[uucdigest]          Friday, March 14 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6219



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling
       Re: [uuc] Turner Motorsport Team Takes Sebring Pole Position
       [uuc] E34 M5 Pre-purchase Inspection
       [uuc] Re: <E36> Clutch pedal
       [uuc] E36 Drivers door won't latch
       Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling
       [uuc] re:  Car Sound Systems
       [uuc] Re: eurotrash wheels 
       Re: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem
       Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling
       RE: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem
       [uuc] iX transfer case help needed
       RE: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem...solved

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 13:35:14 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Childers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling


> The M5 had slight fender flares to accommodate the bigger wheels.

I am not entirely certain this is accurate.  I never saw any sort of
sheetmetal difference whatsoever.

Euro-market M535i (standard 535is with additional body trim and other
different cosmetic parts) came with external add-on fender flares... but
this did not open up the wheel arch any, it just added a lip.  Euro E28 M5
could be ordered with the add-on flares also, but just the same, there would
not be any additional interior room.

There is a possibility that the M5's rear track was different somehow, but
regardless - 225s should never be a fitment problem in any E28 provided the
correct offset is used.

- - Rob

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 10:39:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Turner Motorsport Team Takes Sebring Pole Position

I think I remember a couple of years ago that at least two auto
transmission cars were running in World Challenge --- a Lexus GS and a
Mercedes of some sort, and both were actually somewhat competitive.  Of
course, being a top-flight team, perhaps Champion Audi isn't going to mess
around, and the series is way more competitive these days. 

- --Andre

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 10:43:19 -0800 (PST)
From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E34 M5 Pre-purchase Inspection

Checkout www.bmwe34m5.com FAQ's include pre-purchase
checklist.

Also, join the Yahoo group, bmwe34m5. Lots of
knowledge there as well.

Kevin Kelly
'91 m5

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Yahoo! Web Hosting - establish your business online
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 13:57:23 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: <E36> Clutch pedal

on 3/13/03 1:48 PM, "Andrew E. Skopp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> A strange thing happened yesterday with my clutch pedal.  In my 98 M3, the
> clutch pedal, which had been squeaking up a storm lately, no longer sits even
> with the brake pedal as it used to when it's not being depressed.  The arm of
> the pedal now seems to be hitting the lower dash, and there is about another
> 3-4 inches of travel along with an additional "detent" where the pedal used to
> sit.  My guess is that some sort of metal stopping point for when the pedal is
> not engaged has become bent or broken.  What's the collective wisdom of the
> group?  Thanks,

I suspect that you're another victim of the infamous clutch pedal bushings,
which develop excess play and allow the clutch pedal to move laterally. o
to:

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/

and drill down to the clutch arm bushings. Ron Stygar also sells a complete
replacement clutch arm with upgraded bushings installed.

Neil
96 M3

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 13:42:20 -0600
From: Martin Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E36 Drivers door won't latch

This is a '93 coupe. The door did this 6 months ago and after running
the window down and back up I heard a "click" and it latched again,
until today. Any advice or experience as to what part in the latching
mechanism is failing?

- --Martin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 14:48:59 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling

Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks wrote:

> > The M5 had slight fender flares to accommodate the bigger wheels.
>
> I am not entirely certain this is accurate.  I never saw any sort of
> sheetmetal difference whatsoever.

I recall reading somewhere that the fenders on E28 M5's were rolled at the
factory.  I'd go out to the parking lot & check mine, but it's at home.

> There is a possibility that the M5's rear track was different somehow

isn't the trailing arm somehow subtly different on the M5 as compared to
other E28's ?  if I had the ETK installed here at work I'd check.



Ben
needs to have more information at his fingertips :-P

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 12:52:11 -0800
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] re:  Car Sound Systems

re: Car Sound Systems:

A growl of the BMW intake,
a Snarl from the BMW exhaust.
With a sound system like that,
concern for the car stereo gets lost.

On the Road,

'jk

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:23:25 -0000
From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: eurotrash wheels 

Rob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

"In my experience, many aftermarket wheels have the wrong offset for the
recommended application.  As many are designed for the European market
where, as I like to call it, the "Euro trash" look of wheels as far out as
possible is popular (along with too-thin tires stretched onto these wheels),
they simply do not work properly without shaving the fenders or accepting
some wheel rub (UNacceptable as far as I am concerned)."

Ha ha :).  I had also wondered what on earth those Euro car nuts were doing,
putting ET0 9" chrome rims and 195/55 R17s onto their Z3 1.8s.  It looks
truly awful, and I would be surprised if it was actually road-legal - just
imagine what those sidewalls are going through.  In one article I read some
guy managed to stretch 205/50 R17s onto an 8.5" wide Alpina wheel.  I hope
he isn't intending to go round any corners quickly or that thing will pop
right off.

I think it is a continental thing, possibly German in origin - I remember as
far back as 1997 the D&W catalogue being full of pimped, under-tyred Golfs,
etc.  While lowriders tend to feature small, chromed wheels with often
whitewalled tyres, the tyres do at least generally suit the rim to which
they're fitted (I'm no expert, mind).

I have to say I've never seen this phenomenon on cars in the UK.  We are too
tight.  Here the fashion is for plain steel wheels which are never washed
:).

Andy T

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 14:54:38 -0700
From: allegro1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem

Jeff,

The oil pump is likely not primed - unscrew the oil filter to
vent the air and crank the engine for about 5 seconds - replace the
oil filter - start engine.

Peter du Bois


> Here is your puzzler for the day:
> 
> I recently replaced the oil pan gasket on my E30 325iS
> and now I have no oil pressure.  What could I have
> screwed up?
> 
> The motor was running reasonably well before I
> started.  The procedure was done with the motor in the
> car.  I did remember to reinstall the oil pump, and
> it's drive shaft.  Motor is filled to the proper level
> with fresh oil.  I also replaced cam, crank, and idler
> shaft seals, timing belt, water pump, etc.  Motor will
> now start easily and idle smoothly but the oil
> pressure light will not go out.  I have verified the
> wiring to the oil pressure senor is good and replaced
> the existing sensor with a new unit.  I have not seen
> oil spouting from any obvious locations during the
> brief periods the motor has been running.
> 
> So what could I have screwed up?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:28:05 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <e28> Need rear springs..Was Fender Rolling

The rear fender lips of my E28 M5 are definitely cut way back in 
comparison to Tammer Farid's 535 of similar vintage. Mine have factory 
paint on them, which is why I am confident that they are stock.

Ed

ben keyes wrote:

>Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks wrote:
>
>  
>
>>>The M5 had slight fender flares to accommodate the bigger wheels.
>>>      
>>>
>>I am not entirely certain this is accurate.  I never saw any sort of
>>sheetmetal difference whatsoever.
>>    
>>
>
>I recall reading somewhere that the fenders on E28 M5's were rolled at the
>factory.  I'd go out to the parking lot & check mine, but it's at home.
>
>  
>
>>There is a possibility that the M5's rear track was different somehow
>>    
>>
>
>isn't the trailing arm somehow subtly different on the M5 as compared to
>other E28's ?  if I had the ETK installed here at work I'd check.
>
>
>
>Ben
>needs to have more information at his fingertips :-P
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:29:41 -0500
From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem

Yeeehaw!  That's sounds plausible.  I'm heading out now to give it a
try.

Thanks,

- --Jeff

- -----Original Message-----
From: allegro1 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 4:55 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem

Jeff,

The oil pump is likely not primed - unscrew the oil filter to
vent the air and crank the engine for about 5 seconds - replace the
oil filter - start engine.

Peter du Bois


> Here is your puzzler for the day:
> 
> I recently replaced the oil pan gasket on my E30 325iS
> and now I have no oil pressure.  What could I have
> screwed up?
> 
> The motor was running reasonably well before I
> started.  The procedure was done with the motor in the
> car.  I did remember to reinstall the oil pump, and
> it's drive shaft.  Motor is filled to the proper level
> with fresh oil.  I also replaced cam, crank, and idler
> shaft seals, timing belt, water pump, etc.  Motor will
> now start easily and idle smoothly but the oil
> pressure light will not go out.  I have verified the
> wiring to the oil pressure senor is good and replaced
> the existing sensor with a new unit.  I have not seen
> oil spouting from any obvious locations during the
> brief periods the motor has been running.
> 
> So what could I have screwed up?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 18:00:16 -0500
From: "Benjamin MacRAE" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] iX transfer case help needed

We have an '89 325iX automatic with 139k on the clock.  The spline inside 
the transfer-case where the front driveshaft connects has worn out and needs 
to be replaced.  The spline on the end of the driveshaft was replaced 2 
years ago at 125k, and now the spline/gear *inside* the t-case is worn.

What do we do?  Our very competant independent mechanic said that a 
rebuilt/used t-case can run upwards of $3,000 installed.....my questions 
are: A)Why put another used unit in the car, since most iX's are going to 
have at least this many miles on them, and the used splines are likely to be 
worn as well.  B)Is there a source for rebuilt units at reasonable cost?  C) 
Our mechanic is capable of rebuilding the unit in the car if he can source 
parts to do so....namely, the spline/gear, chain, bearings, seals, etc.  I 
remember reading that the chain is no longer available or ???

Please advise what options we have.......putting $3500 into the car is fast 
approaching it's worth and it is likely that we would not go that route.

Is converting the car to RWD a cost effective option?

Thanks, Ben

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 18:07:39 -0500
From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem...solved

Peter du Bois wins today's puzzler with a solution that didn't even make
me get my hands dirty much less pull the oil pan again!

Oil light went out before the motor had even cranked over for a 4th
revolution.  

A million thanks.

- --Jeff  <- one step closer to the track...


- -----Original Message-----
From: allegro1 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 4:55 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 oil pressure problem

Jeff,

The oil pump is likely not primed - unscrew the oil filter to
vent the air and crank the engine for about 5 seconds - replace the
oil filter - start engine.

Peter du Bois


> Here is your puzzler for the day:
> 
> I recently replaced the oil pan gasket on my E30 325iS
> and now I have no oil pressure.  What could I have
> screwed up?
> 
> The motor was running reasonably well before I
> started.  The procedure was done with the motor in the
> car.  I did remember to reinstall the oil pump, and
> it's drive shaft.  Motor is filled to the proper level
> with fresh oil.  I also replaced cam, crank, and idler
> shaft seals, timing belt, water pump, etc.  Motor will
> now start easily and idle smoothly but the oil
> pressure light will not go out.  I have verified the
> wiring to the oil pressure senor is good and replaced
> the existing sensor with a new unit.  I have not seen
> oil spouting from any obvious locations during the
> brief periods the motor has been running.
> 
> So what could I have screwed up?

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6219
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