[uucdigest]           Monday, July 7 2003           Volume 03 : Number 6546



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] question about oil viscosity
       [uuc] Re: success installing RTABs and UUC clutch pedal bushings
       [uuc] <E36> At risk of displaying my ignorance...
       Re: [uuc] <E36> Squeaky Steering Wheel?
       [uuc] <M30> removing injectors
       [uuc] Monterey Historics
       [uuc] Re: <OT> How Do I Use This Sound Level Meter?
       Re: [uuc] Euro Rice in Germany!
       [uuc] Good sources for used tranny?
       [uuc] <OT> LFB and video games (simulators)
       Re: [uuc] Good sources for used tranny?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 11:13:38 -0500
From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] question about oil viscosity

It's more of a wear issue; I can't see one oil change interval having 
much effect, at least if you don't spend all the time at the redline. 
You may well notice some increased noise and oil consumption on your 
high mileage engine though.

Crawford, Scott wrote:

>The question is...does it matter that I put in too light an oil for the
>season?  Is there a risk that I hurt my car?
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:21:27 -0700
From: "Kit Wetzler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: success installing RTABs and UUC clutch pedal bushings

Just for Alex and everyone's info, the 96+ bushings are made a considerably
harder durometer rubber than the 95 bushings.  I'm surprised the 95 bushings
were still available, most dealerships have superceded the part number.

Definitely keep an eye on them.   Also, keep in mind that stock RTABs won't
last a whole lot longer with the GC reinforcements, the vertical forces seem
to be what kill them, because they don't seem to last any longer.  My
powerflexes now have 60K miles on them and they're still going strong.  Lots
of people have had bad luck with powerflexes, though, not sure why.  (Mine
are the old Purple color)

Also, my E46 m3 RSMs have lasted over a year, and I run H&R coilovers with
stiffer springs than stock.  When I get my shocks revalved at Bilstein, I'm
gonna switch to GC mounts, but I modified my E46 mounts to mount like the
GCs.  (knocked the studs out of the mounts, welded them to a set of Z3
reinforcement plates going down, then you can bolt then on from underneath
like the GC)

    -kit

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Kit Wetzler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mark Cecil"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
"Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Steve Tymoszuk"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Newman, Christopher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Zack
Steinkamp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Chester Wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Brian Kearney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Khoi"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Matthew C Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 8:47 AM
Subject: success installing RTABs and UUC clutch pedal bushings


> Folks,
> Thanks to everyone who had identified the clutch pedal bushings as the
> source of my clutch squeak: Jon, Chester Wong, Zack Steinkamp, Chris
> Newman, Steve Tymoszuk, Malcolm Reitz, Jim Och, Chris Teague, Mark Cecil,
> Kit Wetzler, Brian Kearney, Khoi, Matthew Smith and Martin Bullen. Every
> one of you told me to buy and install the UUC bushings.
> A local DFW UUC dealer had one in stock and I had added the clutch
> bushings swap to my weekend to-do list. Working in the cramped foot well
> is a bit tricky, but the outcome is blissful silence every time I press
> the clutch pedal. I think the whol job took about 1.5 hours with numerous
> back stretching breaks.
>
> My RTAB (Rear Trailing Arm Bushing) swap went much easier than expected. I
> took my time on the first one than discovered that my '95 M3 had '96+
> style RTABs with side skirts that need to be removed before you can use
> the VictoryProductDesign tool to pull out the old bushings. After 5
> minutes of hack sawing, I went out and bought a SawzAll at a nearby Home
> Depot. I don't know how lived without it all those years! Things went much
> quicker from there on with the second side taking around 30 minutes.
> After some research and emails with PowerFlex and some other Urethane
> bushing owners (one too many of whom related tails premature failure), I
> decided to go with BMW RTABs reinforced by GC washers. I purchased all my
> RTABs from one of the mail order BMW dealers (forgot which one).
> I held both '95 (symmetric) and '96+ RTABs (with a largely decorative
> skirt on the outside of the bushing) in my hand before deciding to go with
> '95 ones. IMHO, all the internet bru-ha-ha about the desirability of '96
> versions is crap.
>
> The symmetric '95 RTABs will take 10 minutes to remove the next time
> around. That's starting with the wheel on the ground.
> GC reinforcements were an impossibly tight fit. I had to file 1 mm off the
> side of the inner RTAB sleeve to make them fit into the bracket with the
> GC reinforcements.
>
> Brad, there is only one way to shove the RTABs into the trailing arm
> aiming for the centerline of the car from the outside (skirt facing
> outboard if you have it). The '96+ RTAB skirts' cut-outs were positioned
> at 12 and 6 o'clock on my old RTABs. I'm pretty sure the cut outs are
> there to accommodate the BMW RTAB removal tool. I would have installed the
> new ones the same way if it came to that, but I could not see any
> engineering necessity to do that.
>
> I had also swapped the lower rear control arms (bent from a dyno day) and
> that took much longer than the RTABs. You need to jack the rear
> differential way into the floor of the car to remove the bolts holding the
> arms to the diff carrier. To get access to the two horizontal rear diff
> mounts you need to remove the rear sway bar. Than get parts to align and
> bolt-up. Everything is a very tight fit.
> The trailing arm does move a lot more freely and tilts all the way to the
> floor (easier to work on ) with the lower control arm disconnected. But
> it's not really necessary and you do need to re-align the car afterwards.
> I had marked the original RTAB bracket position that controls the rear
> wheel toe before I removing them. When reassembling, I installed them back
> in the original position and set both rear control arms for max negative
> camber. Surprisingly, the car now tracks perfectly straight! I will still
> take it for an alignment before too much longer (I'm pretty sure I have
> way too much negative camber in the rear).
>
> I also replaced the rear shocks (the shock piston on one of my Koni SAs
> had broken in half). That hardly took 30 minutes for both thanks to GC
> RSMs.
> <rant mode on> E46 RSMs are crap just like the E30 convertible RSMs that
> carried the cult status in internet circles before them. I had long ago
> switched to GC RSMs and they had already served me longer than any of the
> BMW RSMs that had preceded them on 4 other bimmers. GC RSMs are better in
> many ways, not least of which is the ability to remove the shock from the
> inside of the wheel well (no more pulling the trunk carpeting).
> </rant mode on>
>
> --
> alex f
>
> P.S.: If there was one thing I would have done different, it would be
> pressure washing the underside of the car!
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 11:33:21 -0500
From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E36> At risk of displaying my ignorance...

Hello all,
Just a note to advise anyone considering a clutch job on their E36 M3,
beware of the Bentley.  The large sectional drawing at the start of the
clutch chapter shows the clutch disk in the wrong orientation.  The
extended portion of the hub should face the motor, not the transmission.
There is a much smaller and less detailed drawing later in the chapter
which shows the correct orientation.  Installing the disk backwards will
result in the starter barely being able to turn the engine and a few
scratches on the clutch disk hub.  Ask me how I know...

All in all, not a bad job though.

Regards,
Paul Craven - 2 all-too-complete clutch jobs in ten hours last weekend
97 M3/4 - sporty new clutch

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 11:48:56 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36> Squeaky Steering Wheel?

"Dave Meyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> When I turn my steering wheel, it sometimes squeaks - sort of a
> metal on metal sound. Anyone know how to fix this? Thank you.

Dave,
Replace the bronze washer in the steering wheel assembly. 


alex f

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:06:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <M30> removing injectors

 How difficult / time consuming is it to remove the injectors + cold
start enrichenerator injector from the '84 big six motor?  Seems like
you have to dig a bit to get to it all.  Is it a self-do job, or take
it to the wrench and let him swear at it job?
 Got the Bentley manual already, just looking for experienced hacks
looking to offer their opinion of the job..  thanks!

- --
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:37:11 -0700
From: "Michael Andre" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Monterey Historics

Kevin Kelly asks...Are any other list members going to be in Monterey
next month?

I thought Kevin asked if any of us would be "driving" in the Historics in
August.

Kevin:
JJ and I will be there in the corral, at the dinner, etc. The M5 will make
the trip this time since we sold the 928 S4. I will be pit crew for a
friend's 1926 Fraser-Nash open wheel racer come on over a join us. There is
always something to do on that car! I hope to make a run around the track
just to say I did so in such a brutish beast, but circumstances have to be
right. We will be there for the Pre-Historics as well. I know of a couple of
other M5ers from the SD/Orange Co. area going too.

Mike A

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 13:54:36 -0400
From: Jonathan Porath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: <OT> How Do I Use This Sound Level Meter?

>P.S.  Wasn't it Porridgehead who wrote a whole story, opened a
>parenthetical remark in the third paragraph and never closed it again?

)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 19:37:17 +0100
From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Euro Rice in Germany!

Brad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

"Feel free to check out the following link for some
pictures of some, um, interesting BMWs!

http://forums.mye28.com/e28/messages/40879.html";

Oh blimey.

I especially "liked" the wooden strut brace.  Highly beneficial.

A common modification here has been the Lexus-esque rear lights, sported
most often by worn-out, dumped, ex-fleet 316s rolling on big chrome (and no
damping) in the South London area.  Since Lexus brought out the matt-black
backing for its IS200/300 rear lights, this look is now fast becoming taboo;
consequently, BMW customisers are now ruining their cars further by painting
their chromed parts matt black.  Matt black kidneys, body trim, wheels,
hubs, rotors...

Andy T
'03 318i 2.0.  No chrome, but then it came that way

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 14:40:18 -0400
From: "Ryan and Dee Dee Brenneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Good sources for used tranny?

Group

I need a tranny for my 92 E36 5 speed. It seems to have the wear that makes
it pop out of second gear. IIRC a Roundel article said this was not
something that would be fixed in a tranny rebuild. Therefore I am starting
to hunt for a used tranny. Any help is appreciated.

Ryan Brenneman

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 14:50:50 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] <OT> LFB and video games (simulators)

Well... I found an alternative (maybe an additional tool) to practicing
left foot braking.  Ferrari 355 Challenge, I'm sure this is old news to
people
who frequent Dave & Busters or places like that but I was pretty impressed
by this
game.

This is the first time I play a game with a clutch pedal and one in which
you
could heel-toe your downshifts.  The shifter wasn't gated (which was a
disappointment)
but you could also play the game in SMG mode so that helped (I kept
grabbing
the wrong gear in full sim mode which also pitched the car sideways a
couple of times).
Wasted my lunch money and lunch time playing this game but it was worth it!
:-)

Carlos. (who's complaining about parentheses?)
91 M3
88 iS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 15:19:01 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Good sources for used tranny?

You won't know until you look inside.  Perhaps it only needs a shift fork.

Gary Derian


> Group
>
> I need a tranny for my 92 E36 5 speed. It seems to have the wear that
makes
> it pop out of second gear. IIRC a Roundel article said this was not
> something that would be fixed in a tranny rebuild. Therefore I am starting
> to hunt for a used tranny. Any help is appreciated.
>
> Ryan Brenneman
>
>

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6546
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