[uucdigest] Wednesday, June 11 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6455
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] wolverines in the engine bay [uuc] Performance Driving Schools (long) Re: [uuc] wolverines in the engine bay [uuc] RE: Rental vs. Lease acquisition [uuc] <E30> Wanted: Driver's door glass for 2-door [uuc] Looking for Dinan Cold Air Installation [uuc] <FS> OT. 1973 911 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 12:15:54 -0500 From: "w. b. gerard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] wolverines in the engine bay Hey all--Recently my 89 535 has been idling very roughly and dying on start-up. It sparks fine, then the tach will jump around, if I try to hold an RPM it will drop and frequently stall, and even when it's running strong, the engine will, for a while, "cough" (you could say f*rt) or sputter. The RPMs can drop unexpectedly during the first 10 mintues or so of running, causing the car to jerk forward. Not the silky smooth 6 we know and love. The situation could be worsening. Car even didn't want to restart yesterday after one of these episodes. The engine had a top-end rebuild (great job by Continental in Gainesville, FL) and the IDV was replaced about 2 yrs ago. I'd recently exerienced the hesitation issue (made famous here by Ron J, and way different from the current problem), but it had cleared up with an IDV cleaning. I'm thinking it's the trick fuel pressure regulator put in 7 yrs ago finally going bad, or possibly a fuel pump--this problem seem to appear after I'd gotten close to empty, 29 mi left on the readout (and as Duane once said, those things are not to be trusted). Any ideas, on or off list, are greatly appreciated-- Blake Gerard 89 535/5 140k 96 850 (Volvo) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 10:13:05 -0700 From: Donn Vickrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Performance Driving Schools (long) This is the second attempt at posting the below - never made it the first time. Sorry if it is a little late for the topic, but hopefully it will still be helpful. Also, I hope that it does not somehow appear twice. Since joining the list, I've been mostly lurking other than asking a few quickie questions about BMWCCA club racing rules. But, finally, there's a topic - the recent thread on driving schools - where I think that I can add som value. I've done several commercial driving schools over the years, in addition to instructing with SCCA, NASA, and a few other schools. I also wrote an article on performance driving for Sport Compact Car magazine several years ago in case anyone is interested. I could forward my last Word version before the editors made their final changes. Here are some very brief summaries of my school experiences: Bondurant Grand Prix Course: My first school was the 4-day Bondurant course. I highly recommend it. It is expensive (probably close to $3K these days). But the instruction is first rate. And, after the course, I became addicted to high performance driving - causing me to spend way too much on racing... Derek Daly Advanced Driving School: Did a one day at Derek Daly as part of an SCCA SportsCar Magazine article on data acquisition. At the time, they were the only one's using data acquisition at their schools. (Bondurant and others now offer data acquisition.) The staff was also first rate. Highly recommended. (Could also forward that article. But, it's really just related to data acquisition and is now dated by a few years.) For those that can't afford the commercial schools, here's some food for thought. Bondurant SuperKart half day/Jim Hall 2-day Kart: As part of a follow on to the first SCC article, I was able to attend the Bondurant and Jim Hall II karting schools. (Also have a Word version of that article if anyone is interested.) Karting schools are much, much less expensive (couple hundred $) and in many ways karts are more fun to drive. But, they took a real toll on my 40+ year old body. Also, since karts use either centrifugal clutches, or sequential gearboxes, they don't exactly translate to the experience you will have driving your street car at speed (unless you have SMG... then the sequential box karts are actually fairly close in a sense). NASA School: The instruction tends to be very good. It is also very inexpensive. But it is BYOC (bring your own car). The only thing that you do not get at a NASA school is instruction pertaining specific racing techniques, like heel-and-toe and trail braking. (That said, there may be some instructors with NASA, or some NASA chapters, that also try to incorporate these techniques in their schools.) The times I instructed for NASA and others (where you ride with students), honestly, there wasn't enough time to focus on these techniques. With only 1-2 days on track, you're doing good to get the student to be smooth and on line. Autocross schools: By far the cheapest and safest way to go. Also, you'll probably learn more about car control in an autocross school than you will in a high speed-oriented school. On the other hand, you get far less track time. Maybe 10-20 runs tops in a school. That's about 10-20 minutes of track time, versus 2-3 hours at a club school, and 18-24 hours at a commercial school. SCCA Club Racing School: This only makes sense if you want to race wheel to wheel. But, I've instructed a few times for the SCCA. It's inexpensive, but there's no instruction per se. Your really there to demonstrate your abilities to other licensed racers, and they sign off if they think you'd be safe. My recommendation, if you can afford it, is to go take one of the commerical driving schools. The instruction is slightly better. You'll get more track time. They provide the car (which is properly prepared with roll cage, etc.) and the safety equipment. So, you're a little safer in their cars (unless your car is similarly prepared). Also, the wear and tear takes place on their car, not yours. Track time is pretty hard on a car, despite what some people may say. Tires and brakes, in particular, can be completely used up in a few track days. And if other parts of your car are going to fail soon, they'll do so that much sooner on the track. Debris will fly up and hit your windshield and paint. And, at every track event I've instructed at, at least one car has suffered a failure that was terminal for the day... i.e., the driver got no more seat time because the car was disabled beyond repair at the track. As for which commercial school, I would venture to guess that all are roughly equivalent in terms of their quality. So, I'd either pick one close to home, or pick one in a location that you'd like to visit. Or, pick one held at a historic track that you've always wanted to drive/see. Once you've attended the commercial school, continue your education at BMWCCA, NASA and other high performance driving events/schools. Like most skills, you must use it or loose it. If you can't afford the commercial school, try NASA, BMWCCA, PCA, etc. In my opinion, the instruction is generally 90% as good at about 1/10 the price (ignoring the safety and maintenance issues discussed above). And, over time, you can pick up the techniques such as heel-and-toe and trail braking over time, without going to the commercial school. If you are over 40 like me and have a few days to recover (and don't mind pain), or are under 30, try a kart school. I still think that the karting schools were probably the most fun. But, it's not for everyone. (As an example, a good friend who I've raced with for years broke a rib in an endurance kart race - simply from the g-forces and duration of the event. No contract involved at all...) Yours in speed, Donn Vickrey Scottsdale, AZ 1998 IS/T2 M3 2002 996TT 1985 SCCA SoPac Spec RX7 (for sale) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 10:35:37 -0700 From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] wolverines in the engine bay Cold run issue? Check to make sure the cold run sensor on top of the engine is reporting correctly. There are two sensors in the thermostat housing. One is responsible to inform the ECU the car is cold and richen the mixture accordingly; the other is for the temp sensor. This cold run sensor may be fubar-ed. A bentley's manual can tell you which sensor is what and how to check. Jeff 90 535i - ----- Original Message ----- From: "w. b. gerard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 10:15 AM Subject: [uuc] wolverines in the engine bay > > Hey all--Recently my 89 535 has been idling very roughly and dying on > start-up. It sparks fine, then the tach will jump around, if I try to > hold an RPM it will drop and frequently stall, and even when it's > running strong, the engine will, for a while, "cough" (you could say > f*rt) or sputter. The RPMs can drop unexpectedly during the first 10 > mintues or so of running, causing the car to jerk forward. Not the > silky smooth 6 we know and love. > > The situation could be worsening. Car even didn't want to restart > yesterday after one of these episodes. > > The engine had a top-end rebuild (great job by Continental in > Gainesville, FL) and the IDV was replaced about 2 yrs ago. I'd recently > exerienced the hesitation issue (made famous here by Ron J, and way > different from the current problem), but it had cleared up with > an IDV cleaning. > > I'm thinking it's the trick fuel pressure regulator put in 7 yrs ago > finally going bad, or possibly a fuel pump--this problem seem to appear > after I'd gotten close to empty, 29 mi left on the readout (and as Duane > once said, those things are not to be trusted). > > Any ideas, on or off list, are greatly appreciated-- > > Blake Gerard > 89 535/5 140k > 96 850 (Volvo) > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 11:03:04 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Rental vs. Lease acquisition Personally, I just don't get the mindset that allows one to trash or abuse a piece of property that is not ones own. It takes time and energy to produce any complex machine. To abuse it to the point of breakage is such a waste. In any event I try to treat another's property as if it were my own. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 18:26:10 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Wanted: Driver's door glass for 2-door Gruppe: I an effort to save money by replacing the lock cyclinder myself on my E30, I managed to break the glass in the driver's door. Any racers in the NJ area have one lying around that they are not using. I called a local glass place and they wanted $180 for the glass without installation. Gilbert _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 11:29:08 -0700 From: Donn Vickrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Looking for Dinan Cold Air Installation > > Does anyone have the instructions for the Dinan Cold Air intake > > system for and E36 M3. I found one for sale, but it does not have > > the instructions. Any help would be appreciated. > > > > Dave 95 M3 Hi Dave - I don't have the install instructions. But, it's pretty simple. Remove old air box, which involves removing the clips from the old box to the AFM. Then removing a couple of bolts. The new intake just bolts right on. I ran the Dinan on my first M3 a few years ago. It's kind of loud, and does not have a heat shield to keep out the hot air from the radiator/engine bay. Recently bought and installed a Comforti air intake and it seems to be a much better design. Has a nice shield that completely isolates the intake from the hot, underhood air. And draws air in from the kidney grill. Pretty nice setup. One of the better pieces I've seen. Donn Vickrey 98 IS/T2 M3 02 996TT 03 Navigator tow vehicle and tot hauler ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 14:49:38 -0400 From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <FS> OT. 1973 911 Hi All, Sorry for the bandwidth use, however I am thinking about selling my 73 Porsche 911. It was a project car that I have been working on, that is almost complete (needs paint, and lights to be reinstalled) The car has a 2.7 liter engine from a 77 911 in it, along with SC flares, Black Mesh 16" wheels with polished lips, Seats from an 82 911, absolutely no rust, extra light housings, extra hood, also includes a Turbo tail that is not installed on the car. The car is Red, and starts up first crank. I sold my IT company about a year ago, and returned to University to get a law degree, and have absolutely no time for it, or any extra money, so I am putting it up on the block, which I am reluctant to do, since I did most of the work on the car, starting with a bare rolling chassis. Lots of sentimental work done by me. Perfect car to convert to a RS replica (what I was going to do with it) Asking $9000.00 US, could easily be resold for much more after paint. Please reply personally if you or anyone else you know is interested. I havent shot any pics of it with my digital yet. Oh, I forgot to say that it comes with a new car cover as well. Cheers Ron J Toronto, Canada 85 535i 73 911 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6455 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
