[uucdigest]          Tuesday, March 18 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6226



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Late model E36 Oil Change Wrench Size
       Re: [uuc] WANTED:  E30 interior light delay
       Re: [uuc]  E30 stroker crank options
       RE: [uuc] E36 Cruise Control
       Re: [uuc]  E30 stroker crank options
       [uuc] re: 540 oil filter canister socket
       Re: [uuc]  E30 stroker crank options
       [uuc] Big6 Starter
       RE: [uuc] E36 Cruise Control
       [uuc] SHIPPING AN ENGINE?
       Re: [uuc] SHIPPING AN ENGINE?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 12:42:13 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Late model E36 Oil Change Wrench Size

How about this:
http://tinyurl.com/7pjg

or this for those that don't have wrapping issues with long strings:
http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&qt=1&test=Socket%2C+Metric%2C+Impact%2C+Shallow%2C+36+mm%2C+6-Point%3B+%2431.35%3BIMM360%3B3545&tool=all&catItem=true&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=3545&PartNo=IMM360&Price=+%2431.35&ListPrice=+%2431.35&FORMNAME=5&Desc=Socket%2C+Metric%2C+Impact%2C+Shallow%2C+36+mm%2C+6-Point&SUB_Cat_ID=1456970&SUB_Cat_NAME=Impact+Sockets+%2F+Flank+Drive&Cat_ID=1456276&Cat_NAME=1%2F2%22+Drive&group_id=402&group_NAME=Shallow%2C+mm&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Socket, Metric, Impact, Shallow, 36 mm, 6-Point, 1/2" drive (Snap On part #IMM360).

The regular 12-point and 6-point chrome sockets top out at 32 mm and 34 mm, 
respectively, in the 1/2" drive size.  There is a 3/4" drive 12-point chrome socket in 
36 mm (Snap On part #LDHM362).

Later,

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:28:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] WANTED:  E30 interior light delay

Greg,

You don't want to waste your money on that door
contact.  Todd Kenyon -- who I think may still be on
this list -- and I fooled around with the contact on
our e28s about a year ago.  I got mine to work for
about a week by bending it, but that didn't last.

Todd ended up finding a better way to get the light
delay to work.  With his way, the delay works with all
of the doors, not just the driver's door.

Check out the web page he made to explain what he did:

http://home.insightbb.com/~todd.kenyon/delay.htm

Brad "Shifty" Couvillon
'87 528e
www.fatdaddybmw.com




- --- Gregory Bradbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> To all,
> 
> The upgrade pursuit continues....
> 
> Looking for the parts for the E30 interior light
> delay.  There is a relay 
> located in the same place as the central locking
> module (behind and below LF 
> speaker in the kick panel), which is also the same
> as the one on the 
> E23/24/28 (don't know where it is located).
> 
> The switch is inside the door handle & has a small
> harness as part of it.  
> It is also the same as the E28 with the same option.
> 
> If your (dead) car has the "other" option, i.e.
> driver door lock heating, 
> the switch is different as it is made for the
> heating element.  My 
> understanding is that the relay is still the same.
> 
> Willing to pay or trade hard to find Euro parts from
> the heart of the Alps.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Greg in Geneva

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:30:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc]  E30 stroker crank options

The M50 is a whole 'nother argument and a whole new
can o' worms.  Whereas the M20 just needs to be
modified and popped back in its place, the M50 needs
all kinds of custom work and wiring to make it work.

Someone like me would NOT benefit from doing an M50
swap himself.  I would be much better off finding a
good M20B25 block and having someone like Pete McHenry
rebuild it to my specs and then swapping that one for
my current M20.

Yes the M50 would have more potential and is only
slightly heavier than the M20 and yes there are a lot
of guys that have done it that can help and yes there
is a $50+ CD that you can buy that explains it, but
it's so much easier to just do the M20 rebuild and be
done with it.

Brad Couvillon
'87 528e
www.fatdaddybmw.com



- --- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> That is a lot of work for an M20.  At some point it
> is cheaper and better to
> use an M50.  That point is different for everyone.
> Gary Derian

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:32:07 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 Cruise Control

Chris,

Many years ago on 3's (80's vintages) there was a recall to address just such an
issue of uncontrollable cruise. The fix was to springs and sheaths on the
throttle linkages.
Don't know if this might apply to your '94.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 13:50:13 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc]  E30 stroker crank options

Like I said, that point is different for everyone.  An M20 is easy but your
power is limited, and the 2 valve head is inferior to a 4 valve head.  You
were promoting the building of a 3+ liter M20 which is a big job in itself,
and not cheap.

The M50 has better cooling, better breathing, loses that silly jackshaft and
is thoroughly modern just to name a few things.  That is enough for me but
I'm not like everyone.

Gary Derian


> The M50 is a whole 'nother argument and a whole new
> can o' worms.  Whereas the M20 just needs to be
> modified and popped back in its place, the M50 needs
> all kinds of custom work and wiring to make it work.
>
> Someone like me would NOT benefit from doing an M50
> swap himself.  I would be much better off finding a
> good M20B25 block and having someone like Pete McHenry
> rebuild it to my specs and then swapping that one for
> my current M20.
>
> Yes the M50 would have more potential and is only
> slightly heavier than the M20 and yes there are a lot
> of guys that have done it that can help and yes there
> is a $50+ CD that you can buy that explains it, but
> it's so much easier to just do the M20 rebuild and be
> done with it.
>
> Brad Couvillon
> '87 528e
> www.fatdaddybmw.com
>
>
>
> --- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > That is a lot of work for an M20.  At some point it
> > is cheaper and better to
> > use an M50.  That point is different for everyone.
> > Gary Derian
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
> http://platinum.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:56:59 -0800
From: John Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] re: 540 oil filter canister socket

> I've always used my big pair of channel lock pliers.  I can get a good
> grip and turn about 1/4 turn before running into clearance problems.  I
> know there are sockets available, but I'm cheap and have never found
> another need for a 36mm one.

I use a big crescent wrench.

Don't use too big a handle, whatever you do, these covers do *NOT* need to 
be snugged very tight, and doing so will (a) crack the cover or (b) damage 
the rubber mounts the filter canister mounts to.

Make sure to check those mounts, by the way, whenever you change your oil 
(or even more frequently) as they do have a tendency to break and that can 
result in a broken oil line.  A wire tie around the mount and canister 
mounting tab can hold things together until you get a replacement (I keep a 
couple spares around just in case.)

John.
'98 540i (one broken mount thus far)
'00 M5 (none yet)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 11:18:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc]  E30 stroker crank options

When more people do the M50 swap and it becomes an
easy DIY job with common knowledge, I'll do it.  But
in the mean time, I'll stick to my M20 rebuild!  : -)

Brad



- --- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Like I said, that point is different for everyone. 
> An M20 is easy but your
> power is limited, and the 2 valve head is inferior
> to a 4 valve head.  You
> were promoting the building of a 3+ liter M20 which
> is a big job in itself,
> and not cheap.
> 
> The M50 has better cooling, better breathing, loses
> that silly jackshaft and
> is thoroughly modern just to name a few things. 
> That is enough for me but
> I'm not like everyone.
> 
> Gary Derian
> 
> 
> > The M50 is a whole 'nother argument and a whole
> new
> > can o' worms.  Whereas the M20 just needs to be
> > modified and popped back in its place, the M50
> needs
> > all kinds of custom work and wiring to make it
> work.
> >
> > Someone like me would NOT benefit from doing an
> M50
> > swap himself.  I would be much better off finding
> a
> > good M20B25 block and having someone like Pete
> McHenry
> > rebuild it to my specs and then swapping that one
> for
> > my current M20.
> >
> > Yes the M50 would have more potential and is only
> > slightly heavier than the M20 and yes there are a
> lot
> > of guys that have done it that can help and yes
> there
> > is a $50+ CD that you can buy that explains it,
> but
> > it's so much easier to just do the M20 rebuild and
> be
> > done with it.
> >
> > Brad Couvillon
> > '87 528e
> > www.fatdaddybmw.com

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 11:45:26 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Big6 Starter

Anyone have direct experience with replacing a starter on an E23? Will removing
the intake make the job easier? I've heard that a curved box wrench is needed to
get to the bolts (nuts?). Are the bolts screwed into tapped holes in the
transmission bell or are there bolts and nuts with through holes?

Symptoms of the starter are a "coughing noise" and slight ringing at startup. It
may just need a cleaning of the contacts in the selenoid and new grease.
Thanks.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:59:30 +0100 (CET)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Vic=20Maslanka?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 Cruise Control

There was also a recall on 94's and 95's (at least) with the M42
engine.  See below for an example and description.  Don't know if this
applies to your car.

Vic Maslanka

From: <http://www.car.org.tw/recall/bmw/318ic.htm>

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 97V131000
Component: FUEL:THROTTLE LINKAGES AND CONTROL
[EMAIL PROTECTED]: BAYERISCHE MOTOREN WERKE
Year: 1994 
Make: BMW 
Model: 318IC 
Year of Recall: '97 
Type of Report: Vehicle 
Potential Number of Units Affected: 410000 
Summary: 
The cruise control and throttle cables are attached to the same
throttle valve actuating lever at the throttle housing. It is possible
that the plastic bushing on either cable could break due to
environmental influences coupled with vibration. If the bushing breaks,
the outer cable housing can separate from the bushing. In this case,
during application of the throttle pedal without cruise control being
engaged, the outer tube could catch on the edge of the broken bushing. 
This could cause the throttle valve to remain partially open. It his
were to occur, the car might not decelerate as expected increasing the
risk of a vehicle crash. 

Dealers will install a spring steel clip on the outer tube of each
cable in the area of the adjusting screw and plastic bushing. The clip
is designed to prevent the outer tube from dislodging from the bushing.

Owner notification is expected to begin by the end of October 1997.
Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed
upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a
reasonable time should contact BMW at 1-800-831-1117. Also contact the
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
1-800-424-9393. 




 --- KKiely <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> schrieb: > Chris,
> 
> Many years ago on 3's (80's vintages) there was a recall to address
> just such an
> issue of uncontrollable cruise. The fix was to springs and sheaths on
> the
> throttle linkages.
> Don't know if this might apply to your '94.
> 
> -Kevin
> 
>  

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 13:43:46 -0800
From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] SHIPPING AN ENGINE?

Does anyone have experience in shipping an engine?  If so what is the
relative cost? And, more importantly, who do you recommend, or know,
that ships engines?

In this case the engine is boxed/crated.

Thanks, in advance!

Chris
89 M3
01 X5

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:08:54 -0500
From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] SHIPPING AN ENGINE?

I have shipped several.  The normal cost is between $90.00 and $130.00.
There are many carriers, ABF and American Freightways are two that I have
used.  Depending on where you are in the country, you can check your yellow
pages for freight carriers.

Kirk A. Gilchrist
EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair
8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125
[EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6226
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