[uucdigest] Sunday, August 10 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6649
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] broken radiator plug Re: [uuc] E30 Bumper Weight [uuc] The salvage of the Tricolor AKA Volvo soup [uuc] 735i wont shut off! when it should Re: [uuc] E30 Bumper Weight Re: [uuc] broken radiator plug [uuc] E28 problem(s) [uuc] Re: Fraud Warning - Ryan Harker [uuc] Re: Fraud Warning - Ryan Harker [uuc] <E36> Brake circuit failure light Re: [uuc] E28 problem(s) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 00:35:37 -0400 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] broken radiator plug David, If you have an old flat-blade screwdriver and a propane torch you can heat up the tip of the screwdriver and stick it into the plug so it melts it's own slot. Should do the trick. If it's not leaking it should be OK until Monday. Brian '94 325ic David DeBord wrote: >I just flushed the coolant system. It was really messy and the engine drain >bolt was a beech! I was so excited when I finished flushing (did a final bit >with distilled water because passenger side wheel was on a ramp) that i was >a little careless with the radiator plug & it broke off! It's just a couple >of threads down. I know the best answer is to try to drill it out & replace >it (don't have access to one until Monday), but what do you think? It did'nt >seem to let any water out until the plug was almost all the way out. Would >you risk driving it or wait? I put some water in to check but it doesn't >seem to be leaking. Any idea how to remoe the old plug? I figure i coud use >something with a shrp point to try to stick it toward the outside edge, and >try to turn it. This must happen often. I hardly even turned it but it was >with a screw driver. Just as it was snapping I was thinking that I read to >HAND-Tighten! OOUCH! >thanks >d > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 00:40:40 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 Bumper Weight Greatly appreciated! Did you mean that the aluminum bumper mounts weigh 0.90 kg (rather than 0.090 kg)? That would make the 21 lbs. work out. My fog lights are in the valence panel not the aluminum bumper. Did the '86 bumper have the fogs in the bumper instead? Stan > Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 01:52:00 -0400 > From: "Mitchell Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 Bumper Weight > > I weighed an 86 US Al front bumper w/ shocks, fogs and all attached plastic > except side pieces. ~25 lbs > > Euro front bumper (Feded w/ reinforcements ~2-3 lbs) complete w/ all > mounting hardware and plastic. ~12 lbs > > From the HTK: > > 86 US front bumper > Al bumper 5.406 kg > Shock 1.246 kg x 2 > Mount .090 kg x 2 > About 21 lbs w/o fogs and plastic > > 89 US plastic bumper > Bumper composite piece 3.978 kg > Shock 0.975 kg x 2 > Mount 0.374 kg x 2 > About 15 lbs less a lot of plastic > > > > Don't own a plastic bumper car to check > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 4:23 PM > Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 Bumpers > > Although I would still welcome > > definitive weights if someone has them. Even if the weight savings were > > half that it would be worth it to me. > > It appears very easy to swap them? > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 00:05:36 -0500 From: Neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] The salvage of the Tricolor AKA Volvo soup I haven't seen this make the rounds yet....the second link has some pretty amazing photos. Not amazing in quality, though they're well done, but in content. Dozens of sideways Volvos, and a the tail of the Tricolor, sawed off like the end of a hot dog. It kinda looks like one of those cool super detailed drawings in encyclopedias and on posters. I heard something on the radio recently about Volvo wanting to make sure that the cars were completely destroyed, rather than recycle as used parts, but I didn't hear much more than that, and may have misunderstood what they said. The salvage of the Tricolor: http://www.tricolorsalvage.com/pages/infographic.asp http://www.blognewsnetwork.com/members/0000001/mpg/tricolorAutos/tricolorAutos.html Share and Enjoy! Neil ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 22:53:42 -0700 From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 735i wont shut off! when it should Ok here is a weird one I could use some help on. The car is a 1987 and when you turn the key off it continues to run for about 7 seconds. Even if the motor is off and you have the key on and a test light hooked up to the coil the light will just gradually shut off. In other words if you switch the key off the test light slowly goes out. Any ideas on this one??? thanks, ben 1995 325i 1985td 1985td 1984 323i 1971 and 1972 2002's [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 07:11:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Daniels <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 Bumper Weight 87 and back had the fogs mounted on the bumper. and the IC had them til 90 or 91. Jason - --- "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > My fog lights are in the valence panel not the > aluminum bumper. Did the '86 > bumper have the fogs in the bumper instead? > > Stan ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 10:52:09 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] broken radiator plug No problem, I have driven BMWs many months with broken drain plugs. When the head breaks off, there remains a + shaped hole that accepts a Philips screwdriver. The head of the plug does not make the seal. There is an o-ring on the plug itself that does the sealing. The plug needs practically no torque. Gary Derian > I just flushed the coolant system. It was really messy and the engine drain > bolt was a beech! I was so excited when I finished flushing (did a final bit > with distilled water because passenger side wheel was on a ramp) that i was > a little careless with the radiator plug & it broke off! It's just a couple > of threads down. I know the best answer is to try to drill it out & replace > it (don't have access to one until Monday), but what do you think? It did'nt > seem to let any water out until the plug was almost all the way out. Would > you risk driving it or wait? I put some water in to check but it doesn't > seem to be leaking. Any idea how to remoe the old plug? I figure i coud use > something with a shrp point to try to stick it toward the outside edge, and > try to turn it. This must happen often. I hardly even turned it but it was > with a screw driver. Just as it was snapping I was thinking that I read to > HAND-Tighten! OOUCH! > thanks > d > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 15:24:19 -0400 From: "Mark A. Selleck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E28 problem(s) I need some input from the list: Recently returned from a trip in the NC mountains, and the car ('85 535i, 250k, essentially stock, 5sp) was not running with it's usual pep. I was due for a tune-up, so I took it into my mechanic, and he did the deed, valve adjustment, etc. He told me that the car had been running rich, O2 sensor dead, fuel rail pressure regulator return line had clogged. He replaced it and the O2 sensor. I picked the car up and was not happy: there was a noticeable bog when starting from stop cold, and a "background" hesitation when running at constant speed even when warm. This was new, had not been there before, or on our trip. I took the car back, and my mechanic put a gas-line pressure gauge on the car, drove it, and told me that the gas pressure was not where it should be, and was not constant. He recommended replacing BOTH gas pumps, given the mileage on the car, and the fact we'd never done so since I bought the car with 95k on it. I suggested we replace the main pump and see if that took care of it, and if not we could do the in-tank pump later. I got the car back Friday late, picked it up after closing. Not happy. The hesitation on starting when cold is as bad if not worse. After it warms up it is still there in the background, and on some starts from stop the car still bogs down big-time. I'm beginning to wonder if it's fuel-pump related, since this problem was not there prior to the "tune-up"(replaced gas filter, air filter, in addition to O2 sensor, pressure reg.). Other possibilities? I do my own work on my '65 356 Porsche, but fuel-injected cars are NOT my expertise. Any help/suggestions appreciated. Thanks! Mark Selleck ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 16:50:57 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Fraud Warning - Ryan Harker Bob, >From the UUC Digest this weekend. Since Mark, the buyer, is an E36 M3 guy I'm guessing that the 3.15 diff was from Jeff's LTW. Wonder if it was damaged in that curb-smack incident last year? Does Rick Vaughn do the work on that car? Neil - -------- on 8/9/03 1:03 AM, [uucdigest] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 22:24:28 -0700 > From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] Fraud Warning - Ryan Harker > > Just an FYI, do not buy/sell items with a Ryan Harker in Indianapolis. > > I purchased a used 3.15 ltd slip diff "in great condition with 30K miles on > it" from him back in February, based on his ad on Roadfly. The diff was > junk when I received it. Totally unusable. > > Repeated and lengthy requests for redress have gone completely unanswered > and I'm out $650. I was willing to be reasonable and work with him, under > the assumption that he truly didn't know the diff was all crunchy inside. > No dice. > > Hopefully, I can save someone else the grief and $$'s. Caveat Emptor. > > - - Mark, finally burned by someone in the BMW Community > - -- > [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 16:58:27 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Fraud Warning - Ryan Harker Please disregard my message on this subject, which obviously wasn't intended for the Digest. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 15:13:23 -0700 From: "Marvin Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> Brake circuit failure light BMWNA put out a service bulletin on this because it is a common failure. I don't know if they will do it for free for cars out of warranty. Marvin Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 14:52:31 -0500 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] [E36] Brake Circuit Failure? This typically means the brake light switch on the pedal is going bad. It is a cheap, if uncomfortable, DIY job to replace the switch. http://www.logun.org/brake.htm has a good write-up on the process. Malcolm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 20:40:41 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E28 problem(s) What was the fuel pressure. It is not supposed to be constant, but varies with intake vacuum in a manner that the pressure drop across the injectors is constant. Monitor the O2 sensor output to check for the proper dithering about stochiometric (0.3 volt to 0.7 volts about 2x per second). Vacuum leaks and other usual suspects might be causing this but their effect was masked by the rich condition. Mark, if you can fix a Porsche, you can fix fuel injection. Gary Derian > I need some input from the list: Recently returned from a trip in the NC > mountains, and the car ('85 535i, 250k, essentially stock, 5sp) was not > running with it's usual pep. I was due for a tune-up, so I took it into my > mechanic, and he did the deed, valve adjustment, etc. He told me that the > car had been running rich, O2 sensor dead, fuel rail pressure regulator > return line had clogged. He replaced it and the O2 sensor. I picked the > car up and was not happy: there was a noticeable bog when starting from > stop cold, and a "background" hesitation when running at constant speed > even when warm. This was new, had not been there before, or on our > trip. I took the car back, and my mechanic put a gas-line pressure gauge > on the car, drove it, and told me that the gas pressure was not where it > should be, and was not constant. He recommended replacing BOTH gas pumps, > given the mileage on the car, and the fact we'd never done so since I > bought the car with 95k on it. I suggested we replace the main pump and > see if that took care of it, and if not we could do the in-tank pump > later. I got the car back Friday late, picked it up after closing. Not > happy. The hesitation on starting when cold is as bad if not worse. After > it warms up it is still there in the background, and on some starts from > stop the car still bogs down big-time. I'm beginning to wonder if it's > fuel-pump related, since this problem was not there prior to the > "tune-up"(replaced gas filter, air filter, in addition to O2 sensor, > pressure reg.). Other possibilities? I do my own work on my '65 356 > Porsche, but fuel-injected cars are NOT my expertise. Any help/suggestions > appreciated. Thanks! > > Mark Selleck > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6649 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
