[uucdigest] Monday, June 23 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6500
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] <e36><m3> Track Pads [uuc] RE: Belt Tensioner secret [uuc] E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe RE: [uuc] Re: installing gauges in an E30 [uuc] Can anyone recommend a local BMW mechanic in the Boston MA area? Re: [uuc] K&N Filters Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 Re: [uuc] K&N Filters ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 14:48:43 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [uuc] <e36><m3> Track Pads To: >I'm far from being the fastest driver in the world but my R4E's >usually last about 4-5 open track days with 1-2k street driving to and from >the track. The E in R4E being Endurance, they should last you an endurance race hopefully. :-) Carlos. (watched the crappola endurance race at the Glen, the semi-crappola Sears Pt. Nasticar race, and the less crappola-ish CART race). I'd rather watch the World Challenge races than all these put together... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 11:51:51 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Belt Tensioner secret Guys, Just replaced the regulator on an E32 this weekend since the fan and radiator were out for replacement. Now the belt is slipping. What's the secret to getting the idler/tensioner to tighten up that belt? It's tough to hold the tensioner with one hand while trying to tighten the bolt with another. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:00:30 -0400 From: "Luis Rueda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe Japanese track test of E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe (Skyline in Japan). http://web.njit.edu/~aslam/g35/g35zm3.mpg ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:07:11 -0400 From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: installing gauges in an E30 I was looking through the Parts CD, and I looked up the 99 M3 S52 engine and compared it to the Z3 S52 roadster engine. The part # for the oil filter canister/mount on the 99 S52 M3 Engine (11 42 1 738 639) is different than the oil filter canister/mount on the S52 on the Z3 roadster (11 42 1 406 653). The oil temp sender connects to the port on the Z3 S52, where the VANOS connected to on the M3 S52. I am not sure how the VANOS connects to the Z3 S52 engine though. Jesse - -----Original Message----- From: Andre Yew [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 1:30 PM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: installing gauges in an E30 On Fri, 20 Jun 2003, Chamberlain, Jesse wrote: > The oil pressure sender for the S52 engine (and M50/S50/M52 also) is located > right behind the oil filter canister, and screws into it. I believe that the > S54 engine might be similar, but I'm not sure about that. Jesse, Thanks for the information --- that's where I was going to put the pressure sender as well. I'm wondering where the oil temperature sensor goes in the S52 and 54 engines since there are oil temp gauges for cars with those engines. - --Andre ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:09:36 -0400 From: "Binder, Larry - Spine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Can anyone recommend a local BMW mechanic in the Boston MA area? I am looking for someone to inspect a vehicle (2002 330i) that I am interested in purchasing. Please respond to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and this address. Thanks, Larry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 14:14:40 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] K&N Filters "David Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I noticed the discussion on K&N, particularly Rob's comments on > stock filters. Sorry if this is an old thread. I'm catching up on old club emails after a vocation and had to comment on a few. > I had a dyno run done on my 95 M3 a few years ago after installing > a new Autothority chip. I got the before and after runs with the > chip, and the horse power gains were fairly close to the advertised > gains. After the chip was installed and the run completed, I had a > K&N filter set-up from AutoThority installed and made another pass > on the Dyno. The power and torque actually dropped. We put the > stock unit back on and tried a K&N filter, and the horsepower and > torque were not a good as the paper element. There was a gain when > we took the silencer out of the stock air box and used a new paper > filter. These are very weird results. I did something similar with JimC euroHFM chip, euro airbox (paper [1] and drop-in K&N [2]) and ECIS intake [3] (cone K&N). The performance difference between #1 and #2 were within DynoJet's margin of error (I can look them up if somebody is seriously interested). There was a statistically insignificant increase in either HP or Torque from 1->2. #3 resulted in a significant HP and Torque gain in the range of 5-10 units (again, numbers available upon request). As a result, I run euro airbox with paper filter in the winter (to save on wear and tear from the crap that K&N does not catch) and ECIS during the autoX/DE season. > I also have a good friend that tests filters for a living, and he > claims that the K&N allows harmful size particles through, Please define 'harmful size' particles. Where the measurements done on a newly oild K&N filter? Slightly cloged one? Why do I ask? Read this: http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com/dynocharts/intake/KN/kntest.pdf A paper filter also allows through particles of 'some size'... ;-) > and also the oil will cause a coating on the wire in the mass air > flow sensor. Hasn't happened yet. You do _not_ want to install a newly cleaned filter dripping with oil. That might effect the HFM. > This friend was on the project to develop the new filter used in the > Z06 Corvette, which he claims is very efficient and good flow and > cleaning. It is a foam filter. Jim C loves ITG foam filters. Do you know what it takes to clean them? Do you think coating HFM with kerosine would be better? YMMV, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:20:03 -0400 From: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 first of all it seems to me that this thread has outlived its usefulness. - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 1:17 PM Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 > "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Michael says > > > > > when there is traffic around I'm quite tame. the wheels are 16" > > > > Mille Miglia MM11-2 sports. very open 5 spoke design. the rotors > > > > are ATE powerslots front (cause I knew i'd have a pad gassing > > > > problem) and balo rotors rear (stock, non vented, non slotted, > > > > etc...). Calipers are stock, and pads are Metal Master's all > > > > around. (not the best pads for agressive stuff, so better pads > > > > would take the heat better, but that does little for the bias > > > > issue. and if I moved more bias to the rear on the stock rotor, > > > > it would become unhappy very quickly.) > > > > > > Not sure about that pad gassing issue or not as I think pad gassing > > > is largely not an issue for most.... > > > > pad gassing has always been an issue for street pads when I'm involved. > > Michael, > Please slow down and read Rich's and others advise. > Pad gassing, rotor/caliper side, brake upgrades and brake balance have > very little if anything to do with your reported problems. You are using > lousy cheap ass MM pads. Over pimped (sorry, slotted) rotors. Throw away > the MMs. Get a decent set of street and a decent set of track pads. Shelve > the brake upgrade day dreaming until after you had attended 3-5 DEs and > learnt to drive the car. > pad gassing is a problem at certain pad temps. with street pads those temps are relatively low. so the MM's are crap. I would tend to agree. but balance does have a lot to do with what I've said. I cook fronts before the rears get hot. this is with crappy pads, but equal pads front and rear. so *better* pads would be different how? thats right... *no difference*. also, I believe the original request was for info on better brake balance with perhaps more stopping power. (better balance lending itself to better stopping power that is). the "problem" being that my 3400 lb '89 525 is making over 300 hp... and has *stock* brakes which are beginning to seem inadequate (as well as having always felt too front biased). so it went from me asking for info on bettering the brake balance in my car, started out with some good recommendations and sources to look at, and it ended up with people telling me there is nothing wrong with my brakes, I need to learn how to drive, and the way I look at anything engineering related in terms of brakes is all wrong. > > I've faded autocross pads in a subdivision before. :oP > > No. > You may have faded cheap ass crappy MMs. > Get decent pads (at least PF R4S, PF R4 or Hawk HP+) and enjoy your brakes > as they are! > no, i've faded autocross pads. not the MM. whatever performance friction offered as the least agressive in their racing pad line (not street pad mind you). > > I'm also known to carry extra pints of brake fluid and bleeder bottles > > on my mountain trips. > > You may need to fix your brakes as well. > There is absolutely no reason why a properly functioning BMW brake system > will require anything other than annual (or pre-race event) brake > bleeding. > You should never ever have to top off the brake fluid. > I bleed them once they cool down after boiling the fluid. agressive driving in the mountains will do this sort of things. generally harder on brakes than even track days or the likes. less cooling air and just as much if not more energy being dumped into the brake system. brake fluid used was Castrol GT-LMA. fairly decent stuff. > > > Here is my recommendation after watching this thread over the past > > > few days. Get rid of the powerslot rotors and get your self some > > > regular rotors and ditch the Metal Masters. I guarantee...stress > > > ...guarantee you will get better performance from your brakes with > > > just about any pad but these. > > Amen to that! > my PF rep gave me a set of z rated pads. should I pass on these too, or will these be *decent* for street pads? > > different pads (and rotors) may yield better braking performance, but > > given the same compound front and rear again, I don't think it would > > do anything for brake balance. > > Michael, > There is nothing wrong with your brake balance. Let it go! > If you are adding brake fluid and bleeding brakes after a mountain drive, > you have leaks. Find and fix them. > If you fade cheap ass MMs at an autoX (actually, one can fade them after > one good 100->20mph stop), ditch them and get decent autoX pads. > threshold braking from 100 to stopped 2 or 3 times consecutively doesn't fade them. they aren't *that* horrible. nothing wrong with brake balance? how would you know? why do people want to argue with me over weather or not there is something to be changed in the brake balance to improve braking? what happened to the people that would say "if you want to change X, try Y." instead everyone argues. "why change X? there's nothing wrong with your X. maybe you should learn to drive instead." its getting to the point where I feel like i need to install my spare Pi system 2 in the car and run 4 non-contact temp sensors. get some brake temp data so I can go "<pointing to a piece of paper> look at this and shut up." I'm still pissed that I no longer have a full proper marelli setup on hand. wouldn't be stuck with only 4 channels of data. closest thing I have to data is most of the time I can't get near the front wheels, let alone the front brakes, after a run through the mountains. yet I can TOUCH the rear wheel (but not the rear brakes). rears are warm, but nowhere near as hot as the fronts. the other thing is that the fronts can disapate more heat faster than the rears. so a good bit more heat is gone from the fronts than the rears by the time I get out and look at them. they don't have to be the same temp, but much closer would be better. > > > Rich - thinks Metal Masters are junk, alone with their Deluxe brethren. > > Yep. > > > the metalmasters were recommended to me over the EBC's and the Pagid's. > > Do yourself a favor an find a new 'advisor'! > thats why I asked here this time. - -Michael McCoy > alex f > P.S.: All flavors of the EBC brake pad lineup are universally acknowledged > as 'total crap pads'. > P.P.S.: Pagid offers a very long menu of brake pads. Most of them are > above average in price and performance. Page is OEM for some BMW pads. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 12:40:42 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] K&N Filters At 12:14 PM 6/23/03, [EMAIL PROTECTED] talked about: >Jim C loves ITG foam filters. >Do you know what it takes to clean them? Soap and water. I use dish soap. Air dry and re-coat with the ITG oil in the spray can. Easy. >Do you think coating HFM with kerosine would be better? What's the kerosine for? Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - JimC/ITG filter, cleaned many times 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - ditto ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6500 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . 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