[uucdigest]         Wednesday, June 25 2003         Volume 03 : Number 6506



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe
       [uuc] re: Silicon or not,  was bushings:
       [uuc] Cleaning filters
       [uuc] Pre-purchase inspection shop in Palm Springs / Palm Desert?
       [uuc] RE: WOT: freezing Cold
       Re: re:[uuc] E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe
       [uuc] freezing bearings
       Re: [uuc] re: Silicon or not,  was bushings:
       RE: [uuc] re: why freeze the bushing? was E36 bushing install
       Re: [uuc] E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe
       Re: [uuc] Re: Brake upgrades for E34 525
       Re: [uuc] Re: Brake upgrades for E34 525
       [uuc] Repost: For Sale 1997 328i Website
       RE: [uuc] why freeze the bushing? was E36 bushing install

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 14:07:08 -0400
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe

Scott Brown wrote:

> I cannot get this link to come up.  Anyone else successful with it?  What
> did it state or show?

it's a typical Japanese TV show where they stage the cars on the grid at the
track for a "battle".  I'm not sure what formula they use to stage them, but
it's G35, 350Z, M3 at the start.  the finishing order is either reversed or
the
M3 just passes them both, I forget.  the lap times they show at the end have
the M3 as being 2+ seconds faster than the other two which is no surprise.

there is really no comparison between the Nissans & the M3, unless you
start to get into silly "what if" scenarios when you mod the hell out of the

Nissans in an attempt to spend the $60k that the M3 will likely cost.


Ben
waiting on the 4 door which is faster than all of the above & cheaper
as well.  ~a month to go....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 11:14:05 -0700
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] re: Silicon or not,  was bushings:

re: Silicon or not,  was bushings:

     Seems we have two schools of thought here about silicon lube before 
installing bushings.
It is the tension that the rubber squeezes against the metal that keeps 
the bushing in place.
It is important that any lube used not react with the rubber over time. 
 Silicon is inert in that regard.
Various soaps may have ingredients that will react with and degrade the 
rubber, making it softer and less cohesive.
Trapping water against the metal shaft can promote surface oxidation 
which will both wear off and abrade the rubber, resulting once again, in 
less contact pressure between the bushing and the metal.
A softer rubber contact surface will have less friction, thus more 
likely to slip as the control arm tries to rotate in the bushing hole.
While inserting through an unlubricated surface can cause abrasion of 
the contact surfaces.  These little tears can deteriorate and tear 
further under pressure over time.

     In the past, I recall some sort of 'officially recommended' factory 
lubricant to coat bushings with while installing them.  Would someone 
with access to possibly a 70's era factory manual or parts listings like 
to look that up?  I imagine someone no longer with us would have known 
the answer right away and probably stocked the item too.

In any case if what you do works for you and doesn't cause other 
problems along the way, do it.
ymmv,

'jk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 14:39:32 -0400
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Cleaning filters

> When Jim C first started advocating ITG foam filters, his recommended 
> cleaning method was kerosine baths.

Correct.

> Is dish soap a desirable or merely a convenient substitute?

It is the recommended method by many including JC/Eurosport which superseded the prior 
kerosene method.

> This statement is completely bogus. Any filter will flow worse than no 
> filter at all. The more it filters, the worse it will flow (duah).

Not necessarily, just because a filter is in place, doesn't mean flow will be worse as 
a properly designed filter could possibly funnel the air better.  And, filtering 
efficiency isn't a direct relationship with flow.  Michael already posted a comment 
about the potential capacity of BMW intakes which I would have also stated.

Any of the air flow engineers can correct me but that has been my understanding.

Regards,

Rich - uses ITG filters for a few reasons although I believe it is tough to beat the 
flow and filtering efficiency of stock paper elements.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 14:39:20 -0400
From: Dave Bell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Pre-purchase inspection shop in Palm Springs / Palm Desert?

Hi all,

I need a recommendation for a place to do a pre-purchase inspection in the Palm 
Springs / Palm Desert area.  

Many thanks in advance.

Dave Bell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 13:51:11 -0500
From: "Tolsdorf, Geoffrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: WOT: freezing Cold

And here's something to think about when you are cruising in your BMW
(OBMWC), there is no such thing as cold, only an absence of heat.

/lurk

Geoff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 12:25:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: re:[uuc] E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe

There's a translation of the dialogue here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31126

I like how they really did heel-toe (using the heel and toe, instead of
left-side right-side) downshifting in the 350Z.

- --Andre

On Tue, 24 Jun 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> It was an automotive review clip running a video in a media player window with an 
> announcer speaking
> in Japanese.  
> 
> Wait for Autoweek to do it's comparo.
> 
> 
> > 
> > I cannot get this link to come up.  Anyone else successful with it?  What 
> > did it state or show?
> > 
> > Thanks,
>  
> 
> Marc Plante
> E36 325i, 210k
> Vienna, VA
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 10:58:43 -0500
From: "Donna and Terry Cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] freezing bearings

Here in my part of Texas if we want to do the cold part-hot part thing we
leave one part in the shade and one part out in the sun.  You have to use
gloves with both the cool and hot parts, but the temperature differential is
enough to slide the hotter part over the cooler one.  I'm confused about
leaving parts out in the "snow".  Is that a really cold stuff like ice
cubes?  My refrigerator makes those.

Leisure Suit Terry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 16:42:19 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] re: Silicon or not,  was bushings:

After the bushing is installed, and aligned such that there is no twist when
the vehicle is on the ground, the bushing should no longer slip on the
control arm.  Any slippage there will wear the bushing.

Soap, water, or even kerosene are suitable lubricants.  Silicone will remain
slippery and may allow the bushing to slip on the control arm.  This is not
a catastrophic problem, but it should be avoided if possible.

Gary Derian


> re: Silicon or not,  was bushings:
>
>      Seems we have two schools of thought here about silicon lube before
> installing bushings.
> It is the tension that the rubber squeezes against the metal that keeps
> the bushing in place.
> It is important that any lube used not react with the rubber over time.
>  Silicon is inert in that regard.
> Various soaps may have ingredients that will react with and degrade the
> rubber, making it softer and less cohesive.
> Trapping water against the metal shaft can promote surface oxidation
> which will both wear off and abrade the rubber, resulting once again, in
> less contact pressure between the bushing and the metal.
> A softer rubber contact surface will have less friction, thus more
> likely to slip as the control arm tries to rotate in the bushing hole.
> While inserting through an unlubricated surface can cause abrasion of
> the contact surfaces.  These little tears can deteriorate and tear
> further under pressure over time.
>
>      In the past, I recall some sort of 'officially recommended' factory
> lubricant to coat bushings with while installing them.  Would someone
> with access to possibly a 70's era factory manual or parts listings like
> to look that up?  I imagine someone no longer with us would have known
> the answer right away and probably stocked the item too.
>
> In any case if what you do works for you and doesn't cause other
> problems along the way, do it.
> ymmv,
>
> 'jk
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:18:11 -0400
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] re: why freeze the bushing? was E36 bushing install

Regardless of anything else, wouldn't freezing the arm make it shrink
slightly, easing the press fit?  Or is the change in physical size not
what's facilitating the easier press?

Chris B.

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sean Cordone
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:35 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] re: why freeze the bushing? was E36 bushing install


No, look again, the question wasn't "why freeze the bushing?".  It's
freezing the arm that doesn't make sense. To ease a press fit you want a
big temperature difference. Cooling both doesn't make sense.

jkerouac wrote:

> re: why freeze the bushing? was E36 bushing install:
>
>     By freezing the bushing, it becomes harder and less flexible.
> Thus more slippery.  Same as a normal compound car tire on frozen
> roads. Less friction so the rubber slips easier.  Also if you think
> about it, the hole in the middle gets slightly larger since it is the
> ring of rubber that contracts about the circular geometric center of
> it donut shape.
>     By freezing the arm, the metal shrinks slightly.  Also by starting
> colder, it will warm the rubber on the bushing on contact slower, thus
> giving more time to pop the bushing on before the bushing rubber gets
> warmer and stickier.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 18:07:49 -0400
From: Michael Lawrence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E46 M3 vs 350Z vs G35 Coupe

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ben keyes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Ben
> waiting on the 4 door which is faster than all of the above & cheaper
> as well.  ~a month to go....

True, good looks do come at a price, bwahhaha  

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 23:30:54 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Brake upgrades for E34 525

>Even after everything bedded in and things settled down, there's a
definite >increase in rear bias from previously.  I've grown to like it and
look >forward to what it does at the track.

I'm sure not all E30s are equal but I get too much braking from the rear on
my E30 M3 on the track.  I've biased my pads.  For the 3rd event in a row
now my rear wheel weights have come off and they're taped on (3M metal
tape) as well as whatever glue comes on the weights, on two different sets
of wheels.  I'm going to trim (I don't want to cut them off completely) the
backing plates to get more cooling to my rear brakes, it's getting annoying
to rebalance my rear wheels after every event.

Carlos
91 M3
88 iS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 23:52:35 -0400
From: Michael Lawrence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Brake upgrades for E34 525

An E30 M3 can go fast enough to heat up the rear brakes?

hmm

Maybe its not going fast enough to have much weight transfer therefore over
heating the rears?

Mike
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Brake upgrades for E34 525


> >Even after everything bedded in and things settled down, there's a
> definite >increase in rear bias from previously.  I've grown to like it
and
> look >forward to what it does at the track.
>
> I'm sure not all E30s are equal but I get too much braking from the rear
on
> my E30 M3 on the track.  I've biased my pads.  For the 3rd event in a row
> now my rear wheel weights have come off and they're taped on (3M metal
> tape) as well as whatever glue comes on the weights, on two different sets
> of wheels.  I'm going to trim (I don't want to cut them off completely)
the
> backing plates to get more cooling to my rear brakes, it's getting
annoying
> to rebalance my rear wheels after every event.
>
> Carlos
> 91 M3
> 88 iS
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 04:39:40 -0500
From: "Randy Reeves" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Repost: For Sale 1997 328i Website

I have a website up that has pictures and details of the 1997 328i I have 
for sale near Dallas, Texas.  I need to make room for my recently purchased 
E39!

http://bimrman.tripod.com

Thanks,
Randy

_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:13:12 -0400
From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] why freeze the bushing? was E36 bushing install

There is a very old product called "Green Soap".  You can buy it from the
drug store usually.  It is a pure soap and has been used for many years to
lubricate the rubber bands used as motors in model airplanes.  it is non
harming to rubber.  There is also a product called "tincture of green soap",
basically green soap and alcohol.  This may work better as it is not as
thick and may evaporate in a more timely manor.

David

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dorffer, Rich
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:25 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] why freeze the bushing? was E36 bushing install


> I prefer since silicon lube is what's provided for other rubber to
> metal assemblies on the car, such as brake hydraulic rebuild kits.  Also
> it was recommended to my by wise old sages years ago and I've been using
> it since then w/o problems.  Silicon spray or grease is inert against
> rubber.  If soap and water works for others, that's freedom of
> modification.  Why I avoid it is the idea of the rubber to metal contact
> surface is that the bushing rubber stays in firm contact with the
> control arm metal due to pressure of the compressed rubber on the arm's
> round metal surface.  With soap and water, no guarantee the soap won't
> react with the rubber.  The rubber will stick to the metal once the soap
> residue washes out.  That can make subsequent removal much more
> difficult. (How do I know?)  This sticking behavior is more easily seen
> when trying to press out, for instance, 2002 to E30 rear trailing arm
> bushings.

This is all very well and good but BMW designed the control arm bushing
rubber to "stick" or adhere to the control arm, the control arm isn't
supposed to spin freely or move within the bushing.

A wise, not-so-old, BMW sage educated me on this one.

I installed my solid E30 M3 bushings quite easily on my control arms without
any special technique aside from water (no soap or other lubricants) and the
BMW control arm bushing tool.

Regards,

Rich

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6506
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