[uucdigest] Sunday, June 29 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6518
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: AC Service Questions [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6517 [uuc] Admin: Attention [uuc] Re: E36 M3 door lock problem [uuc] IS/T2 cooling system and misc [uuc] RE: IS/T2 cooling system and misc RE: [uuc] IS/T2 cooling system and misc ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 19:58:50 -0700 (PDT) From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: AC Service Questions Brett Anderson wrote: > By the start of 1994 year model production, all BMWs > were definitely R134a. > I can't recall now, if it was even earlier than > that. My 12/92 build '93 325is has R134a... ===== David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 00:29:22 -0500 From: "Larry T" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6517 Brett, Thanks very much for the reply. Talk about informative! I just bought a set of new speakers for the front doors, so when I take the door apart, I'll be sure to replace the actuator. Thanks again to the list. Larry >Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 00:32:22 -0400 >From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 M3 door lock problem > >It's still a good suggestion HJ. You are correct, the car has a bad >actuator. > >Larry, the door lock actuator in passenger door is bad. The actuator's >motor is still working, which is why you can lock and unlock from the other >locations. > >However, the E36 actuator is mounted directly to the lock assembly, and as >a >result, there are no microswitches on the lock cylinder, to report >lock/unlock. > >Instead, when you turn the key, it physically moves the actuator, which >"sees" this movement and reports it to the General Module. The GM then >tells the other locks that they should lock, or unlock, as the case may be. > >The monitoring switches inside your actuator have gone bad. The fix is to >replace the actuator, which can be a real pain in the arse, but is not >impossible. > >Brett Anderson >KMS _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 16:39:59 -0400 From: UUC Admin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Admin: Attention This is directed at the member of the list with machine named DHWYCV11 connected to a Bellsouth DSL account in Miami, FL. I need you to contact me off list ASAP. Thanks, Michael K Donohue System Administrator UUC Digest http://www.uucdigest.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 15:51:51 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E36 M3 door lock problem on 6/26/03 8:43 PM, "Larry T" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Got an interesting > question. Ever since i bought my car (98 m3 coupe), I'm unable to > lock/unlock the car from the passenger door. There is no keyless entry, and > it works perfectly from the driver's door, and trunk. Any suggestions? > Thanks! > Larry on 6/28/03 8:24 PM, "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> replied: > Larry, the door lock actuator in passenger door is bad. The actuator's > motor is still working, which is why you can lock and unlock from the other > locations. > > However, the E36 actuator is mounted directly to the lock assembly, and as a > result, there are no microswitches on the lock cylinder, to report > lock/unlock. > > Instead, when you turn the key, it physically moves the actuator, which > "sees" this movement and reports it to the General Module. The GM then > tells the other locks that they should lock, or unlock, as the case may be. > > The monitoring switches inside your actuator have gone bad. The fix is to > replace the actuator, which can be a real pain in the arse, but is not > impossible. > > Brett Anderson > KMS Brett's right: it's a PITA to do. I replaced my actuator a year or two back. Here's are some hints I wrote up for someone else afterward. Neil 96 M3 - ----------- This is a very doable job, although it may well take you 2 or 3 hours. But I guarantee that you could do a second one in 45 minutes or less, it's that kind of project. Fixed it myself. It was the power actuator inside the door that had failed, P/N 67 11 1 387 726 for which I paid $45.80 (mail order discounted) from The BMW Store in Cincinnati. You follow Bentley instructions to take off the door's inside door hardware and handle. Then un-snap the door panel, pulling it free of the plastic snaps one by one, using a screwdriver or small pry-bar under the edge of the panel. I bought extra snaps just in case, but didn't break any. Carefully peel off the plastic vapour barrier and save for re-use. It's held in place by gooey mastic. The electric actuator is up by the lock, partially hidden behind the door's sheet metal. You don't have to remove anything to do with the outside door handle or key lock. The actuator snaps into place. It's very hard to get out for a number of reasons. Here's how I remember it: Firstly it's generally a very tight fit and hard to work on. Second there's the wiring harness connector which has a well-concealed secret latching mechanism which slides in a direction perpendicular to the connector/pins. It's an outer sliding sleeve which locks the wiring harness connector to the actuator body. Once you figure out which is the part that moves you'll be able to gradually slide the latch, work the connector a little loose, slide the latch some more, etc. Next you unsnap the actuator from the rest of the lock mechanism. Looking on the body of your new actuator you'll see how it snaps in place. Then you have to detach the locking rod, which isn't easy. You have to wiggle it to get just the right angle so that its end comes out of the keyhole slot in which it engages. It helps to use a small flashlight and maybe even an inspection mirror to see inside the door. Finally the actuator itself has to be wiggled out of place. It seems as if you'll have to remove some other obstructing parts, but in fact if the angle is just right it'll come out. Trust me. Re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Don't forget to reattach the door lock button rod. It wasn't a fun job, but I'm pretty sure it would have cost $200 at least at the dealer. Although the Bentley manual is damn near p*ss-useless on this, it's marginally better than nothing. Plan on having a plentiful supply of curse words handy. Keep reminding yourself of how much money you're saving. Of course I could do the job much more quickly now... Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 13:53:52 -0700 From: Donn Vickrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] IS/T2 cooling system and misc I got the IS/T2 car out for the first test and tune last night and, for the most part, it went fine. The only trouble I had was with the water temps. In each session, the temp gauge read much higher than I was comfortable with and I ended up having to either back off for a few laps or come in early. I'd like to do the following before the first race (which won't be until Sept.). I also have several questions though for other racers out there. 1. Replace the thermostat - Do you guys run a lower (than stock) temp thermostat? 2. Possibly replace the water pump - I hear the original pumps had a plastic impellar that is prone to failure. Not sure if this is an issue on 98s. Also, can anyone tell me how to identify whether or not I have the original pump? 3. Pressure test system, replace all the hoses 4. Coolant... I have usually run water with Water Wetter and no glycol. What do other racers run in their M-cars? Do you run the factory coolant? With Watter Wetter? I also have one other question about the intake for IS/T2. Can we run ducting from the front spoiler to the cold air intake? (I have the Comforti intake.) Lastly, re: an older thread on brake pads. The Hawk Blues were excellent in the M3. Very good pedal feel, never faded. So, I guess my experiences with the Spec RX7 were simply not relevant to the M3. Thanks in advance. Donn Vickrey Scottsdale, AZ 98 IS/T2 M3 race car 02 996TT daily driver 03 Navigator tow vehicle and tot hauler ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 13:56:07 -0700 From: Donn Vickrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: IS/T2 cooling system and misc Sorry for the duplicate post. The original post lost all formatting. This one should be easier to read! - --------------------- I got the IS/T2 car out for the first test and tune last night and, for the most part, it went fine. The only trouble I had was with the water temps. In each session, the temp gauge read much higher than I was comfortable with and I ended up having to either back off for a few laps or come in early. I'd like to do the following before the first race (which won't be until Sept.). I also have several questions though for other racers out there. 1. Replace the thermostat - Do you guys run a lower (than stock) temp thermostat? 2. Possibly replace the water pump - I hear the original pumps had a plastic impellar that is prone to failure. Not sure if this is an issue on 98s. Also, can anyone tell me how to identify whether or not I have the original pump? 3. Pressure test system, replace all the hoses 4. Coolant... I have usually run water with Water Wetter and no glycol. What do other racers run in their M-cars? Do you run the factory coolant? With Watter Wetter? I also have one other question about the intake for IS/T2. Can we run ducting from the front spoiler to the cold air intake? (I have the Comforti intake.) Lastly, re: an older thread on brake pads. The Hawk Blues were excellent in the M3. Very good pedal feel, never faded. So, I guess my experiences with the Spec RX7 were simply not relevant to the M3. Thanks in advance. Donn Vickrey Scottsdale, AZ 98 IS/T2 M3 race car 02 996TT daily driver 03 Navigator tow vehicle and tot hauler ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 17:39:05 -0400 From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] IS/T2 cooling system and misc Hi Donn, I have been running fine temps in hot weather with NO cooling fans (fan clutch mechanical OR electric) so I have a feeling that you are having pressure or air issues. I'm using water with water wetter. You should NOT use coolant if you are racing - it's not allowed anyway on most tracks and if you bust a hose and spill coolant on the track either you or someone else will be in the wall as a result. Some thoughts about your questions: >1. Replace the thermostat - Do you guys run a lower (than stock) temp >thermostat? I run the stock thermostat... >2. Possibly replace the water pump - I hear the original pumps had a plastic >impellar that is prone to failure. Not sure if this is an issue on 98s. >Also, can anyone tell me how to identify whether or not I have the original >pump? If you don't KNOW that it was done, DO IT. It's cheap and easy to do. Since you're going to bleed the system anyway, drain the whole system and then do the water pump. Make sure you have a bucket under the engine because you'll drop a lot of water or coolant on the garage floor when you open it up. >3. Pressure test system, replace all the hoses Unless you have a leak, it's probably not necessary. Just make sure you bleed the system well. >4. Coolant... I have usually run water with Water Wetter and no glycol. >What do other racers run in their M-cars? Do you run the factory coolant? >With Watter Wetter? Already answered. >I also have one other question about the intake for IS/T2. Can we run >ducting from the front spoiler to the cold air intake? (I have the Comforti >intake.) Neither BMW club or SCCA will let you remove a headlight in your class. BMW club will let you duct from a fog light hole but SCCA explicitly will not in T2. Here's the BMWCCA rule: STOCK CLASSES 7. Body/Chassis/Interior C. Ducting of air to rotors/engine - fog lights/covers may be removed to facilitate ducting of air to brake rotors/engine. (note that headlights are allowed to be removed in modified class only) Here's the SCCA GCR verbiage: 8.Body/Structure a.Configuration/Modifications 4.Lights and Lenses b.Fog/driving lights mounted on or below the bumper shall be removed,and all resulting holes shall be covered to prevent air passage through said holes. Hope this helps! - -Mike 97 M3 IP/ITE #121 - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Donn Vickrey Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 4:54 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] IS/T2 cooling system and misc I got the IS/T2 car out for the first test and tune last night and, for the most part, it went fine. The only trouble I had was with the water temps. In each session, the temp gauge read much higher than I was comfortable with and I ended up having to either back off for a few laps or come in early. I'd like to do the following before the first race (which won't be until Sept.). I also have several questions though for other racers out there. 1. Replace the thermostat - Do you guys run a lower (than stock) temp thermostat? 2. Possibly replace the water pump - I hear the original pumps had a plastic impellar that is prone to failure. Not sure if this is an issue on 98s. Also, can anyone tell me how to identify whether or not I have the original pump? 3. Pressure test system, replace all the hoses 4. Coolant... I have usually run water with Water Wetter and no glycol. What do other racers run in their M-cars? Do you run the factory coolant? With Watter Wetter? I also have one other question about the intake for IS/T2. Can we run ducting from the front spoiler to the cold air intake? (I have the Comforti intake.) Lastly, re: an older thread on brake pads. The Hawk Blues were excellent in the M3. Very good pedal feel, never faded. So, I guess my experiences with the Spec RX7 were simply not relevant to the M3. Thanks in advance. Donn Vickrey Scottsdale, AZ 98 IS/T2 M3 race car 02 996TT daily driver 03 Navigator tow vehicle and tot hauler ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6518 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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