheeler
BimmerWerks, Inc.
2212 Hickory Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70123
504 738 2156

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 19:22:13 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Check Engine Light  E30 Code 1211

My daughter is reporting the above code on her E30 325is. The code 
translates to a DME fault, I believe. Is this a possible spurious error, 
or should I be looking for a used DME?

She is in Norfolk. Can she safely drive this car back to Baltimore?

TIA,

Ed

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 20:27:49 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Check Engine Light  E30 Code 1211

Have her disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and see what happens.

Alternately, if the vehicle is showing no sign of a problem other than the
light, she should be ok for the drive home.


- -----------------------------------------------------
BMW Special Tool Rentals
Pay per incident tech support
- -----------------------------------------------------
Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> My daughter is reporting the above code on her E30 325is. The code
> translates to a DME fault, I believe. Is this a possible spurious error,
> or should I be looking for a used DME?
> She is in Norfolk. Can she safely drive this car back to Baltimore?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 18:04:20 -0800
From: "T WALROD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re:  Speaking of E28s - engine swapping

Scott,
Well, transferring over the good interior of my 533 to a 535 would entail
R&R uncracked dash pad.  See Tom run away screaming from that job.  And I'm
compelled to admit that I have higher expectations in alignment of body
panels than I have art and capability to achieve.  My personal benchmark is
that when I finish a job you can't tell I've been there.  Easiest way to do
that is to understand my limitations and work within them.  Thanks for the
suggestions though, for someone with different capabilities they would be
good ones.
Tom


[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
.  How about finding a 535i, transferring over your good interior,
and living with the exterior?  Just a thought.  But my perspective is from
the point of view that my car sits in a BART station parking lot all day
and acquires more than its share of door dings.  Or how about this?  Find a
535i that is the same color as your 533i, and transfer over not just the
interior, but also the fenders, doors, hood and trunk lid?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 18:22:17 -0800
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Updated E36 parts for sale

I've updated the list of E36 parts I have for sale and have added pictures
for many of the items.

http://www.pdc-racing.net/forsale.html

Please get in touch if interested in anything.  If there's something that
you're looking for that's not listed, feel free to ask.  I may have it.

All parts are + shipping from 95030 (San Francisco area).

- - Mark
- --
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 21:35:37 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re:  Speaking of E28s - engine swapping

Actually, the dash comes out of an E28 in about 1 hour, less for the second
one.
Not that I'm implying you should do the swap Scott recommends, as it sounds
like you are considering the perfect swap as it is.

If you were to do it as Scott suggests, take the bad dash out first, by then
you'll have found the couple of hidden screws, and will have the good one out
in 30 minutes or so.

Regardless.  If you can get this 535i for under $1000 as you implied earlier,
I wouldn't hesitate.  Buy the car, swap over the motor/trans and have a better
car for little money.

The motor and trans can be removed as a unit, although I'd strongly recommend
then separating them and installing a new clutch kit.

Don't take any wires off the engine that you don't have to.  You unplug the
DME in the glove box and feed the wiring through to the engine bay. Disconnect
any positive cables at the junction on the battery terminal and unbolt the
ground strap to the frame rail.

Leave all the wires on the sensors, etc, connected, as you'll be using that
wiring harness anyway.

Do the same with the 533i, then drop the 3.5 into it.  Done.  It's really that
simple.


- -----------------------------------------------------
BMW Special Tool Rentals
Pay per incident tech support
- -----------------------------------------------------
Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "T WALROD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Scott,
> Well, transferring over the good interior of my 533 to a 535 would entail
> R&R uncracked dash pad.  See Tom run away screaming from that job.  And I'm
> compelled to admit that I have higher expectations in alignment of body
> panels than I have art and capability to achieve.  My personal benchmark is
> that when I finish a job you can't tell I've been there.  Easiest way to do
> that is to understand my limitations and work within them.  Thanks for the
> suggestions though, for someone with different capabilities they would be
> good ones.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 21:35:57 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Check Engine Light  E30 Code 1211

I don't know, is anyone safe in Norfolk?  How is her record?  Has she been
to a driver's school?
Gary Derian

> My daughter is reporting the above code on her E30 325is. The code
> translates to a DME fault, I believe. Is this a possible spurious error,
> or should I be looking for a used DME?
>
> She is in Norfolk. Can she safely drive this car back to Baltimore?
>
> TIA,
>
> Ed
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:04:12 -0800
From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E28 Engine Swap

Brad Couvillon (who is now famous since his photo was in the recent Roundel)
wrote:

>The 533i is much, much lighter.  It started as a
>Euro e28 528i that had the B32 installed into it.
>It was then converted to US spec.  This means
>some (or all) 533i's didn't have heavy things like
>power windows, ABS, etc.

I have owned a '83 533i and an '85 535i and even though I forget the exact
numbers (it's been almost 10 years) I do remember that the weight was almost
exactly the same (according to the big scale you drive on to at the dump
south of San Francisco).  All U.S. Spec. 533 and 535 (and M5) models had
power windows.

>* You learn much more when you remove important
>parts of your car and put completely different ones in
>there.  Trust me on this one ; -)

You do learn a lot when you swap and engines, but the one big thing I have
learned after working on BMWs (including swapping engines)for over 20 years
is that you are always better off selling a car and buying a new one if you
want a different engine.  A 533i with a 535i engine will always be worth
less than a 535i in similar condition.  You may pay a little more to get the
car you want, but you will get the money back when you sell it and you won't
have to spend hours fixing the dozens of problems that always pop up after
an engine swap.

Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA 50039

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6127
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