[uucdigest] Monday, July 7 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6545
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] SRS questions [uuc] E30 M3 Parts For Sale [uuc] Monterey Historics [uuc] Re: SRS questions [uuc] question about oil viscosity Re: [uuc] question about oil viscosity [uuc] E34 6 Speed [uuc] success installing RTABs and UUC clutch pedal bushings Re: [uuc] <OT> How Do I Use This Sound Level Meter? [uuc] Euro Rice in Germany! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 18:11:49 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] SRS questions BMW uses two different impact thresholds for bag deployment, if you're unbelted, the bag on that seat will deploy at a lesser impact than it would if you were belted. As for the occupancy detector, if it's bad, the passenger bag will deploy in an accident if the drivers bag deploys. The detector is to save the bag if no one is sitting in the seat. As the system can no longer detect a passenger, it defaults to the safe side and fires the bag. If the light stays on constantly, or flashes, then there is a potential of the bag not firing. Both the faults you ask about will cause the light to come on for approximately 2 minutes, then go out. Even when the light is on, in this scenario, the system is fully active. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steven Schlossman > Take a late model E36 for argument sake. > There is a passenger mat sensor and a switch in the seat belt. > If either is at fault you get a SRS fault. > Will the passenger airbag deploy if called upon? > What about a bad seat belt switch on the driver's side? > Will the steering wheel airbag work? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 15:17:05 -0700 From: Jason Briedis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 M3 Parts For Sale E30 M3 Stuff For Sale. Add $5 for shipping except for the diff cover and tranny cover which is $10. I only except Paypal for these items. 1) Stock Diff cover with bolts and new drain plugs. Bushing looks ok. Used. $25 2) Front Bumper Cover Brackets. The black plastic ones that go on each side. (51-11-1-940-378) Brand new. $25 3) Transmission Support Cover. (The half moon piece right in front of the tranny itself. $30 4) Stock tow hook cover. The black one with the ribs on it. Brand new. (51-11-2-230-202) $10 5) Turner Motorsport Ship for the 2.5 Liter motor. The one for the normal afm and injectors. $165 6) Distriutor Cap Cover (The black cover with 3 screws) used. $10 7) Set of Front calipers. Need rebuild. $100 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 17:15:00 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Monterey Historics Kevin Kelly asks...Are any other list members going to be in Monterey next month? This one is. We will be attending the dinner Friday night, as well as the track Sat. and Sun. Boris Said and Tom Millner are two of the guest speakers at dinner, and I have heard rumors that the primary designer of the Z4 will also be there, his name I cant recall at the moment. The dinner is the best event of the weekend IMHO. Cheers Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 08:29:40 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: SRS questions on 7/6/03 4:16 PM, Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Take a late model E36 for argument sake. > There is a passenger mat sensor and a switch in the seat belt. > If either is at fault you get a SRS fault. > > Will the passenger airbag deploy if called upon? > What about a bad seat belt switch on the driver's side? > Will the steering wheel airbag work? At least on my '96 E36 M3, if the latch switch is defective the airbags will deploy, but at a lower impact threshold. The system assumes that since the switch shows the seatbelts not fastened, then more protection is required - i.e. fail safe. Don't know what happens if the seat occupancy sensor doesn't work. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:36:04 -0400 From: "Crawford, Scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] question about oil viscosity Hey, I have a question concerning BMW's recommended oil viscosities in their old (1989), high-milieage (185,000) engines. This time of year, the recommendation is for a 15-50 oil, fairly thick. I had a brain fart and let my laziness take over and put in 5-30, noticeably thinner than the 15-50. My thinking was there's no difference for the driving I do, 50 mile round trip commute on the highway, very little stop and go. The question is...does it matter that I put in too light an oil for the season? Is there a risk that I hurt my car? Thanks for your help. Scott Crawford '89 325is, slightly wounded? Moses Cone Health System Greensboro, North Carolina 27401 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 11:03:56 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] question about oil viscosity BMW synthetic is 5W-30 for all but certain ///M engines. Synthetic has better film strength for a given viscosity so if your oil is synthetic, then you will be fine. Even if it is not, you should be OK, but thicker oil is preferred. An oil with a 15W or 20W rating is far better for engine protection than thinner oil. My preferred conventional oil is 15W-40 for diesel engines. My current daily driver has 220K miles, perfect compression, and the PO had used normal 10W-30 oil from Jiffy Lube for its whole life. It can't be that bad. Gary Derian > Hey, > > I have a question concerning BMW's recommended oil viscosities in their old > (1989), high-milieage (185,000) engines. This time of year, the > recommendation is for a 15-50 oil, fairly thick. I had a brain fart and let > my laziness take over and put in 5-30, noticeably thinner than the 15-50. > My thinking was there's no difference for the driving I do, 50 mile round > trip commute on the highway, very little stop and go. > > The question is...does it matter that I put in too light an oil for the > season? Is there a risk that I hurt my car? > > Thanks for your help. > > Scott Crawford > '89 325is, slightly wounded? > > Moses Cone Health System > Greensboro, North Carolina 27401 > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 11:20:31 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E34 6 Speed > All you're doing is replacing the trans, drive shaft, and a couple of > shifter parts. A quick re-check of the parts cost puts it at $5400. Add > about $600 labour and you're at $6K. Still too much to pay *just* for an > extra couple of mile to the gallon, but..... there's always the *cool* > factor. Hmm.... maybe it should be "Koola Motorsport" then since you are in the business of "Cool". Regards, Rich 95 M3 - spent time recently at Koala Motorsport getting some "cool" exhaust work done along with an E34 M5 clutch/8.5 lb UUC flywheel... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:47:32 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] success installing RTABs and UUC clutch pedal bushings Folks, Thanks to everyone who had identified the clutch pedal bushings as the source of my clutch squeak: Jon, Chester Wong, Zack Steinkamp, Chris Newman, Steve Tymoszuk, Malcolm Reitz, Jim Och, Chris Teague, Mark Cecil, Kit Wetzler, Brian Kearney, Khoi, Matthew Smith and Martin Bullen. Every one of you told me to buy and install the UUC bushings. A local DFW UUC dealer had one in stock and I had added the clutch bushings swap to my weekend to-do list. Working in the cramped foot well is a bit tricky, but the outcome is blissful silence every time I press the clutch pedal. I think the whol job took about 1.5 hours with numerous back stretching breaks. My RTAB (Rear Trailing Arm Bushing) swap went much easier than expected. I took my time on the first one than discovered that my '95 M3 had '96+ style RTABs with side skirts that need to be removed before you can use the VictoryProductDesign tool to pull out the old bushings. After 5 minutes of hack sawing, I went out and bought a SawzAll at a nearby Home Depot. I don't know how lived without it all those years! Things went much quicker from there on with the second side taking around 30 minutes. After some research and emails with PowerFlex and some other Urethane bushing owners (one too many of whom related tails premature failure), I decided to go with BMW RTABs reinforced by GC washers. I purchased all my RTABs from one of the mail order BMW dealers (forgot which one). I held both '95 (symmetric) and '96+ RTABs (with a largely decorative skirt on the outside of the bushing) in my hand before deciding to go with '95 ones. IMHO, all the internet bru-ha-ha about the desirability of '96 versions is crap. The symmetric '95 RTABs will take 10 minutes to remove the next time around. That's starting with the wheel on the ground. GC reinforcements were an impossibly tight fit. I had to file 1 mm off the side of the inner RTAB sleeve to make them fit into the bracket with the GC reinforcements. Brad, there is only one way to shove the RTABs into the trailing arm aiming for the centerline of the car from the outside (skirt facing outboard if you have it). The '96+ RTAB skirts' cut-outs were positioned at 12 and 6 o'clock on my old RTABs. I'm pretty sure the cut outs are there to accommodate the BMW RTAB removal tool. I would have installed the new ones the same way if it came to that, but I could not see any engineering necessity to do that. I had also swapped the lower rear control arms (bent from a dyno day) and that took much longer than the RTABs. You need to jack the rear differential way into the floor of the car to remove the bolts holding the arms to the diff carrier. To get access to the two horizontal rear diff mounts you need to remove the rear sway bar. Than get parts to align and bolt-up. Everything is a very tight fit. The trailing arm does move a lot more freely and tilts all the way to the floor (easier to work on ) with the lower control arm disconnected. But it's not really necessary and you do need to re-align the car afterwards. I had marked the original RTAB bracket position that controls the rear wheel toe before I removing them. When reassembling, I installed them back in the original position and set both rear control arms for max negative camber. Surprisingly, the car now tracks perfectly straight! I will still take it for an alignment before too much longer (I'm pretty sure I have way too much negative camber in the rear). I also replaced the rear shocks (the shock piston on one of my Koni SAs had broken in half). That hardly took 30 minutes for both thanks to GC RSMs. <rant mode on> E46 RSMs are crap just like the E30 convertible RSMs that carried the cult status in internet circles before them. I had long ago switched to GC RSMs and they had already served me longer than any of the BMW RSMs that had preceded them on 4 other bimmers. GC RSMs are better in many ways, not least of which is the ability to remove the shock from the inside of the wheel well (no more pulling the trunk carpeting). </rant mode on> - -- alex f P.S.: If there was one thing I would have done different, it would be pressure washing the underside of the car! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:59:04 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] <OT> How Do I Use This Sound Level Meter? Hi Brad (and I really mean that), I'm not sure what the problem is with the use of parentheses (but then, you would expect that, I was not an English Major). Any car (well almost any) has the torque to spin the tires, it just depends on the tires! (I'm trying to think of another reason to insert another parenthetical remark, but one is not coming to me right now.) Scott (frequent user of parentheses) Miller GGC BMW CCA P.S. Wasn't it Porridgehead who wrote a whole story, opened a parenthetical remark in the third paragraph and never closed it again? >Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 21:40:39 -0700 (PDT) >From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [uuc] <OT> How Do I Use This Sound Level Meter? > >Scott, > >Easy on the parentheses there, pal! :-) > >Maybe what you should do is just a few 4,000 RPM >clutch drops right in front of the neighbor's house. >That way, the swim team won't seem so bad. > >Or does a 325i have enough torque to spin the tires at >4,000? Maybe you should try 6200? > >Brad "Shifty" Couvillon >'87 528e <-- more like a 500e; either way, could NEVER >spin the tires at even 4 grand! >'85 535i <-- wheelspin on demand, even at 2000 with >the TRXes! >www.fatdaddybmw.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:06:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Euro Rice in Germany! Hi kids, A friend of mine has moved back to Germany (US Army) after a few-year stint here in the States. He's already taken his e28 M535i to one show and just went to a second show -- albeit without the e28 thanks to a PS pump failure -- this weekend. Feel free to check out the following link for some pictures of some, um, interesting BMWs! http://forums.mye28.com/e28/messages/40879.html Brad "Shifty" Couvillon '85 Euro 535i www.fatdaddybmw.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6545 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
