[uucdigest] Tuesday, June 17 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6475
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] re: 330i salvaged [uuc] I got the M6 [uuc] Auto insurance in PA Re: FW: [uuc] removing e36 rear drive flange [uuc] New vs. rebuilt calipers RE: [uuc] Re: Dealer Allocation?? [uuc] Re: [E36] removing e36 rear drive flange Re: [uuc] Time to get an e46. 2003 3-series invoice pricing Re: [uuc] A dying Fuel Pressure Regulater, perhaps? [uuc] Car Buying Horror Story Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 07:13:51 -0700 From: "Polands" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: 330i salvaged Guys, Thanks to all of you for your input on the salvage titled car. The likelyhood that there is no remaining warrantee, that it is uninsurable, and unfinanceable, probable latent hidden issues are plenty of reasons to walk, let alone that guy's E30 M3 nightmare. I'll loose no sleep about this decision. Steve Poland ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 07:23:22 -0700 From: "Endersbee, David M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] I got the M6 Thank you very much to all of you who emailed me, both off and on the list, with advice about the M6. I got it and it's simply amazing. This is how all BMWs should be. It's like riding a coked-up Clydesdale bareback. Cheers, Dave Bmw02.org '87 M6 with stuff ============================================================ This message, together with any attachments,is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and may contain information that is legally privileged, confidential and exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message, or any attachment, is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify the original sender or the Pillsbury Winthrop Help Desk at Tel: 800-477-0770 x4860 immediately by telephone or by return E-mail and delete this message, along with any attachments, from your computer. Thank you. ============================================================ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 10:39:50 -0400 From: "Binder, Larry - Spine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Auto insurance in PA Can anyone recommend an auto insurance company in PA? I have been with State Farm for about 5 years and have not had any accidents or tickets. Just looking to lower my rates and still get good service when I need it. Larry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 07:52:14 -0700 From: marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: FW: [uuc] removing e36 rear drive flange get a spring compressor. Marco Roy T. Collins wrote: > hey all. > > I finally got the springs to replace my broken ones. Unfortunatly, I am having the > toughest time getting the torx bolts off. I sprayed them down with anti-seize and > pounded on them foever. I even tried a weaker impact wrench before the hammer came > out. Anyway, I struggled with them all evening and cant bust any of them loose. > Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can get them out? I am going to buy a heavy > duty impact wrench tomorrow and that had better get them off. Are they normally this > tight? On a side note would it be possible to drop the control arm down far enough > to get the springs out without breaking the axel joint, the CV joint? I read on a > two sites that some people had done it but I didnt want to break anything tonight. > Has anyone on the list tried that and if so what results did you get? Did you break > the joint? > > thanks > > Roy Collins > 1996 388i > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 08:14:05 -0700 From: "Michael Andre" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] New vs. rebuilt calipers Do not immediately dismiss the idea of buying new calipers vs. rebuilt or used un-rebuilt ones. If you shop carefully you can find them new for only a small premium above rebuilt. Plus they are spanking clean and so they can be immediately painted or coated or whatever you like. Then rebuild your old ones for minimal cost and sell them to break-even or even a small profit. Worked for me. Mike A <Brad Couvillon wrote: <I'd suggest looking to get used calipers rather than buying <new ones, since you can rebuild them to be good as new <and they're likely to be _much_ cheaper than new or <re-man stuff. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 06:12:32 -0700 From: Brad Houser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Dealer Allocation?? Scott: My 14 y.o. Daughter went to BFD too. All I can say is I'm glad my step son took her and not me. Now if it was the Dead, that would be different. :) I think the dealers push back on giving one of their allocations because they want you to take one off the lot today. Silver, white and black sell. Automatics sell. People who walk in and want PP, manual, SMG, whatever, are not their favorite customers. No sale today. No commission today. Find another dealer or go through a broker like Steve Diamond. Brad Houser > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 3:03 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Re: Dealer Allocation?? > > > David, interesting that you should bring this up: > > >Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 19:49:20 -0700 (PDT) > >From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: [uuc] Dealer Allocation?? > > > >I went in to my friendly, local BMW dealer today > >and said, more or less: "I'd like to buy a 330i > >with Performance Package, please." > > > >He said: "Well, they're sold out for 2003. > >You can have a 2004, but you'll have to wait for > >our allocation on that model. Availability is > >probably sometime in October or later." Great. > > > >Me: "What about European Delivery?" > <snip> > > Friday evening Charlotte (wife) and I had about an hour to > kill before we were due to pick up our daughter from the BFD > concert (don't ask) at the Shoreline Amphitheater. So we > drove by Fremont, California's Auto Mall, stopped at > Claridge's BMW (dealer) and walked around looking to see what > they had on the lot. We especially like doing this when the > dealership is > closed. :^) Observations: > > 1. 90% of the cars on the lot are white, black, silver or dark blue. > > 2. They sure do have a lot of iX's. I can see this if the > dealership is in an area where all wheel drive is popular, > like where it snows, for example. But in the Bay Area, this > is not something lots of customers are bound to want. > > I'm guessing that the mix of cars and colors has something to > do with allocations? If the dealership wants certain > hard-to-get colors or models, they have to take 3 x that > number in colors or models that are not selling well, or that > were over-manufactured. > > Anyone have a better theory? > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 10:19:05 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [E36] removing e36 rear drive flange on 6/17/03 9:09 AM, "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I finally got the springs to replace my broken ones. Unfortunatly, I am having > the toughest time getting the torx bolts off. I sprayed them down with > anti-seize and pounded on them foever. I even tried a weaker impact wrench > before the hammer came out. Anyway, I struggled with them all evening and > cant bust any of them loose. Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can get > them out? I am going to buy a heavy duty impact wrench tomorrow and that had > better get them off. Are they normally this tight? On a side note would it be > possible to drop the control arm down far enough to get the springs out > without breaking the axel joint, the CV joint? I read on a two sites that > some people had done it but I didnt want to break anything tonight. Has anyone > on the list tried that and if so what results did you get? Did you break the > joint? Nobody, but nobody, takes the driveshaft off (OK, now somebody will post that they always do...) Jack the whole back end (so that one side isn't impeding the other via the swaybar), support with stands, and remove the shock lower mounting bolts. Then pry each spring out with a long prybar. I support the hub with a jack so that I don't stress the CV joints any more than necessary. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 15:21:12 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Time to get an e46. 2003 3-series invoice pricing Larry wrote: > I sold my 318i yesterday and need to get a new car... Dennis wrote: > If you don't mind travelling to save money, ... If I were buying a new car I'd use http://www.eurobuyers.com No connection, just a good reputation around our chapter. - -- Bob Sutterfield '87 E30 325iS http://bmwe30.net #1129 DAS KAR #35DR '88 E28 535iS http://m535i.org #154 IHR FUNF #58ER '93 T4 EV Weekender BELUGA BMWCCA #169277 Rocky Mountain Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 08:21:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] A dying Fuel Pressure Regulater, perhaps? If the car runs well when warm, it's most likely NOT the FPR, because if the FPR is bad the car will run badly all the time. The FPR is mechanical, not electrical. The cold start valve, on the other hand, IS electrical. You can do an easy test with a multimeter. With the main relay out of the fuse box area and someone cranking the car, you can test the connector for voltage. If there's no voltage, it could be either your coolant temp sensor or your thermotime switch, most likely the latter. If there IS voltage to the cold start valve, check and see if it flows enough or if it's leaking. Remove the CSV. Have someone actuate the starter when the car is cold (with the main relay out, again), and let the CSV shoot the fuel into a container. The Bentley e28 manual outlines these procedures fairly well. I don't know the amount, but there is a specific minimum amount of fuel that the CSV should flow in a certain amount of time. Any less and it's bad. My two guesses: Thermotime switch or Cold Start Valve. Hope this helps! Brad "Shifty" Couvillon '85 Euro 535i www.fatdaddybmw.com - --- Karl Zemlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > '85 535i 218,000 miles > It's been running rough on warm starts for a little > while - new plugs, > rotor, cap, fuel filter, air filter, valve > adjustment didn't change a > thing. > > The last couple of days it's acted like it's starved > for fuel for a few > minutes of driving - it seems that it stays that way > until I can get up > enough speed that I can let off the gas and create > some good vacuum in the > system. > > My "feeling" is that the fuel pressure regulator is > sticking or somehow > failing. I've had fuel pump relay problems before > and it doesn't act like > that at all. > > Does this sound familiar to anyone - does the > regulator seem like a likely > candidate here? > > TIA __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 10:37:32 -0500 From: "Donna and Terry Cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Car Buying Horror Story I have bought and sold several cars in my lifetime and I always require five items. 1. A clear title with the seller's name on it. 2. Tags that match the registration and title. 3. A current inspection sticker. 4. A bill of sale that specifies the conditions of the purchase. 5. Real money. Cashiers check, cash, Visa card, PayPal (I buy and sell cheap cars occasionally). The bill of sale will provide a paper trail for cash purchases. If you think the car is worth much more than the selling price, there is something wrong with the car or its paperwork. Used car buying is like gambling. Don't take more to the table than you can afford to loose. Sometimes you win, sometimes you don't. One of my son's friends bought a Porsche 930 which wasn't. The Porsche dealership at trade-in time found the original VIN hidden in the bodyworks. The big hit was the insurance company cancelling his policy. One large, beautiful, sweet sounding piece of yard art. Leisure Suit Terry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 12:13:21 -0400 From: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 its a regular eta bottom end now. was a super e with that super e's head and my i internals. turns out that motor was crap. oil pressure was near zero at idle. the problem ended up being the head, which meant not enough oil to the bottom end (so it chewed up the rod bearings) and killed a couple turbos too. (good thing they were junkyard turbos.) cost for all new bearings for the bottom end exceeded the cost of grabbing a regular eta bottom end from a junkyard, so I went and got a regular eta bottom end and threw it in. oil pressure went to near zero again at idle once warmed up. (car still up on jack stands this time.) so I decide it must be the head (warn cam journals I suspect). $400 later I have another used i head in my posession, and on it goes. crank it up, let it get warm, this time oil pressure is around 20 psi at idle. much better. so thats about where the car stands now in terms of what motor is in it. (oh yeah, and a new turbo, downpipe, etc...) the super eta will hopefully get rebuilt at some point with more goodies like bottom end oil sprayers and such. I'm still trying to figure out how much power the eta crank can handle. :o) so the current setup is: 2.7L "i" motor with ~7.8:1 CR T3/T04E turbo. 0.48 A/R exhaust side with clipped T3 wheel, 57 trim compressor wheel. 3" exhaust from the turbo back. pushing for 20 psi of boost on this rather low compression motor. It actually has more torque off boost than I thought it would. I thought I'd be throwing a lot of the driveability away when I went to the 2.7 with such low compression and a turbo that is significantly larger than what i had before, but its actually fairly nice. I was plesantly suprised. - -Michael McCoy - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 9:35 AM Subject: RE: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 > super eta with a turbo if IIRC..... > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: ben keyes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 9:27 AM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 > > > > > > Lee wrote: > > > > > Quit calling it a 525 & tell everybody what's really under > > the hood...... > > > > well it is still basically a 525, just with a turbo, right ? > > > > :-) > > > > > > Ben > > doesn't know Mike, has heard about his car & his head-on > > head gasket changes > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6475 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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