[uucdigest]          Tuesday, June 17 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6477



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] Time to get an e46.  2003 3-series invoice pricing
       Re: [uuc] <e30> rear view mirror recommendations
       [uuc] RE salvage titles
       [uuc] Re:  swapping airbag steering wheel for non-airbag wheel
       [uuc] 1997 BMW 540iA for sale in Nashville $18k
       Re:  FW: [uuc] removing e36 rear drive flange
       Re: [uuc] Re:  swapping airbag steering wheel for non-airbag wheel
       RE: [uuc] Re:  swapping airbag steering wheel for non-airbag wheel
       Re: [uuc] Dealer Allocation??

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 15:14:37 -0400
From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Time to get an e46.  2003 3-series invoice pricing

I worked with Gabe Szabo and found he was helpful. Like most sal^e^s^^^
client advisers I knew more about some aspects of the car than he did but he
was OK and straight forward. I have talked to him a few times since and went
back to him recently to talk about a 330ci when my wife was in the market
for a new car.  Wife went for the CLK320 instead.

For me it was Otto's or Union Park. NO way was I going to buy at Union Park.
Otto's is 45 minutes away on a good day from either my office or my home all
in the wrong direction. Union Park is probably 20 minutes.

Bill

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Binder, Larry - Spine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 2:08 PM
Subject: RE: [uuc] Time to get an e46. 2003 3-series invoice pricing


> I've heard all good things about them.  Currently I work in West Chester,
> PA.  I don't think that they are too far away.  It would however, be about
1
> hour from home (langhorne, pa).  Princeton is pretty close.  Could you
> recommend a salesperson from Otto's?
>
> Larry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Matthews [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 1:11 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [uuc] Time to get an e46. 2003 3-series invoice pricing
>
>
> From: "Binder, Larry - Spine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> > Does anyone have the 3-series invoice/msrp PDF that they could send
> > me?
> Can
> > anyone recommend a dealer in PA/NJ area?
> >
> Larry,
>
> I've found Otto's in West Chester PA to be reputable and up front in their
> dealings. They sold me the M Geezemoble at MSRP when half the dealers in
the
> country were marking them up $10k+ when they first became available in the
> US. Their service has been good and they seem to be a very professional
> store.
>
> Bill Matthews

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 12:23:18 -0700
From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <e30> rear view mirror recommendations

At 10:54 AM 6/16/2003 -0700, John Bolhuis wrote:
>  Anyway, since the mirror is off, should I leave it off, get some
>appropriate epoxy to re-fasten it, or get another different rear view
>mirror entirely?  Suggestions please!

I accidentally knocked the mirror (with bracket) off the windshield on one 
of my cars.  Got a cyanoacrylate-based kit (I think it was a Loctite one) 
made specifically for gluing on rearview mirrors from the local auto parts 
hut.  Or maybe it was from Walmart. Don't quite remember.

The good thing was that I was able to reposition the mirror an inch higher, 
which gave me a little better view out the windshield.  Cleaned the 
windshield really well, then used the kit to glue it back in place - worked 
really well, repair has lasted 3+ years and still counting.

Jim Ochi

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 12:40:21 -0700
From: "Polands" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE salvage titles

In the interest of being fully informed one doesn't have to go much
further than you guys, but once you all had solidified my sprint away
decision, I did check on the following:

Nationwide will not issue Comprehensive or Collision on a
salvage/rebuilt titled car;
BMW will not provide any warrantee coverage whatsoever;
Our Credit Union will not loan a penny.

And that's even if the poor vehicle was perfectly reassembled.

Basicly there is no apparent logical reason to ever consider such a
vehicle.

Steve Poland

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 13:46:37 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re:  swapping airbag steering wheel for non-airbag wheel

Hi Peter, my procedure was intended for a person who was removing the
airbag for repairs, not just to remove it from the car.

The best way to keep the SRS light from blinking is to remove the bulb.

Alternatively, I have it on good authority (I believe it was that Aussie
dude that posts here sometimes, but I won't swear to it) that you can put a
resistor in the circuit in place of the airbag, and then have the dealer
re-set the light.  Of course, the dealer won't re-set the light if the
airbag is missing.  So you'll have to put in the airbag wheel again, go to
the dealer, and have the light re-set.  Then go home again and remove the
airbag.

Now here is the tricky part - figuring out the correct resistance needed to
fool the circuit into thinking that the airbag is still connected.
Supposedly, if you use a low power ohm meter (heck, I don't even know how
to tell if your ohm meter is low power or not), test the airbag to measure
the resistance.

WARNING:  This is not recommended!  Do not do this.  You're nuts to even
think about trying it.  Heck, you can accidentally set off that airbag and
turn it into a damaging, life-threatening projectile.  Or worse.  You'd
have to be freakin' crazy to try this.

But if you just insist on doing this, if I were really that interested in
measuring the resistance, I'd connect some test leads about 5 feet long and
test from a safe distance.  The bag should be with its backside on the
ground, with the business end (where the bag pops out) facing up.  Once you
get a measurement, assuming that you don't just blow off the bag, measure
the resistance of the test leads and subtract from the original reading.
Then go buy a nice fat resistor of the correct value and connect it where
the airbag used to connect.  This will be a good chance to practice your
soldering skills.

All the while, do not turn on the ignition key with the bag out, until you
get the resistor in.  It will set an SRS fault.  I thought I'd said that
before.  Sorry if I forgot.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 02:53:19 -0400
>From: "Zidlicky, Peter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] swapping airbag steering wheel for non-airbag wheel
>
>accomplished the swap seamlessly using scott miller's post as a guide.
>thanks scott.
>
>however, the SRS light on the computer now blinks incessantly ...
presumably
>looking for an airbag that is no longer there.
>
>any fixes short of breaking the bulb in question or placing black
electrical
>tape over the blinking light would be appreciated.
>
>thanks in advance.
>
>Peter
>
>'88 m3
>'90 325ic both now with m-tech II steering wheels.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 15:51:15 -0500
From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 1997 BMW 540iA for sale in Nashville $18k

Update: My boss picked up his new 540iA w/sports pack last week so the
'97 needs to go!




My boss is wanting to buy a new (03, non Bangle) 540i so his 1997 540iA has 
got to go.

You can e-mail him directly at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or call him at 
615-612-1200 x222 , or just reply to me.

Some pictures are here:

http://www.mctourer.com/540i/index.html

The details are:

1997 BMW 540i Automatic
VIN: WBADE6329VBW53552
Exterior Color: White
Interior Color: Tan Leather
Transmission: Automatic
Price: $17,995
Mileage: 77,000

This car features:

Air Conditioning, Alloy Wheels,AM-FM Stereo Radio with Cassette Player and 
6 Disk CD Changer, Anti-Lock Braking System, Body Side Moldings, Dual Zone 
Climate Control, Clock, Cruise Control, Gauge Cluster, Information Center,
Tachometer, Trip Odometer, Carpeting, Console, Courtesy Lights, Dual Sport 
Mirrors, Driver Side Airbag,
Passenger Side Airbag, Side Impact Airbags, Front Bucket Seats, Power 
Memory Driver's Seat, Power Passenger Seat,
Reclining Seats, Inside Hood Release, Interval Wipers, Rear Window 
Defroster, Keyless Entry, Leather Interior,
Leather Wrap Steering Wheel, Map Lights, Moon Roof, Power Brakes, Power 
Door Locks w/Anti Theft System, Power Outside
Mirrors, Power Steering, Power Windows, Rear Wheel Drive, Steering Wheel 
Audio Controls, Telescoping Steering Wheel,
Tilt Steering Wheel Wheel, Tinted Glass, Variable Assist Speed Sensitive, 4 
Wheel Disc Brakes, 18.5 Gallon Fuel
Tank. This White 4DR Sedan with tan leather interior has 77,000 Miles. It 
is in excellent condition and comes with all
manuals and 2 sets of keys. The tires are almost new. Front brakes are 
brand new and the BMW Inspection II($900) was
performed in November. I have a clean CarFax report that I can fax or 
e-mail to you. The 540i is one of the best driving
cars on the road today-luxury AND performance!


Thanks!
Dennis
330i silver/black/manual/sp/pp/xenon/cd

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 14:09:44 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:  FW: [uuc] removing e36 rear drive flange

Roy, I think we'd all like to hear the story behind the engine in your car!
388i?

I don't know why the torx bolts won't come out more easily.  On my E30 we
did not have to remove the drive axles, but the rear suspension is
completely different.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 08:25:16 -0500
>From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: FW: [uuc] removing e36 rear drive flange
>
>hey all.
>
>I finally got the springs to replace my broken ones. Unfortunatly,
>I am having the toughest time getting the torx bolts off.  I sprayed
>them down with anti-seize and pounded on them foever.  I even  tried
>a weaker impact wrench before the hammer came out.  Anyway, I
>struggled with them all evening and cant bust any of them loose.
>Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can get them out?  I am going
>to buy a heavy duty impact wrench tomorrow and that had better get
>them off. Are they normally this tight?  On a side note would it be
>possible to drop the control arm down far enough to get the springs
>out without breaking the axel joint, the CV joint?  I read on a two
>sites that some people had done it but I didnt want to break anything
>tonight. Has anyone on the list tried that and if so what results did
>you get?  Did you break the joint?
>
>thanks
>
>Roy Collins
>1996 388i

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 14:17:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jason Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re:  swapping airbag steering wheel for non-airbag wheel

After removing the airbags from the race car, we
decided that detonating them would be a good way to
introduce our neighbor to the new noise maker in the
garage.  Here's a large (6-8 MB) file showing the
detonation.  

http://www.sa.ucsb.edu/orgs/scc/movies/Air%20Bag%20in%20street.avi

It was much more exciting in person.

Jason

- --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> WARNING:  This is not recommended!  Do not do this. 
> You're nuts to even
> think about trying it.  Heck, you can accidentally
> set off that airbag and
> turn it into a damaging, life-threatening
> projectile.  Or worse.  You'd
> have to be freakin' crazy to try this.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 17:18:56 -0400
From: Bill Matthews <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Re:  swapping airbag steering wheel for non-airbag wheel

> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 4:47 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
> WARNING:  This is not recommended!  Do not do this.  You're nuts to even
> think about trying it.  Heck, you can accidentally set off that airbag and
> turn it into a damaging, life-threatening projectile.  Or worse.  You'd
> have to be freakin' crazy to try this.
>
> But if you just insist on doing this, if I were really that interested in
> measuring the resistance, I'd connect some test leads about 5
> feet long and
> test from a safe distance.  The bag should be with its backside on the
> ground, with the business end (where the bag pops out) facing up.
>  Once you
> get a measurement, assuming that you don't just blow off the bag, measure
> the resistance of the test leads and subtract from the original reading.
> Then go buy a nice fat resistor of the correct value and connect it where
> the airbag used to connect.  This will be a good chance to practice your
> soldering skills.
>


To be double certain safe you need a "Blasters Multimeter" used to measure
resistance and continuity in electric blasting cap firing circuits. MSHA
certified not to produce enough current to detonate the shot.

If you want to run by Hockessin Delaware I can loan you one............

Bill Matthews

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 22:31:26 +0100
From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Dealer Allocation??

Brad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

"I think the dealers push back on giving one of their allocations because
they want you to take one off the lot today. Silver, white and black
sell. Automatics sell. People who walk in and want PP, manual, SMG,
whatever, are not their favorite customers. No sale today. No commission
today. Find another dealer or go through a broker like Steve Diamond."

By comparison, UK dealers tend only to have demo or showroom stock available
*right now*, although there are usually plenty of cancelled orders floating
around the dealer network which you can often pick up for a song.  Sometimes
they make the dealer demo/showroom allocation available to punters if the
price is right and the spec is flexible, but otherwise you have to order.
The good news is that BMW's inventory management is greatly improved since
the dark days of the '90s, when an E36 took five months from order to
delivery; most E46s (except rarities, such as SMG or Clubsport) are now 4-6
weeks from deposit to driveway, depending on how far from
Munich/Regensburg/Rosslyn etc. you live.

The drawback, of course, is that you can't generally rock up and drive away
in a new motor.  The benefit is that you tend to get your exact spec, with
time to offload your old car.

Andy T
318i black/black/es/mp/bluetooth/cd  (thanks, Dennis :))

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6477
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