[uucdigest] Friday, March 14 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6217
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: Restriction on DE events for non-chapter members RE: [uuc] Re: Restriction on DE events for non-chapter members [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling [uuc] Retail Auto Parts WorldPac Research Project [uuc] E36 - Hood Won't Open [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling Re: [uuc] Radio question....LONG ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 22:18:49 -0500 From: "Kathy Lyle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Restriction on DE events for non-chapter members Oh great Bill; I trust you have the magic bullet for doing this. 501(c)(3) status is available to a very select group: schools, churches, hospitals, museums. Where in there does a car club fit? It doesn't. The better alternative for a 501(c)(7) organization is code section 501(c)(4), 'civic and social welfare leagues'. In fact many SCCA and PCA regions are tax-exempt under this section of the code. However changing status is an expensive process - having been through it I would estimate at least $4,000 in legal and accounting fees - and then the proof is in the pudding. Your main purpose must now be public good, not member fun. Think public driving safety education, not events for our members on the track. Kathy Bill Matthews wrote: > Now that this horse had been beat to a bloody pulp I will throw out one more > variable, just because "it ain't ever that simple". There are different > classifications of non-profits. I don't know what the local CCA's > classification is but I suspect they are 501c(7)'s - Social and recreation > clubs. To get rid of this annoying membership revenue requirement they just > need to re-incorporate as 501c(3)'s. They can still have members but their > stated purpose needs to be something along the lines of betterment of > mankind by providing and promoting Drivers Education to any and all. > > Then they don't have to worry about non-membership revenue but they do have > to worry about revenue derived from sources that aren't linked to their > charter and purpose like that club picnic or whatever. > > Bill Matthews - ---- Kathryn M. Lyle, CPA, CVA Lyle & Associates CPA www.lylecpa.com Creating Business Value ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 23:17:31 -0500 From: Bill Matthews <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Restriction on DE events for non-chapter members > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kathy Lyle > Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM > To: BMWUUC Digest > Subject: [uuc] Re: Restriction on DE events for non-chapter members > > > Oh great Bill; I trust you have the magic bullet for doing this. > Opps....I left off the little sarcastic smiley faces......;^P Bill Matthews 00 M Geeze ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 01:15:52 -0500 From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling All E28s have less clearance at the left rear wheel, ask anyone who's been there, done that, already. Springs aren't going to help unless you fit something with such a high rate you limit wheel travel greatly, and that won't help your handling. Think about it: Springs don't change the geometry involved in the travel of the rear suspension. As the wheel swings through its arc of travel springs won't affect where that arc occurs, just where the wheel is in relation to the arc at any given point relative to load or bumps. What you need is the correct wheel offset for the car, the proper size wheel and tire, or fender rolling. BBS never spec'd any wheels larger than 7.5" wide for the 535i and recommended only a skinny 205/55x16 tire because of the tight wheel openings on that model, especially the left rear. Good luck with your fender rolling or your next set of wheels and tires. - -Phil Marx "Ron J" wrote: >Well , after I put the new wheels on, and realized that I have to roll the >fenders, I noticed that the car is sitting lower on the drivers side than >the passenger side, and in fact when I go over a dip, only the driver side >rear wheel rubs on the fender. This tells me that I need new springs.. The >one one the drivers side, seems to be a bit worn out, which makes sense >since that is the side of the car that always has weight on it when driving >thanks to the driver, with passengers less frequently weighing down the >right side. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 08:33:43 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Retail Auto Parts WorldPac Research Project There is a company called WorldPac which sells wholesale/jobber rates through a variety of on-line and off-line outlets. Prices and shipping costs vary between them, although all parts are drop-shipped from WorlPac's distribution centers. I have collected up a bunch of the outlets that were once known as BMW sources (although WorldPac sells all nameplates). I am looking for more to add to this list. I am thinking of doing a comparison article for publication and maintaining a webpage shwing the current lowest price suppliers. I assume that there are a number of Japanese sources that would be WorldPac outlets that I would be totally unaware of. The folks I already know about are: Bimmer Parts Company Zionsville Autosport Zygmunt Bimmerparts.com Autobahn Vertex International Eurowebparts Performance Motocars Naples Noble Foreign Import Car Parts Thanks for your bandwidth! Ed ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 09:15:28 -0500 From: Carmen Vetere <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 - Hood Won't Open I have a 1993 318i and I've been having trouble with the hood locks recently. First, when I would pull the hood release the hood would open, but the hood locks would not spring back into the correct position and I'd have stick a screwdriver in there to get them to spring back. I took them apart last weekend to see if I could just remove some of the rust in there. I put it all back together and now the driver's side hood lock won't release. I've managed to get the passenger's side open by removing the grilles and yanking on the cable that runs between the two, but the driver's side won't budge. I've tried pulling on the release with someone holding on the hood and removing the driver's side parking light and yanking on the cable over there. The cable does not seem to be broken. Any other suggestions on what I should do? Is it possible to somehow remove the headlight without opening the hood? Maybe then I could get a little more room to work on it.. Thanks! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 06:23:18 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Pharr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem Here is your puzzler for the day: I recently replaced the oil pan gasket on my E30 325iS and now I have no oil pressure. What could I have screwed up? The motor was running reasonably well before I started. The procedure was done with the motor in the car. I did remember to reinstall the oil pump, and it's drive shaft. Motor is filled to the proper level with fresh oil. I also replaced cam, crank, and idler shaft seals, timing belt, water pump, etc. Motor will now start easily and idle smoothly but the oil pressure light will not go out. I have verified the wiring to the oil pressure senor is good and replaced the existing sensor with a new unit. I have not seen oil spouting from any obvious locations during the brief periods the motor has been running. So what could I have screwed up? Thanks, - --Jeff please reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Web Hosting - establish your business online http://webhosting.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 10:01:12 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling To expand on what Phil wrote, if an E28 will have rubbing problems, it will be with the driver's side. Usually this is due to the subframe bushings taking a slight set to that side, possibly from the way torque affects the subframe within the chassis. New subframe bushings may cure this, but are not a guarantee. >From reviewing your earlier posts, it seems you bought a set of Mille Miglia wheels over your previous choice of OE E34 wheels. In my experience, many aftermarket wheels have the wrong offset for the recommended application. As many are designed for the European market where, as I like to call it, the "Euro trash" look of wheels as far out as possible is popular (along with too-thin tires stretched onto these wheels), they simply do not work properly without shaving the fenders or accepting some wheel rub (UNacceptable as far as I am concerned). General E28 and E34 offset is in the et20 (20mm) range. With an E28, you can safely expect to run a 225/45-17 or 235/40-17 with et20. With the right offset choice, you can run wider... et26 on a 17x9 rim along with shaving the fenders will allow a 255/40-17. Narrower rims alter the actual width of the tire, so 8" rims may allow a little more room or avoidance of fender shaving/rolling. You should check the offset on the Mille Miglias - I suspect they are et15 or less (see "Euro trash" comments above). Your 225/45-17 tires should not be anywhere near rubbing if the offset was correct. Remember that 225s were standard on the E28 M5, and they do not rub. Frankly, I would return the wheels to the vendor as the fitment is not appropriate for your car. - - Rob Levinson (5 E28s is enough for any person) - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Marx" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling > All E28s have less clearance at the left rear wheel, ask anyone who's > been there, done that, already. > What you need is the correct wheel offset for the car, the proper > size wheel and tire, or fender rolling. BBS never spec'd any wheels > larger than 7.5" wide for the 535i and recommended only a skinny > 205/55x16 tire because of the tight wheel openings on that model, > especially the left rear. > > Good luck with your fender rolling or your next set of wheels and tires. > > -Phil Marx > > "Ron J" wrote: > >Well , after I put the new wheels on, and realized that I have to roll the > >fenders, I noticed that the car is sitting lower on the drivers side than > >the passenger side, and in fact when I go over a dip, only the driver side > >rear wheel rubs on the fender. This tells me that I need new springs.. The > >one one the drivers side, seems to be a bit worn out, which makes sense > >since that is the side of the car that always has weight on it when driving > >thanks to the driver, with passengers less frequently weighing down the > >right side. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 10:56:05 -0500 From: "BRIAN BURNS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Radio question....LONG I have to throw in a little info from my experiences, since I do it every day for a living. The reality of the situation is that ALL of the components in the E36 stereo system are JUNK. However, the weakest link is BY FAR the stock head unit. The difference in sound that Mike has been talking about is absolutely correct. Most of that is due to the difference in RMS power from the deck (rms is the constant output from the unit, peak power is absolute power, a much less important number). The stock BMW unit is approx. 8-10 watts RMS per channel, to the factory amplifier, which is then what is actually pushing the drivers in the system. If you switch to an aftermarket deck, of the $150-$250 range, youre usually getting a head unit with an RMS of approx. 20 watts. These units advertise their PEAK power ratings (45x4, 50x4) but these numbers are useless since its really the RMS that matters. Either way, by switching to the aftermarket deck, you are doubling your input signal to the amp, and also, BY FAR sending a cleaner signal to the amp. The factory deck, although made by alpine/pioneer, is basically an absolute piece of junk, because it is made as cheap as possible, so as to keep costs down. It wasnt until very recently that after much consumer complaining that factory systems have started to be improved. The reality is that if the manufacturer can spend less on the radio they put in the car, then they have more to spend in other places, and most of the time, the radio system comes last. I have a 96 M3 myself, and have put three different aftermarket units in it, all the way up to a Pioneer In-Dash DVD/Screen, not exactly needed, but fun to have. But even the 200 Alpine I started with made a HUGE difference, so bang for the buck, do the radio first, and get over the matching the red illumination. Only the Toronto does, and its very hard to comeby now. If you have unlimited resources....well then rip out the factory amp, deck and factory speakers, and replace with either A/D/S, MB Quart (very very bright) or Boston Acoustic Pro's. Next for the amplifer, a high quality four channel with do the job (A/D/S, Crossfire, DEI). For the head unit, if you REALLY want to hear everything in classical music, Alpine F1 Status, $2000 for head unit alone, plus processor. For truly clear/audiophile sound, you need a high Signal to Noise Ratio, a Pre-out ONLY deck (low-level RCA), dedicated Amp or Amps, and components speakers all the way around. Wish I had to money to do it myself!!! So basically, after all my rambling, JUST CHANGE THE HEAD UNIT, YOU WONT BE DISAPPOINTED!!!! Jared MECP certified Installation Supervisor _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6217 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
