[uucdigest] Thursday, July 17 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6576
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] <E30> reducing input shaft bearing noise [uuc] fs: tired of it hanging from the rafters RE: [uuc] Adding tranny fluid to old tranny E34 Re: [uuc] <E30> reducing input shaft bearing noise [uuc] [E30] windshield install [uuc] [E24/E28] FS: 3.07 open diff [uuc] E46 center arm rest [uuc] tire pressures Re: [uuc] <E30> reducing input shaft bearing noise Re: [uuc] tire pressures [uuc] Mechanic for E30 in VA [uuc] Removing E28 drivers door lock SLEEVE RE: [uuc] Removing E28 drivers door lock SLEEVE ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 13:16:29 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E30> reducing input shaft bearing noise Gruppe, Anyone recommend a transmission fluid other than Redline MTL to quiet down input shaft bearing noise? I'm sort of already experimenting with the M3 as I screwed up some synchros (if reverse has synchros) so I'm running part MTL part MT90. I honestly can't say if that reduced the noise or not as at the time I was concerned with other things. That tranny is getting replaced anyway. I've been running Redline for the last 6 years on my cars and since I'm going to replace components I might as well experiment with other fluids and see if I prefer something else. So what's your fluid of choice? Carlos 91 M3 killed reverse autoxing..., 4th gear is sticky 88 iS that damn PO! ;-) (just kidding..) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 10:56:00 -0700 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] fs: tired of it hanging from the rafters fs: tired of it hanging from the garage rafters*: *For Sale: //M3 Exhaust from '97. Fits all 6 cyl E36, nice power and sound improvement for any 325 or 328. Used about one year and hanging from the rafters ever since. Blowout price of $125. Will install for $50. more. For pickup or can deliver SF Bay Area. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 14:19:44 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Adding tranny fluid to old tranny E34 Fluid is ATF, Dexron III. Top off with same. To top off: Start engine, run shifter through all gears, slowly (no need to allow wheels to turn). Place shifter in Park. Turn on headlights Remove fill plug and top off until fluid dribbles out. Trans fluid temp MUST be less the 50C, preferably closer to 30C, in other words, ambient temp on a hot day is good enough, so do this procedure after the car has sat for a long time. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ryan and Dee Dee > Brenneman > I have recently purchased a 93 525 Touring with 200k on the clock. It was > cheap but with some tlc it has turned into a decent car. The GM tranny is > leaking a slight bit and I would like to top it off without changing the > fluid. Wouldn't want to let all the imps and magic out of it. I > figure if I > can get 6 more months out of it then the 5sp swap will be more > palatable to > the SO. What fluid is likely in there? If you had to guess to add > some type > or brand which would you add? TIA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 13:41:22 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> reducing input shaft bearing noise Bananas and sawdust are proven to have bearing quieting properties as neary every corner used car lot owner knows. Gary Derian > Gruppe, > > Anyone recommend a transmission fluid other than Redline MTL > to quiet down input shaft bearing noise? I'm sort of already experimenting > with the M3 as I screwed up some synchros (if reverse has synchros) so I'm > running part MTL part MT90. I honestly can't say if that reduced the noise ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:25:46 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [E30] windshield install Gruppe: Anyone have any pointers/tips for windshield installation for an E30? Or better yet a link to installation procedures? I found a few items concerning the replacement of the lock strip, but not the actual windshield. How long should it take? Any special tools required? I have taken a windshield out of an E30, but never put one back in. TIA. Gilbert Hoffman _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:28:22 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [E24/E28] FS: 3.07 open diff Gruppe: I have a 3.07 open diff for sale. Diff was out of a Euro 635csi. Has less than 90K miles on it. It was purchased with the intent of putting it in my E30. Only it does not fit. Make me an offer. I'd prefer local to NY/NJ so I don't have to ship it. Gilbert Hoffman _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 16:43:38 -0700 From: "Marvin Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E46 center arm rest Original posting: Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 11:31:59 -0400 From: Allen Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E46 center armrest replacement panel A friend with an E46 M3 wants to rid himself of the center armrest and said he's heard of a replacement panel to fill the resulting hole. I've looked at the ETK, either it's not listed or I just can't ID it. Anyone know the part number? Thanks, Allen ========================================= Hi, Allen For the E36 there were 2 center consoles. Some years came with an armrest; some without. So, you could buy either one as a replacement part. Check to see what is available on German market cars. If armrest is optional there, a dealer here should be able to order it. My 1993 325i came with armrest, and I found it got in the way. Fortunately, I happened to find someone whose M3 came without one, so I bought his center console. Please let me know what you find out because I have 2003 330i on order, and will want to get rid of the armrest if it comes with one. Marvin 1993 325i sport package - for sale 2003 330i PP on order ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:15:15 -0500 From: "Al Buchanan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] tire pressures Sorry for joining this discussion a day late. Gary, what you say makes sense to me from a theoretical perspective. However, I cannot reconcile theory with practical application in my particular circumstances, i.e., on the racetrack, with 235/40-17 Hoosier RS303's. An ongoing problem for me on the track is premature wear of the outer corner/edge of the load bearing (outside) tires, particularly the left front tire (when running clockwise). I'm maxed out on negative camber unless I want to turn my vehicle into a race car, which I don't. My limited experience indicates that increasing air pressure reduces tire "rollover" and extends tire life. But how can this be, if increasing air pressure on these particular tires increases sidewall bulge as well as shoulder temperatures? P.S.- I typically run separate pressures at each corner: LF-39, LR-36, RF-35, RR-34. How does this strike you for my particular setup? What is the best way (other than trial-and-error and seat-of-the-pants) to determine the optimal pressures for each corner? Al Buchanan 1984 633 CSi I know you are not measuring the sidewalls. My point is adding pressure to a tire does not cause the center to bulge out. It causes the sidewalls to bulge out. Those charts we see showing that overinflation wears out the center are based on 1960's bias ply tires. It depends on the tire. With a round tread, added pressure would increase center temps, relative to the shoulder. With a flat tread, shoulder temps would increase. Gary Derian Alfred L. Buchanan Fedota, Childers & May, P.C. Three First National Plaza 70 West Madison Street Suite 3900 Chicago, Illinois 60602 Direct Dial Telephone: 312.853.9632 Facsimile: 312.236.8559 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 16:30:37 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> reducing input shaft bearing noise "Bananas and Sawdust" Isn't that a Kashi breakfast cereal? ;-) ********** Gary responz: > Bananas and sawdust are proven to have bearing quieting properties as neary > every corner used car lot owner knows. > Gary Derian > > 'Los sez: > > Gruppe, > > Anyone recommend a transmission fluid other than Redline MTL > > to quiet down input shaft bearing noise? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:12:27 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] tire pressures The sidewall stretching is minute at best. My point is the center does not bulge out with added pressure. Adding tire pressure reduces tire rollover but also reduces the footprint area. It is a balance to find the optimal inflation. Large tires and wheels and good camber allows lower inflation. Tread temp is a good data input at a track, but remember that you are measuring only the last corner, and if there is a long straight between that corner and the pit, the tire temps are getting tweaked towards the straight conditions, not the corner. The best way is to set pressure is on a skid pad. Go for the best lateral acceleration with your setup. Sometimes understeer/oversteer tuning takes precedence over optimal inflation, but if you know the effect of tire inflation on handling from the skidpad testing, then you can apply that at the track to tune handling for the track conditions. Gary Derian > Sorry for joining this discussion a day late. Gary, what you say makes > sense to me from a theoretical perspective. However, I cannot reconcile > theory with practical application in my particular circumstances, i.e., on > the racetrack, with 235/40-17 Hoosier RS303's. An ongoing problem for me on > the track is premature wear of the outer corner/edge of the load bearing > (outside) tires, particularly the left front tire (when running clockwise). > I'm maxed out on negative camber unless I want to turn my vehicle into a > race car, which I don't. My limited experience indicates that increasing > air pressure reduces tire "rollover" and extends tire life. But how can > this be, if increasing air pressure on these particular tires increases > sidewall bulge as well as shoulder temperatures? > > P.S.- I typically run separate pressures at each corner: LF-39, LR-36, > RF-35, RR-34. How does this strike you for my particular setup? What is > the best way (other than trial-and-error and seat-of-the-pants) to determine > the optimal pressures for each corner? > > Al Buchanan > 1984 633 CSi ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:58:14 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Mechanic for E30 in VA One of the guys I know from the Land Rover list just asked if I knew of any list of BMW mechanics on line. His Dad has an E30 325i and does not have time to work on it since he is dealing with the clean up after a house fire. His Dad lives in the Washington, DC suburbs near Manassas, VA. Does anyone know of something like a BMW CCA list of approved mechanics or know of any good mechanics in the DC suburbs. Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:10:57 -0700 From: Matt Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Removing E28 drivers door lock SLEEVE I made the word sleeve capitalized because I've got the cylinder removed, using the very nice writeup thats been around for years and years. However, with the cylinder out of the door I am looking at a very old lock sleeve that has a worn out black plastic ring, etc. How do I remove this from the door ? It seems like its in there awfully well. Additionally, how do i know if i have the interior light function (where pulling up on the door handle is supposed to turn on the interior light) or the heated door locks ? (where pulling up on the door handle is supposed to heat the cylinder) The lights definitely don't turn on, and im not sure how long im supposed to hold onto this handle before i'd sense heat on the lock.. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 23:47:18 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Removing E28 drivers door lock SLEEVE As I recall (haven't taken an E28 door apart since 1998 or so), that ring rotates and then comes off, keyed in place like a taillight bulb. Lifting the handle is supposed to turn on the door lock heaters. The heater is that seperate ring around the lock cylinder. You cannot feel the heat from outside the car, but you should be able to feel it quickly if holding that ring inside the door. - - Rob - ---- Original Message ---- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [uuc] Removing E28 drivers door lock SLEEVE Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:10:57 -0700 >I made the word sleeve capitalized because I've got the cylinder >removed, >using the very nice writeup thats been around for years and years. > >However, with the cylinder out of the door I am looking at a very old >lock >sleeve that has a worn out black plastic ring, etc. How do I remove >this from >the door ? It seems like its in there awfully well. > >Additionally, how do i know if i have the interior light function >(where pulling up on the door handle is supposed to turn on the >interior light) >or the heated door locks ? >(where pulling up on the door handle is supposed to heat the >cylinder) > >The lights definitely don't turn on, and im not sure how long im >supposed to >hold onto this handle before i'd sense heat on the lock.. > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6576 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
