[uucdigest]          Monday, March 10 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6201



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] F1 <SPOILERS>
       [uuc] '97 4Dr M3 FS
       [uuc] Fog Light wiring - not obvious - need advice  
       [uuc] WTB - clean E36 325/328 in NJ area
       Re: [uuc] Fog Light wiring - not obvious - need advice  
       [uuc] <e36> 325is FS or trade
       [uuc] FS: 97 318i $9,500 (105k)
       [uuc] <E36> Doorloocks 
       [uuc] [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?
       [uuc] cam position sensor on 1.9L
       RE: [uuc] <E36> Doorloocks 
       Re: [uuc] [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?
       RE: [uuc] first car suggestions -- NO bmw content
       RE: [uuc] Cleaning solution
       RE: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain
       [uuc] What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual
       RE: [uuc] E32, E38 7 Series Longevity?
       Re: [uuc] What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 14:36:21 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] F1 <SPOILERS>

> Well, it wasn't a complete loss, as you were wrong.  Kimi was 3rd, behind DC
> and JPM.  :)

JPM's comments on the post race interview were classic.  I love listening to him.  No 
excuses, not even his tires or his strategy and said he would do it again.  He seemed 
pretty pissed off he wasn't one step higher on the podium.  Close but no 
cigar...err...champagne.

His teammate on the other hand...

Later,

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 14:58:45 -0500
From: "Luis Rueda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] '97 4Dr M3 FS

A friend of mine is selling his mint condition '97 M3
(description below, please contact him directly), located
in Springfield, VA.

Thanks,

Luis






   1997 BMW M3 Sedan     Arctic Silver Metallic over Grey Leather

       ( VIN:   WBSCD0321VEE11279 )


   ~75,200 Miles  / Excellent Condition

   BMW CPO(Certified Pre-Owned) Warranty & Roadside Assistance

    until 100k Mi or 26 March 2003   (100% transferable)

   5 Speed Automatic Transmission

   ABS, ASC+T (Traction Control)

   Power Sunroof / Sport Seats

   Power Steering, Brakes, Windows, Locks, Mirrors

   Trip Computer,  Cruise Control

   BMW AM/FM Cassette (anti-theft)/ BMW 6 Disc CD Changer

   BMW Keyless Entry & Alarm, BMW Wheel Locks, BMW Floor mats

   Leather Center Armrest, Weathertech Trunk Liner, Car Cover

   Dealer Serviced / Service Records

      Inspection 2 @ 67k Miles (Full Service incl. Brake and Coolant

   flush)

   Michelin Pilot Sports w/ lots of tread left.


   Kelly Blue Book says $21,500. But let's talk.


   Rob ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 20:01:49 +0000
From: "Flying Brick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Fog Light wiring - not obvious - need advice  

Hello Group:
I'm adding an IS spoiler and factory Hella fog lights to my '85 535i - e28.  
(The parts are used except for new Hella fog light lenses and new H3 bulbs.)

With a test light I checked the two wires that terminate within the fog 
light's plastic housing.  They tested positive for a hot and a ground with 
ignition switch on and light switches on.  However when I connect the two 
wires - black to the wire coming from the H3 bulb, and brown to the metal 
base (as a ground) behind the glass lense - the fog light DOES NOT 
ILLUMINATE.

What's even more puzzling, is when everything is connected and switched on, 
the test light fails when I probe the hot and ground wires.  When I 
disconnect the H3 bulb - the test light shows good hot and ground wires 
again.

I've tried two (new) 100w bulbs and a used 60w.  The fuses are good and I 
can hear the relay.  Again - I'm getting a confirmed hot and ground.  Any 
clues?  Thanks!

- --Stan (L.A.)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.  
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 15:18:18 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] WTB - clean E36 325/328 in NJ area

Hey guys,

My plumber (a really cool guy who just helped his son build one of those
monster turbo Eclipse cars) is looking for a clean E36 328/325.  He's not
too particular on body style or transmission, just as long as the car is
clean.

If you're in the NJ area, please drop me a line privately with details and
price.  IMPORTANT: if forwarding this e-mail to me, please take out the
[UUC] tag in the subject to avoid my e-mail filtering - this will
insure that I see the e-mail right away.

- - Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 15:16:41 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Fog Light wiring - not obvious - need advice  

Your circuit has high impedence.  The meter pulls no current so the voltage
remains high.  With the bulb installed, are both leads hot or ground?  That
will tell you which side has the por connection.
Gary Derian



> Hello Group:
> I'm adding an IS spoiler and factory Hella fog lights to my '85 535i -
e28.
> (The parts are used except for new Hella fog light lenses and new H3
bulbs.)
>
> With a test light I checked the two wires that terminate within the fog
> light's plastic housing.  They tested positive for a hot and a ground with
> ignition switch on and light switches on.  However when I connect the two
> wires - black to the wire coming from the H3 bulb, and brown to the metal
> base (as a ground) behind the glass lense - the fog light DOES NOT
> ILLUMINATE.
>
> What's even more puzzling, is when everything is connected and switched
on,
> the test light fails when I probe the hot and ground wires.  When I
> disconnect the H3 bulb - the test light shows good hot and ground wires
> again.
>
> I've tried two (new) 100w bulbs and a used 60w.  The fuses are good and I
> can hear the relay.  Again - I'm getting a confirmed hot and ground.  Any
> clues?  Thanks!
>
> --Stan (L.A.)
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 15:26:28 -0500
From: "Jason Lile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <e36> 325is FS or trade

1995 325is - black over black leather with sport package.  manual transmission,
ASC, obc, heated seats, cruise, etc.  car has 106k on chassis and 90k on 2.8
liter motor upgrade with OBDI conversion (very comparable to stock '95 M3 in
terms of power).  also has polished 17" M3 LTW style rims.  very fun car to
drive. growing family forces me to consider sale or trade.  i'm asking $12,500
and will also consider a trade to a more roomy e39 or e38 car.  questions,
comments or interested parties can reach me by email or cell phone.  photos
available to serious lookers.  located in central Indiana.  thanks.

jason
317.840.7297

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 15:43:19 -0500
From: "Binder, Larry - Spine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] FS: 97 318i $9,500 (105k)

I am asking $9,500 for my 97 318i.  This price is well below any of the car
site trade in estimates (NADA, Edmunds) This car is very clean.  I am a very
motivated seller.  I just purchased a Pocono house and I am going to need a
truck to transport materials.

1997 318i Arctic Silver, 4 door, automatic, sunroof, cruise control, BMW
Alarm, Heated seats (driver and passenger), Fold down rear seats, 105K
highway miles, second owner (since 13k), All records

Asking $9,500.00 or best

Langhorne, PA

215 702 1424

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 15:56:36 -0500
From: "Andrew E. Skopp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E36> Doorloocks 

On my E36 M3 4 door, the left side rear door lock has begun to act strangely.  Half 
the time or so, it does not respond to the power door lock switch on the console or 
via remote.  The other half the time it does.  Manually lifting or depressing the knob 
operates the door lock fine.  Any thoughts on what the gremlin could be?  Thanks in 
advance,

Andrew E. Skopp

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:02:54 -0800
From: Olivia Simantob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?

Hi Digesters,

Does anyone know how much it should cost to replace the clutch in a '93 
325ic?  My clutch has started slipping a little and the shop I have 
been taking it to in San Francisco estimated it would be $1-2K, 
depending on whether anything else has been damaged by the wear on the 
clutch.  Does this seem reasonable?  Is it normal to need to replace 
the clutch at only 65K miles on a car that has not been driven on a 
more than an average number of hills?  The clutch on my car has also 
been extremely stiff since I got it four years ago.  Any guesses as to 
whether replacing the clutch will actually "fix" this?

Thanks in advance for any info!

Olivia
'93 325ic

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 16:14:24 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] cam position sensor on 1.9L

Everyone,

A good friend dropped off his 97 1.9 Z3 for a couple of issues.  One being a
CE light (anyone notice a trend here????).  He was told his car needed $300
worth of new cam position sensor.....

This sounds a little strange to me....I can imagine the purpose of such a
sensor & even why it might trigger the CE light....but does 300 bucks for
the replacement of this sound right????  The other thing that confuses me is
the fact that something like this would fail on a car with only 42k
miles......

Thanks,

Lee->finding out that OBDII BMWs are apparently the reason for all the smog
in Atlanta.....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 16:14:16 -0500
From: "Binder, Larry - Spine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <E36> Doorloocks 

Probably a bad solenoid.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew E. Skopp [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 3:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] <E36> Doorloocks 


On my E36 M3 4 door, the left side rear door lock has begun to act
strangely.  Half the time or so, it does not respond to the power door lock
switch on the console or via remote.  The other half the time it does.
Manually lifting or depressing the knob operates the door lock fine.  Any
thoughts on what the gremlin could be?  Thanks in advance,

Andrew E. Skopp

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 15:34:52 -0500
From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?

Approx. $690.00 installed with factory components.  If you were to need the
flywheel replaced, the job would be about $600.00 more.  Highly unlikely
with only 65K miles.
Good luck!  Keep in mind the labor rate difference.  Here in KY, our shop if
58.76 per flat rate hour....Dealer is about $80.00 per flat rate hour...

Kirk A. Gilchrist
EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair
8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125
[EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:17:41 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] first car suggestions -- NO bmw content

Lee,

You make two excellent suggestions (at least). I sent my daughter to the Russel
school at Sears Point (sorry Infineon) last year. It's well worth the cost.

Very good tires are also an important component of safety and worth every penny.
I also follow this advice and reinforce it with my kids.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:21:53 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Cleaning solution

Michael,

diesel fuel or Kerosene (white gas).

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:50:56 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain

Kurt,

Do you have the automatic antenna? If so unplug the power connector to the motor
assembly and see what happens on the VOM. Drain should be 50 - 150ma.  The power
supply in the antenna housing can flake out and drain a lot of current. I fixed
mine by replacing a cap which had failed.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 16:06:03 -0600
From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual

Just doing some thinking this afternoon.  I talked with a guy the other day
that had a friend that converted his automatic M3 to manual for under $1500.

Has anyone done this, and if so, what was involved in terms of time and
money

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 14:13:10 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E32, E38 7 Series Longevity?

Scott,

In a typical year on an E32 (from experience) you can expect to pay about $3k a
bad year can balloon this to $8k.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 17:18:19 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual

Trans and driveshaft.
Brake and clutch pedals.
Clutch hydraulics.
Shifter and trans mounting parts.
Some minor wiring.
And, to do the job correctly, reprogramming of the DME to 5spd specs.

Cost depends on price for parts, but shop labour will run around 15-20 hours
to do it right.

- -----------------------------------------------------
BMW Special Tool Rentals
Pay per incident tech support
- -----------------------------------------------------
Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Just doing some thinking this afternoon.  I talked with a guy the other day
> that had a friend that converted his automatic M3 to manual for under $1500.
> Has anyone done this, and if so, what was involved in terms of time and
> money

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6201
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