[uucdigest] Monday, June 23 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6501
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] E30 318i motor, M10, price drastically reduced... Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 RE: [uuc] K&N Filters [uuc] 944 Thougts Re: [uuc] Time to re-tire. [uuc] Re: E36 Control arm and bushing install: [uuc] Re: Replacement Brake Pistons [uuc] Re:Track Pads [uuc] E36 alignment [uuc] RE: Havoline Dexcool Re: [uuc] Re: E36 Control arm and bushing install: Re: [uuc] E36 alignment ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:57:07 -0400 From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 318i motor, M10, price drastically reduced... brand-new, rebuilt, early 318i motor. ITB legal, SpecE30 legal. i really want to get rid of this. the price is drastically reduced. starting bid is $500 with NO RESERVE, this is less than half of what the new parts cost for the rebuild! pics and more info here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2420810771 m. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 16:13:05 -0400 From: Michael Lawrence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Michael, > Please slow down and read Rich's and others advise. > Shelve > the brake upgrade day dreaming until after you had attended 3-5 DEs and > learnt to drive the car. I will vouch for Michael and his questions. He has had access to and driven alot of pretty damn cool machinery. He is not a rice kid with daydreams. In fact, he is the only guy I personally know that can go home and look at a real F1 car. Anybody else on the list have one in the family??? He is also the only person I know that had the ability and knowledge to take his only transportation, decide to turbocharge it from scratch, do it and have it work, make 300hp and do this in college, on a budget, in the dorm parking lot. Pretty Fnnn impressive if you ask me. I think he posted to this list trying to bounce ideas off of some of the knowledgeable folks, see if they had any experience, etc. On the other hand, I was there racing a car that had 2 of the larger aftermarket companies big brake kits, that were tried and true tested for a M3 blah blah blah. 1 didn't fit and the other went thru several changes before it worked. The race car turned out to be the guinea pig, haha. Wow, that was some great Fnnn engineering there. Sell a product with very little real world testing. I love to see someone like Michael, start from scratch, do alot of homework and real engineering, come up with a useable solution etc. Sometimes the best solutions are not sitting on a shelf to be had. Yea, he could go buy a UUC big brake kit, have a great braking system etc. But when I got out of college, I didn't have of excess funds laying around, so I went the cheaper route, did my own repairs, own upgrades etc, but not to the level Michael McCoy has. And back to his first issue at hand. A stock E34 DOES have too much front Bias for optimum braking performance. If you ever drive a stock E34 vs a E34 M5, you will feel it quite easily. The M cars have a higher rear bias for better braking and balance. Plus, how many have actually driven these cars without ABS, which hides the bias to a degree? I know I raced my E36 M3 without ABS, rear wheel locking was the constant problem, due to the rear bias. I had to change rear pads to a lower torque pad to help this. On a 325, it is the other way around, the fronts lock easily enough. I would give him some slack, if you know the answer or have something to add, do it, if not don't come down on him for trying to work it out on his own. That's how some of the best products come about you know. Mike Has raced Michael McCoy in karts, and lost!!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 16:17:04 -0400 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] K&N Filters Soap & water here too. I used to have a hard time getting it clean, then I figured out it just takes a LOT of soap. Much more than doing dishes. Chris B. Doesn't soap & oil his ITG often enough - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Bassett Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 3:41 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] K&N Filters At 12:14 PM 6/23/03, [EMAIL PROTECTED] talked about: >Jim C loves ITG foam filters. >Do you know what it takes to clean them? Soap and water. I use dish soap. Air dry and re-coat with the ITG oil in the spray can. Easy. >Do you think coating HFM with kerosine would be better? What's the kerosine for? Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - JimC/ITG filter, cleaned many times 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - ditto ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 13:25:23 -0700 From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 944 Thougts I previously owned a 944S and it was a terrific car. It does have a rather rare 16v head that will cost a lot to fix if you break the timing belt. Since everyone I knew had experienced a catastrophic timing belt failure at one time or another, I decided not to keep it. It was a little soft on torque but made up for it if you kept it spun up. Sort of like an E30 M3. More recently, I had the experience of seeing the result of a low mileage 944 lose its timing belt and ruin 6 of 8 valves requiring some pretty costly repairs. The normal 944 repair came to a little under $3 grand after the machine shop, R&R the head etc. The owner was too cheap to change the original water pump while he was in there so I imagine he will be back for more soon. Like every car with a timing belt, they are age as well as mileage dependent. So a car with 15k on it will need to have a lot of maintenance items replaced asap. $15k for the 1985 944 is way too much, especially since you are going to have to put a couple grand in it immediately to ensure that maintenance items are up to date. I would not recommend a 944S unless you have the type of tolerance that an E30 M3 owner has although I don't believe they are quite as expensive to maintain (unless you have a catastrophic head / timing belt failure). The 944 is great fun to drive and extremely well balanced and forgiving. I have no experience in the Turbo except getting scared near to death once when some other fool was driving. For the $6 - 7 grand, I would buy a good late E30 325is and go through it with the end result being a bullet-proof daily driver/track/autocross car. Just my .02 worth. Mike Holbrook Spring Valley, CA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 16:50:07 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Time to re-tire. Going from nearly bald tires to full tread tires is another variable. The S-03s have a very soft tread. Gary Derian > On Fri, 20 Jun 2003, Gary Derian wrote: > > I had a set of Conti Sport Contacts on my M5 and just replaced them with > > Bridgestone S-03's. I was expecting the S-03s to have quick response, etc. > > but I am disappointed. They are good, but a small step down from the > > Contis. I was very impressed with the Contis. They held up well even in > > severe track use. > > I had the same impression when I put on the S-03s after my Yokohama AVS > Sports wore out --- the S-03s felt softer, had less road feel, etc. But I > couldn't separate out the hardness of the AVS Sports caused by 20k miles > and 13 or 14 track days, so I wonder how much of that is due to the extra > NVH giving me the impression that the S-03s were softer. That is, if I > had compared new AVS Sports to new S-03s back to back, would I still have > felt the same way? > > --Andre > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 16:05:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E36 Control arm and bushing install: on 6/23/03 1:39 PM, jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > To get the bushings to pop onto the end of the control arm more easily, > _Freeze them solid, the colder the better. When as cold and solid as a > hockey puck they pop right on. > Also _freeze the control arms too. Heavily coat the contact surfaces > with silicone spray. I've found some variance in replacement E36 control arms. Some have a distinct tapered lead machined on the bushing journal end, others don't. With the lead it's not too hard to push on a well-lubed bushing, but without one it's damn' hard. Judicious use of a file helps. I wouldn't use silicone, as it doesn't dry out. A strong dish detergent/water mixture works well on rubber parts such as bushings. > Wrt the use of //M3 control arms rather than standard E36 or E30 units, > there is no difference in geometry. The //M arm has a harder longer > lasting ball joint. Currently I have one 95 //M arm and one regular E36 > arm on my car. When aligning I found no difference from when I had both > arms the same type. Not quite so. E30, non-M E36 and 3.0 M3 arms all have the same geometry. However the 3.2 M3 is slightly different, perhaps to compensate for its non-offset control arm bushing. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 16:05:51 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Replacement Brake Pistons on 6/23/03 12:39 PM, "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Does anyone know if you can purchase replacement brake pistons (say for E30 or > E36 models) separately, without the complete caliper? If so, where? Both Korman and Turner have, at various times, offered replacement stainless steel pistons. Otherwise BMW only lists complete caliper assemblies. Neil 96 M3 - Turner SS front brake pistons ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 17:10:57 -0400 From: bs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re:Track Pads I'll add my vote to the HT-10 or HT-14 over the Blues. Much more paint and rotor friendly, even when wet. I've just started running HT-14's up front, and so far the results are positive. Brian ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 17:45:14 -0400 From: "Hyun Jin O" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 alignment Hi all, I had my car taken to get an alignment done. They said that they needed to adjust the camber (currently reading -2degrees on the front right) by adjusting the outer tie rod. But they couldn't get the nut free. After some researching, it seems that the nut is a lock nut mainly to remove the tie rod which screws onto the inner tie rod. Please correct me if I'm wrong. There are marks on the inner tie rod, probably from a wrench that the alignment people were using. Now, it seems to me that the alignment cannot be done by merely loosening the lock nut on the tie rod. Does anyone have any further info on how to adjust the alignment? Please let me know. I didn't get the work done because they said that they were not able to get the nut to move. That sounds unbelieveable since it's only torqued down to ~37lb-ft according to the Bentley. Thanks for all the help. HJHJ BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter 1998 328IS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:38:42 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Havoline Dexcool Anyone hazard a guess as to why there appears to be a dearth of Havoline Dex Cool in a very limited sampling? This weekend I went looking for the Havoline product to replace that which was removed during a radiator replacement for an E32. I could not find the product anywhere. You name it, major retailers and minor there was none to be found. Ended up with the Prestone. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 18:15:12 -0500 From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: E36 Control arm and bushing install: Maybe I'm missing something in your technique here, but why freeze both? That just gets you back to where you started - for clearance you want the bushing smaller and/or the aperture in the arm bigger. (Most) things get smaller when they get colder. Freezing the bushing, heating the arm, or both would make sense. on 6/23/03 1:39 PM, jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>To get the bushings to pop onto the end of the control arm more easily, >>_Freeze them solid, the colder the better. When as cold and solid as a >>hockey puck they pop right on. >>Also _freeze the control arms too. Heavily coat the contact surfaces >>with silicone spray. >> >> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 20:48:16 -0400 From: Michael Lawrence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 alignment I would find another shop as there is NO adjustment of camber by the outer tie rod. Now on the other hand if they are talking about toe, then different story. Camber is only controlled by the strut hats, or top mounting bolt of the hub. Nothing else. Tie rod ends sometimes became frozen, in that case, if heat doesn't do it, just buy a new tie rod and replace it, not that expensive. Mike - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hyun Jin O" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 5:45 PM Subject: [uuc] E36 alignment > Hi all, > > I had my car taken to get an alignment done. They said that they needed > to adjust the camber (currently reading -2degrees on the front right) by > adjusting the outer tie rod. But they couldn't get the nut free. After > some researching, it seems that the nut is a lock nut mainly to remove > the tie rod which screws onto the inner tie rod. Please correct me if > I'm wrong. There are marks on the inner tie rod, probably from a wrench > that the alignment people were using. > > Now, it seems to me that the alignment cannot be done by merely > loosening the lock nut on the tie rod. Does anyone have any further > info on how to adjust the alignment? Please let me know. I didn't get > the work done because they said that they were not able to get the nut > to move. That sounds unbelieveable since it's only torqued down to > ~37lb-ft according to the Bentley. > > Thanks for all the help. > > HJHJ > BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter > 1998 328IS > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6501 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
