[uucdigest] Monday, June 23 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6502
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: E36 Alignment RE: [uuc] Stupid is... [uuc] RE: Stuck seat belt retractor RE: [uuc] E36 alignment [uuc] Cleaning filters RE: [uuc] RE: Stuck seat belt retractor [uuc] Need glass p/n for Euro headlights Re: [uuc] Thoughts on the 944 Re: [uuc] Re: E36 Control arm and bushing install: RE: [uuc] Re: E36 Control arm and bushing install: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 21:16:17 -0400 From: bs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E36 Alignment I had the same problem on my M3. I fought it with every tool (and solvent) I could get my hands on, and finally took it to the dealer to have the tie rod replaced. It was probably one of those jobs you wouldn't want to watch. I didn't. >Now, it seems to me that the alignment cannot be done by merely >loosening the lock nut on the tie rod. Does anyone have any further >info on how to adjust the alignment? Please let me know. I didn't get >the work done because they said that they were not able to get the nut >to move. That sounds unbelieveable since it's only torqued down to >~37lb-ft according to the Bentley. >Thanks for all the help. >HJHJ >BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter >1998 328IS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 21:25:44 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Stupid is... Yeah, I think our master Rob can relate to this story. Seems some tools that I lent one of the UUC staff members sat on the floor of his shop for some time, waiting for said staff member to come back from vacation, because it was addressed to said staff member.....Other side of the box was addressed to me....... Another, very short, round trip. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of BMWBITS > I had received some other BMW parts in a nice USPS Priority > Mail box .....so I re-used it for the filters ....but forgot to pull off > the label addressed to me on the other end from where I addressed the > filter destination .So the box took the short trip home !! Probably been > there two weeks ! Tell me ..just HOW 'DUH' can a guy be ?? > Bill & Shirley Proud, ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 21:34:43 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Stuck seat belt retractor Ok, no luck thus far... so, it may be off to the dealer to assess and repair the *#!*#%$ stuck belt. Does anyone know what the factory warranty period was back in the 2000 model year? Was it 3-year/xx,xxx miles, or 4-year (from date of in-service)? thx, - --Dennis - -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Liu [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 8:45 PM To: BMW List Subject: Stuck seat belt retractor Argh. A rear seat belt retractor on the wife's 2000 E-39 wagon is stuck. I pulled the belt all the way out to install a child seat, but now it won't retract at all. Doh. 1. What's the fix, aside from disassemblying the darn thing? 2. How do I prevent it from happening again? TIA, - --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 21:35:45 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 alignment Camber is not adjustable on the front of any E36. Toe is adjusted with the tie rods. Your tie rod is probably seized, BMW, and their dealer techs, refuse to use anti-seize on these parts, because then you have to buy new ones every time you want an alignment. Find a new alignment shop, as the one you're dealing with doesn't know what they're doing. Then, if need be, have them install new tie rod assemblies, but have them dismantle them and lube them with anti-seize before installing them on the car. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Hyun Jin O > I had my car taken to get an alignment done. They said that they needed > to adjust the camber (currently reading -2degrees on the front right) by > adjusting the outer tie rod. But they couldn't get the nut free. After > some researching, it seems that the nut is a lock nut mainly to remove > the tie rod which screws onto the inner tie rod. Please correct me if > I'm wrong. There are marks on the inner tie rod, probably from a wrench > that the alignment people were using. > > Now, it seems to me that the alignment cannot be done by merely > loosening the lock nut on the tie rod. Does anyone have any further > info on how to adjust the alignment? Please let me know. I didn't get > the work done because they said that they were not able to get the nut > to move. That sounds unbelievable since it's only torqued down to > ~37lb-ft according to the Bentley. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 18:46:48 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Cleaning filters As an alternative to dish soap, may I suggest Zep Citrus Cleaner available from Home Depot. It is in the cleaning section. It comes in a gallon container and you mix it with water in any strength you like. I have used it to clean the grime off my aluminum suspension components at a 25% mix, and it does a fantastic job. It also cleans pad dust off calipers very well. I used to use Dawn detergent, and this stuff puts Dawn into the kid sister ranks. My wife uses it to clean the kitchen counters, stove, cabinets, and floors, at a slightly weaker concentration. I have also fed it through my power washer to clean the siding on my house with fantastic results. The only foam air filter I own is on my lawn mower, and it cleaned that also. Personally, I wouldn't let a K&N filter in my garage, let alone in one of my cars. There is no up side to them, and many well documented downsides. I'm sure someone on this list has the URL for test conducted by Jim Conforti that thoroughly debunked the K&N. There are also well documented dyno tests (on a BMW motorcycle) that show no difference between a paper element and no element at all. That same real BMW also showed a significant power loss with the K&N. Cheers Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 21:45:50 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: Stuck seat belt retractor This vehicle is equipped with locking seat belts, specifically for use with child seats. It sounds like it may have suffered a glitch, as the seat belt is supposed to ratchet in, once pulled all the way out. The only way to get it to pull back out would be to let it retract all the way in. Yours appears to have got confused. 2000 year model has a 4 year, 50K mile warranty. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dennis Liu > Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 9:35 PM > Ok, no luck thus far... so, it may be off to the dealer to assess and > repair the *#!*#%$ stuck belt. > > Does anyone know what the factory warranty period was back in the > 2000 model > year? Was it 3-year/xx,xxx miles, or 4-year (from date of in-service)? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 23:08:07 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Need glass p/n for Euro headlights I saw a rock coming at me while on our illustrious Capital Beltway. I could do nothing but watch it hit the car. CRASH!!!! I was hoping it was just the fog light. But no. The left glass is smashed. Bulb housings are OK. Is this a part I can buy separately? It is for an E36. I understand BMP has them. Anyone have part numbers so I can get them locally. I might as well change the right side too. - -- ...steven 1996 328ti 2003 MCS Ofest caravan http://www.happytogether.com/unofficialofest ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 22:26:4 -0500 From: "M Kittock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Thoughts on the 944 I'll second the opinion that 15K is too much for a 944 NA, unless I suppose there is some history to the car that adds value - but I doubt that exists. I had a 944 turbo for 9 years, and loved the car. But several things to look for - water pump, motor mounts are primary ones. Also, I agree about looking at '86+ models - the new dash was a big improvement. And on '87+ models ABS was an option if thats important - also wheel offsets changed and these later models have more aftermarket wheel choices. Have him check out rennlist.com for more specific info. Mark Kittock '96 328i Sport Pkg; many mods '00 Durango '97 Contour SE (gone) '86 CRX Si (gone) '86 944 turbo (gone) > > Unless your brother was born in a 85 944, married in one and then had his > first child in a 85 944, there is no reason to ever spend that much on a > plain 944. Plus, they changed the dash in 85 1/2, you want the latter for > sure. > > Look around for a 86-87 944, plenty out there, same price range, sub 7k etc. > My roommate has a 87 944 and it is kinda fun to drive. plus it does get > about 30mpg on the highway. It is NOT a 16valve S model. But the 944S (16 > valve) lacked low end torque and didn't feel any faster due to that. > > They are relatively easy to keep running and not that expensive. But there > are some parts that can be, like door latches, locks, they are not identical > VW parts. > > With a set of good shocks, it is still one of the best handling cars out > there, and makes for a fun daily driver. I was also shocked with the ride > quality, not bad at all like I was expecting. > > If I were looking for a decent daily driver that was fun, it would either be > a 86-88 944, 94-95 325i/is or E30 325i in great shape. All return decent > gas mileage, with a few mods can be relatively quick and agile, plus easy to > work on. Also, the Gen II RX-7 was a great car, almost a twin to the 944. > Don't know what the used market looks like and I hardly ever see a clean RX7 > anymore, so I don't know how they hold up. But I bet they do exist and were > a blast to drive, great handling car. > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 2:13 PM > Subject: [uuc] Thoughts on the 944 > > > > Bless his soul, but my brother-in-law, lets call him Stu, wants to buy a > > car for better gas mileage and wants something "sporty" to boot - he is > > looking at a 1985 Porsche 944 (no turbo). His primary vehicle is a Disco > > and he has an old BMW motorcycle. > > > > Now the blue book is $6K, but this car was pampered and only has 15K miles > > (on a 1985 model). Garage kept, seat covers since new, etc. etc. The > > owners want $15K, the bank will only lend $6. First thought - $15K is > > ridiculous for a 1985 > > > > I'm not a big fan of the 944 family and I've heard some horror stories. > > They are a mess to fix if broken. The engine is in the front. Horsepower > > is similar to my fiance's 318 Ti. Granted a car with 15K miles should > > fair well over the years - I don't know about the 944. > > > > Any thoughts, suggestions, comments, etc.?? > > > > > > Phil > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 23:29:30 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: E36 Control arm and bushing install: Freezing rubber makes it harder and may let it distort less when pressing it on. Do not cool rubber below about -40 because it becomes glass like and will shatter. Some rubber can withstand -40 F, others are only good to -40C ;-). Gary Derian > Maybe I'm missing something in your technique here, but why freeze both? > That just gets you back to where you started - for clearance you want > the bushing smaller and/or the aperture in the arm bigger. (Most) things > get smaller when they get colder. Freezing the bushing, heating the arm, > or both would make sense. > > on 6/23/03 1:39 PM, jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >>To get the bushings to pop onto the end of the control arm more easily, > >>_Freeze them solid, the colder the better. When as cold and solid as a > >>hockey puck they pop right on. > >>Also _freeze the control arms too. Heavily coat the contact surfaces > >>with silicone spray. > >> > >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 23:48:58 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: E36 Control arm and bushing install: Thanks for that hint Gary, I'll be sure to turn my household freezer UP to something warmer than the -45C that I usually have it set to....... ;-) Brett Anderson KMS PS, I'm a big fan of physics, when building diffs, I put the cluster in front of the AC unit (or outside in the snow during winter) and the ring gear in the oven, for several hours before mating the two. Makes the job soooooo much easier. -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Derian > Freezing rubber makes it harder and may let it distort less when > pressing it > on. Do not cool rubber below about -40 because it becomes glass like and > will shatter. > > Some rubber can withstand -40 F, others are only good to -40C ;-). > > Gary Derian ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6502 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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