[uucdigest]           Friday, July 25 2003           Volume 03 : Number 6602



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] re: carfax
       RE: [uuc] <E46> Wanted: Used Control Arm
       Re: [uuc] 330iPP vs. Sport Package
       [uuc] 320i repair
       [uuc] <E30> Do I have a bad Evaporator Temperature Regulator?
       [uuc] <e36> Rear Camber Correction Arms & Rear Upper Strut Mounts
       Re: [uuc] <e36> Rear Camber Correction Arms & Rear Upper Strut Mounts
       Re: [uuc] 330iPP vs. Sport Package

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 22:14:40 -0500
From: Neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] re: carfax

I just had to chime in here....
Just for run, I ran the VIN from my 325ix: WBAAE0300KED52163. It shows 1 
owner (I'm the third), but 9 title changes, 4 of which are title issuances.
It also shows no accidents. It's had two. One minor - mostly paintwork, 
and one major - total loss, which is how I got it (I bought it from the 
owners).
It shows 89K at the last title transfer, on 3/9/01. The actual mileage 
then was 88k, and it was on 3/22/01 (purchase date was 3/5/01).
It says that the car passed emissions inspection at 89k miles. We don't 
have emissions testing in Indiana.
This is a good example of the irregularities one can get from Carfax, 
though I've never seen 4 on one title.
I ran my other cars and they are mostly error free.

Neil

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 23:25:32 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <E46> Wanted: Used Control Arm

Check your local dealer, they've probably got a stack 10ft high.  BMW has
long ago stopped requiring that the warranty replacements be returned, or do
you want the latest style?

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gilbert Hoffman
> I know someone has a set in the corner of their garage. Too busy
> to bring it
> to the junkyard, not willing to recycle or throw them out. Well
> here's you
> chance to get rid of one (or both.) What I am looking for is an undamaged
> control arm from a non-M, non-Xi E46. Either side. Sloppy joints
> OK. I'm not
> offering any money, so if you're in the NY/NJ that would be great
> for me to
> come pick it up.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 21:10:02 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] 330iPP vs. Sport Package

Also measure the wire diameter and number of coils for the springs.
Gary Derian



> The BMW literature keeps talking about how the PP has "a more stiffened
> sport suspension", but no one can tell me if it's any different than the
> regular sport package set-up. I did some measurements and took some pics
> today in the hopes that someone will be willing to compare these parts
with
> their sport suspension.
>
> The sway bars are approx. 24mm thick on the front and 18mm thick in the
> rear. You can see a parts tag on the rear bar in this pic:
> http://www.guagenti.com/330iPP/330iPP-Pages/Image10.html
>
> The front springs are marked with a red and white dot. The rear springs
are
> marked by 3 green dots. You can see pics of the front spring here:
> http://www.guagenti.com/330iPP/330iPP-Pages/Image12.html
>
> The shocks are Sachs, with the front shock bearing the part number 2 282
> 459. I took a (bad) shot of the sticker:
> http://www.guagenti.com/330iPP/330iPP-Pages/Image13.html
>
> If anyone can share what they know about the factory sport package (sizes,
> spring rates, etc.), I'd appreciate it. I want to know what I'm starting
> with before I make any mods.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -p
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 00:12:13 -0400
From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 320i repair

Steve Wrote"My son has found an 82 320i  with ~125k miles that he wants to 
buy and I'm
looking for advice..how easy to fix, intake off..


Steve,  I skipped a generation in my BMWS, went 1602-2002-735i e32 and a 
325ic e30, so I have never personally owned a 320i.

The  real question on this car is "do you guys want to fix up an old 
car".  125k isn't that many miles on a bimmer .  20 years is a long time 
though and usually the valve seals and valves have taken a long 
beating.  All of the rubber is ooooold at this point too, stuff like the 
rubber on the drive shaft hangar, and the bearing there, the guibo, the 
brake caliper seals..maybe a cv boot or two

Decent paint is at least $1000 if you care..



Can you wrench your own car?  I mean like changing struts, drive shafts, 
cylinder heads etc,

or do you have the bucks to throw at a pro?

Do you like finishing long involved projects?

Bimmers are extremely easy to work on and fix, as cars go I find them 
absolutely the easiest thing to twist wrenches on.



If the body is straight and clean, and you want to fix up a car, the 320 i 
has lots of cheap parts available, and like all Bimmers, is built just the 
same as it ever was.  Fixing the intake is totally dependant on what FI 
parts are there, and why it was apart.  My recollection of the 2002 4 
cylinders was that the valve guides on them little hi-revved 2 liter 4 
cylinder jobs was quick, mine would always burn oil.

If it were me and the intake was off, it would have been because I was 
pulling the head and taking it to the local NAPA machine shop for a valve 
job, which that little engine could definitely use at 125k miles.

You can do a compression check on the engine, and it might run fine, but 
those ancient valve seals can make for a hell of a smoker...

It would definitely be a great time to pull the head, as the intake is off...

Then I take a wire brush on my grinder and tape off all but the cylinders 
with the pistons at the top, and grind off the carbon from the piston 
faces..suck the carbon out with the shop vac..

That usually costs about $400 with gaskets and machine work(including those 
intake gaskets you need anyway.)

I'd expect to change the shocks and struts, for about $450 parts pretty 
immediately.
Probably the front end suspension bushings(something back there in my mind 
on these 320s shimmying..hmm how rare with a bimmer?)

Maybe a couple of tie rods.
Probably some drive shaft/center bearing replacement.
Brakes all the way around
Exhaust
maybe the radiator..
De we hear master cylinder?
Gas tank?


How bout that clutch slave cylinder..

Hows the clutch..an easy fix, but again someone needs to want to crawl 
under..and catch a falling gearbox..

But not all of this stuff will blow up immediately.

I like to fix cars for some perverse reason.


If you guys dig fixing cars, a $300 320i with a solid body could be fun,

A  $300 hooker with a solid body might be more fun, and she probably 
wouldn't come live in your garage and take up your driveway in pieces for 
years...

You could just try bolting it all back together and see what you 
got..Probably get her running in a day..




But if you DIY, I don't think the bill is more than $1500 to tweak it  into 
'runs good' condition, at least for this year..but all that other stuff I 
just mentioned will break in the next 3 years in some kind of order on a 20 
year old sled..

On the whole though, I like the ABS brakes, and the digital fuel injection 
on the late 80--early 90s stuff, and they get cheap too, and cost the same 
to fix, and you can sometimes find cheap solid 89-90 e30s, and they will be 
nicer and much more modern and convienient cars once fixed up, and the 
little 2.5 six engine pulls so fine. Back in the days when I lusted after a 
320, the hot ride was the 323i.. a gray market Eurosled  with the small six.

  I'd say find a used 325i, because when it is running well, it will be a 
much more modern car, and more reliable and easier to find parts for going 
forward.  The 320is were built about the time when Bimmers were just 
becoming cool over here, and the Fuel injection, and interiors and 
ergonomics, and power window technology' and feedback emission 
controls  were all still early in the technology development cycle, by the 
e 30, that stuff had been through many evolutions and the DME controlled 
Injection is much more evolved.

Or you can have it live in your yard with a broken intake for the next 
three years and still be worth $300.00

Or get the kid a Chevy Truck.

Did I mention I like trucks?





Dave Leonard

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 22:17:49 -0700
From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Do I have a bad Evaporator Temperature Regulator?

I have and '89 325is. I thought I wasn't getting any power to the AC 
compressor.  So I started searching from the AC switch in the cabin to 
find where the power stops.  My test light shows that power is getting 
to the evaporator temperature regulator (ETR).  I also notice that the 
ETR is clicking about once every 10 seconds. Each time it clicks, my 
test light flashes when attached to a purple wire leaving the ETR.  No 
other wires are getting power.  I then check the power line to the AC 
high pressure switch, but this time I wait for 10 seconds.  Sure enough 
my check light will flash about every 10 seconds.

So can someone explain what's going on, or do I simply have a bad ETR?

Thanks,

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 23:25:42 -0700
From: "Clan Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <e36> Rear Camber Correction Arms & Rear Upper Strut Mounts

Both ActiveAutowerke and Turner Motorsport offer Rear Camber Correction Arms
for the e36. Since I'm also experiencing high wearout of the inner edge of
my tires (due to the lowered stance of the H&R Sports I believe), I'm
thinking that a set of these would pay for themselves in tire savings over
the years.

Could anyone comment on either company's product? My biggest concern
(besides their cost) is durability.

On RUSMs, it would appear that the e46 RUSM with the Z3 reinforcement plate
is the way to go, but Ground Control offers their custom solution (lifetime
guarantee to original purchaser) with urethane bushings. My concern with the
GC solution is unwanted NVH from the urethane bushing. Can anyone comment to
their experience here as well?

thanks again for the advice and experience,

Mike

- ---------------------------------------
Clan Hood-Douda - Arcadia Farm
Lacomb, Oregon 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 23:39:19 -0700
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36> Rear Camber Correction Arms & Rear Upper Strut Mounts

Clan Hood-Douda at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Both ActiveAutowerke and Turner Motorsport offer Rear Camber Correction Arms
> for the e36. Since I'm also experiencing high wearout of the inner edge of
> my tires (due to the lowered stance of the H&R Sports I believe), I'm
> thinking that a set of these would pay for themselves in tire savings over
> the years.
> 
> Could anyone comment on either company's product? My biggest concern
> (besides their cost) is durability.

TC Kline makes/sells these as well.  So does Ground Control.

I've got a used set of the TC Kline ones on my race car and they came off a
friend's race car.  And he does not baby his cars.  :)

I'm guessing they'll hold up just fine on the street.  Frankly, the factory
piece is so wimpy just about anything would be better.

> On RUSMs, it would appear that the e46 RUSM with the Z3 reinforcement plate
> is the way to go, but Ground Control offers their custom solution (lifetime
> guarantee to original purchaser) with urethane bushings. My concern with the
> GC solution is unwanted NVH from the urethane bushing. Can anyone comment to
> their experience here as well?

I'm using the Ground Control ones as well.  They are very nice, but I'm
using the race bushings.  Very stiff.

Here's another option:

http://store.yahoo.com/jtdesigns/suspension.html

Two options, both very nice.

- - Mark
- --
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 09:36:27 +0100
From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] 330iPP vs. Sport Package

Peter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

"The BMW literature keeps talking about how the PP has "a more stiffened
sport suspension", but no one can tell me if it's any different than the
regular sport package set-up. I did some measurements and took some pics
today in the hopes that someone will be willing to compare these parts with
their sport suspension.
...
If anyone can share what they know about the factory sport package (sizes,
spring rates, etc.), I'd appreciate it. I want to know what I'm starting
with before I make any mods."

I have been led by the ETK to believe that the sports suspension option
(either option 226, or available in something like the Sports Package) is a
"mild" sports suspension tuning, as opposed to the more aggressive M Sport
Package II setup available in some places.  I reckon the 330i PP is much
like this M Sport Package II,  because of the similarities in suspension
tuning, bodykit, wheels and interior trim.  This would also tally with BMW's
assertion than the 330i PP has stiffer suspension than the regular sports
suspension settings (whether bought standalone or as part of a pack).

Your figures for the anti-roll bars match with those for e.g. the UK-market
330i fitted with sport suspension, and the part no. for the damper is
identical (31 31 2 282 459).  However 31 31 2 282 459 is also used for the
regular 330i, where "sports suspension" is standard (it can be deleted and
there are alternate parts numbers for this).  So the position is not
completely clear.  Don't know about the spring rates, though.

My car, with option code 226 (Sports Suspension) has 23.5 mm front anti-roll
bar and 18 mm rear.  Haven't seen a rear bar bigger than 18 mm on non-M
3ers.

Andy T
'03 318i 2.0

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6602
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