[uucdigest] Friday, July 25 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6603
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Secondary Air Pump...New Tire Question...Shocks?...Sway Bars? Re: [uuc] <E30> Do I have a bad Evaporator Temperature Regulator? [uuc] Rear Brake squeal RE: [uuc] Secondary Air Pump...New Tire Question...Shocks?...Sway Bars? [uuc] <Misc> Re: brake Squeal Re: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal [uuc] car trailer for sale [uuc] One problem solved Re: [uuc] car trailer for sale Re: [uuc] One problem solved Re: [uuc] car trailer for sale [uuc] FW: 320i repair Re: [uuc] <E30> Do I have a bad Evaporator Temperature Regulator? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 07:06:23 -0400 From: "Joseph T. Baptista Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Secondary Air Pump...New Tire Question...Shocks?...Sway Bars? Occasionally at start-up, it sounds like a cat is stuck in my engine compartment. The noise appears to be coming from the secondary air pump. Has anyone had this problem? How involved is the repair? Second question, I need new tires for my 96 328i (Tire Size: 225 50 R16) asap! I live in New England but will never drive this car in the snow or ice. I am looking for a performance tire with good ride quality and decent tread life. I have no plans to be at the track, street-use only. Last question, I am looking to improve the performance handling of the car. I have no plans to install larger wheels so the need to install springs is limited, I think. Should I go with sport shocks or sway bars? If so, what does everyone recommend? Thanks in advance. Respectfully submitted, Joe Baptista 1996 328i (E36) BMWCCA #309409 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 07:41:38 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Do I have a bad Evaporator Temperature Regulator? The ETR cycles the compressor anytime it thinks that there is icing occurring or likely to occur on the evaporator.. If there is no ice and it is cycling, then you likely have a bad one. You can jumper it and see if everything works OK, If you see a gradual decrease in airflow from the vents and maybe white "smoke" coming from the center vent, you are icing up. Ed '89 i and others. Kurt Zimmerman wrote: > I have and '89 325is. I thought I wasn't getting any power to the AC > compressor. So I started searching from the AC switch in the cabin to > find where the power stops. My test light shows that power is getting > to the evaporator temperature regulator (ETR). I also notice that the > ETR is clicking about once every 10 seconds. Each time it clicks, my > test light flashes when attached to a purple wire leaving the ETR. No > other wires are getting power. I then check the power line to the AC > high pressure switch, but this time I wait for 10 seconds. Sure > enough my check light will flash about every 10 seconds. > > So can someone explain what's going on, or do I simply have a bad ETR? > > Thanks, > > Kurt > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:10:18 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal My '95 Ti has developed an annoying rear brake squeal especially noticeable when gently braking. The actual braking is not affected, brakes work fine. Here is what I have done so far... Tighten the E-brake as per instructions in Bentley - this solved that rattling sound you get over rough roads for a few days, it's back now Removed calipers, pads, etc. Pads are in good shape, no noticeable grooves or dirt/rocks. Rotors are a bit worn, but the car only has 60K miles - I wouldn't think the rear rotors are beyond the limit yet. If so, would this cause the noise? Checked, inspected, cleaned, put a few ounces of Stop-Squeal on each side, bled the caliper just a bit and reassembled. This worked for about 1 week, now the squeal is back. They only squeal under light braking and not all the time. It may be helpful to note that I live down a gravel driveway, though I can't see that much grit getting into the brakes to cause the noises. Any ideas?? Phil ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 07:17:29 -0500 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Secondary Air Pump...New Tire Question...Shocks?...Sway Bars? Joe, My secondary air pump made similar noises just before it failed completely. AFAIK, the fix is just to replace the pump itself. Unfortunately, I think the pump is pretty expensive ($350 or so). Mine was a warranty repair, so I'm not quite sure on the difficulty, but the way the thing just sits on top by the firewall makes me think it wouldn't be too hard to replace. Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i - -----Original Message----- From: Joseph T. Baptista Jr. [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 6:06 AM To: Bmw-Digest (E-mail); Bmwuucdigest (E-mail) Subject: [uuc] Secondary Air Pump...New Tire Question...Shocks?...Sway Bars? Occasionally at start-up, it sounds like a cat is stuck in my engine compartment. The noise appears to be coming from the secondary air pump. Has anyone had this problem? How involved is the repair? Second question, I need new tires for my 96 328i (Tire Size: 225 50 R16) asap! I live in New England but will never drive this car in the snow or ice. I am looking for a performance tire with good ride quality and decent tread life. I have no plans to be at the track, street-use only. Last question, I am looking to improve the performance handling of the car. I have no plans to install larger wheels so the need to install springs is limited, I think. Should I go with sport shocks or sway bars? If so, what does everyone recommend? Thanks in advance. Respectfully submitted, Joe Baptista 1996 328i (E36) BMWCCA #309409 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 05:31:03 -0700 (PDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <Misc> Re: brake Squeal they squeal only under light braking? brake harder... Are tehy stock pads. Some of the aftermarket pads are prone to squealing. You can also take a file to the front edge of the pad to bevel it at about 45 degrees to break up the resonance. I've found that there's always a little bit of rattle in the E36 brakes that I've used. It's just a matter of how carefully you're listening. When I lived in town and had narrow streets with row houses on either side, I heard EVERYTHING as I went down the street. My car rattles much less now that I live out in the burbs. Marc Plante E36 325i, 214k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:59:50 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal >>Any ideas?? I would install shims on the rear pads. I got mine from an import parts store but they may be available pretty much anywhere. They reduced the squeal on some very noisy pads that I use for street driving. Carlos 91 M3 88 iS ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 10:23:20 -0400 From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] car trailer for sale i'm finally selling my race trailer. it's a 20', all steel trailer with a wood bed. four axles, 15" wheels, electric brakes and a beavertail. here are some photos... it's attached to the back of the motorhome in this pic... http://www.kwyjibo.com/ispeed/raceteam/motorhome/argosy2.jpg the wrecked 318 is on it in these pics... http://www.kwyjibo.com/ispeed/raceteam/april1299/rolled.htm new, in '98 it was around $1500. it's very heavy duty, very strong. the bulldog hitch is awesome. it's got a 7-pin plug, electric brakes, and takes a 2" ball. it's got a wooden deck and at some point in the next year or two the wood will need to be replaced (there is a spot at the front where some of the wood has gone bad - not a problem at all if you're hauling cars, just doesn't look that good). it's a great trailer though, and as i'm including a brand new spare tire and wheel. i'd like to get $1000. it's located in centreville, virginia. m. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 10:31:57 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] One problem solved Everyone, I'd like to thank y'all for helping out with some of the problems I've been having lately. The car still goes thump,thump,thump down the road, but it looks as if I'm on the right track for ditching the A/C noise. So some careful inspection led me to some conclusions. First, either A/C was never an initial design consideration on the E30 M3 or the engineer who designed the bracket was just a sadistic [EMAIL PROTECTED] a little bit of both. Anyway, the belt was loose as hell due to the compressor being very badly cocked. The adjustment bolt towards the front had checked out, never to be seen again (if you found an M8 25mm long bolt in your track tire, you can send it back to me). So anyway, that was an easy run to Pep Boys fix (included is a great laugh looking at all the ricers perusing crap). However, the compressor really won't sit straight with respect to, well anything. Under the car, it's pretty evident that 15 years & 148,000 miles have taken their toll on the bushings between the engine & lower adjustment carrier. As these failed they took the bushings on the lower adjustment carrier with them. Anyway, the belt's tight now, despite the forward top adjustment bolt--if I ever find the guy who designed that he's in for a thrashing. Basically, I had to use one of those universal built-in sockets, a short extension u-joint, then looooong extension, a small miracle and considerable use of four-letter words to get it all in there. Hopefully a trip to the dealer will net the appropriate bushings and the alignment can be fixed as well. Now on to the thump, thump, thump & taking this worthless Harbour Frieght jack back. Mine does the same as Tim Ng's did. Worked once & then jack up, saddle falls down; jack up, saddle falls down. And I followed the instructions to the letter. Lee ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 07:43:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] car trailer for sale But now that you have a French car, you NEED that trailer <G> - --- Michael Wendell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > i'm finally selling my race trailer. it's a 20', all steel trailer > with > a wood bed. four axles, 15" wheels, electric brakes and a > beavertail. > here are some photos... __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 10:46:02 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] One problem solved >Now on to the thump, thump, thump & taking this worthless Harbour Frieght >jack back. Mine does the same as Tim Ng's did. Worked once & then jack up, >saddle falls down; jack up, saddle falls down. And I followed the >instructions to the letter. Lee make sure the handle is properly attached, double check it anyway, otherwise these jacks do some funky stuff. Carlos. (considering one now that they're $99) 91 M3 88 is ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 10:56:39 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] car trailer for sale Matthew Yip wrote: > But now that you have a French car, you NEED that trailer <G> French car ? Citroen ? Citroen-Maserati ? Alpine ? Peugeot ? Renault ? any way you slice it he definitely needs a trailer. :-P Ben learned to drive in a Renault Alliance aka Renault 9 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 09:57:50 -0500 From: "Castro-Miller, Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] FW: 320i repair Dave, Much color to your commentary, which I appreciate. Thing is, we have an 85 Chebby C10 which he doesn't like. It's a POS farm truck, but what the heck. I've wrenched old Firebirds and Camaros, changed a VW engine in a farmer's field, rebuilt Nissan carbs, etc, so I'm not afraid, I just don't want to pour lots-o-time into something that may be a never ending project (which it sounds like it would be) and cost more than a working model when I'm done. Hard thing is, once they get that look in their eye, there is no persuading them... reminds me of the time I convinced my dad I HAD TO HAVE that 69 Fiat Spyder and we towed it through Atlanta...man did I learn a few things on that car (950cc engine)... like how to cuss proficiently. I think I'll go over and see what we can do in a day working on it and make a decision then. Thanks for everyone's input. Steve - -----Original Message----- From: David A. Leonard [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday,July 24,2003 11:12 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 320i repair /snip ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:09:27 -0700 From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Do I have a bad Evaporator Temperature Regulator? Thanks Ed, If I supply power to the high pressure switch, then the compressor works fine. The ETR starts clicking immediately no matter how long the car has been sitting. There has been no time for anything to ice up. Kurt Ed MacVaugh wrote: > The ETR cycles the compressor anytime it thinks that there is icing > occurring or likely to occur on the evaporator.. If there is no ice > and it is cycling, then you likely have a bad one. You can jumper it > and see if everything works OK, If you see a gradual decrease in > airflow from the vents and maybe white "smoke" coming from the center > vent, you are icing up. > > Ed > > '89 i and others. > > Kurt Zimmerman wrote: > >> I have and '89 325is. I thought I wasn't getting any power to the AC >> compressor. So I started searching from the AC switch in the cabin >> to find where the power stops. My test light shows that power is >> getting to the evaporator temperature regulator (ETR). I also notice >> that the ETR is clicking about once every 10 seconds. Each time it >> clicks, my test light flashes when attached to a purple wire leaving >> the ETR. No other wires are getting power. I then check the power >> line to the AC high pressure switch, but this time I wait for 10 >> seconds. Sure enough my check light will flash about every 10 seconds. >> >> So can someone explain what's going on, or do I simply have a bad ETR? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Kurt >> >> > > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6603 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . 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