[uucdigest] Monday, August 11 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6652
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] E39 HVAC woes RE: [uuc] Re: Somewhat enthusiastic 318I owner [uuc] e30 driveline questions Re: [uuc] RE: Amp Connectors [uuc] Tire related info. Re: [uuc] RE: Amp Connectors Re: [uuc] e30 driveline questions [uuc] [M3] HK system over-heating [uuc] [M3] HK system over-heating [uuc] Re: <E30> M3 springs raise 325i (!) RE: [uuc] <E30> M3 springs raise 325i (!) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 16:06:08 -0500 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E39 HVAC woes Hello All, Just in time for August in Houston, my E39 M5 HVAC system has developed some issues. It's now blowing warmish air from the vents on the passenger side. This becomes worse with higher higher fan speed and warmer ambient temperature. The fan isn't misbehaving -- I had a faulty final stage resistor replaced just a few months ago, and the symptoms are different (although I don't know if the resistor pack can cause other problems). I'm assuming there's some kind of fresh air blend gate or flap that's staying open because it has a bad controller, or maybe it's a faulty head unit. Fortunately, the car's still under warranty. Anyone have any ideas? I'd like to have some concept of what's going on before I take the car in to the dealer... TIA, Scott Staewen _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 16:47:07 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Somewhat enthusiastic 318I owner "Sam Drake" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I can install Monroe sensa tracs for under $200 or Beilstein heavy > duties (no sports)for just under $600. This is not apples to apples. Sam, Do yourself a favor and drive some other cars with Bilstein HDs and stock springs. Go to your local chapter event and someone is bound to have an E36 with that setup. Going by my dated E30 experience, the ride will be re-assuring firmer, but not rough. If you want stock ride, get Boges. They will fall somewhere in the middle of the price range. > With the sensatracs I would opt to keep the existing shock mounts (they > look good) but with the Beilsteins I'm thinking that the shock mounts > had better be changed because the Beilsteins will stress them more. > I do not know enough to make a case for any of this. Bad RSMs can be detected only if they are really torn apart. If yours are OEM have more than 50K miles, they are due for a replacement. Unless you enjoy peeling trunk lining every 30-50K miles, get GC RSMs. Your decision to replace RSMs should be independent of the shock choice. > $400 is significant money for me but it can be found if there is some > kind of benefit I can substantiate. If you do not DIY, you will likely be paying for a new set of shocks every 50-80K miles. Unless you buy Bilsteins or Konis. On the other hand, you've managed to drive on one set of shocks for 175K miles, the last 100+K of which were largely dampening free. So the new set might just last you the lifetime ;-) Either shock will be a significant improvement over the status quo! good luck, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 17:48:21 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] e30 driveline questions I don't have any resources in front of me and need to order up the self tightening nuts to do the guibo and center support bearing Are the nuts at both end of the driveshaft the same size? (guibo and diff flange) How many will I need? (Any other fasteners I'll need to get?) And will any molybdenum disulphide grease do.....or should I order something from Steve D. or bavauto? (Bentley mentions Molykote Longterm 2...or equivalent.....what's the equivalent I could buy at Autozone? I don't mind spending the money if there is better stuff to use.) Is the centering guide tough to replace? (I don't mind doing everything while I'm in there).....do they go bad often? Last question.....my 84 325e has a harmonic balancer around the guibo....do I replace it with a new one, put this one back on (can they be reused?) or leave it off all together (I seem to remember someone saying to get rid of it all together) As always thanks to those who respond and feel free to hit me on my personal email to save disgest bandwidth... P.S. for those who responded to my exhaust question,I ended up taking off the existing muffler and it was a Boysen (OEM) and clean enough to read the part number without even cleaning it....going to match it up with the cat from Steve D. and need to send back the Eberspaecher sytem I bought. Thanks to all for your input. Dave 84 325e.......love it. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 16:53:49 -0500 From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Amp Connectors Try: www.digikey.com --SC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Anyone have a good reference to an amp connector source? > >Specifically the harness end of a two blade wire lock type that goes to the Temp >timer switch on an E23 (green connector). > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 15:15:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Tire related info. Hi Group, I saw the below message posted on a BMW forum. I think it applies to all cars with the mobility kit. Would it really be worth the free tow to get a tire changed at the dealership?????? ********* I'm with BMW of North America, LLC. If you have the Z3 M series, the larger exhaust system in your car precludes space for a spare tire, and because, currently, there is not a suitable run-flat tire available, you've been supplied with the M Mobility system to repair punctures up to 1/4" wide. Additionally, if needed, you have the lifetime benefit of Roadside Assistance for flat tires only, offering towing to the nearest BMW center. In order to maintain Roadside Assistance for all other breakdowns, you will need to renew your coverage after your initial 4 years/50,000 miles (whichever comes first). If you have any questions, please phone us at 800-831-1117. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 19:20:07 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Amp Connectors I have found every BMW connector has a BMW as well as an AMP part number on it. I order them from my ETK (and actually ordered one of every connector on an E30 M3). Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Anyone have a good reference to an amp connector source? > >Specifically the harness end of a two blade wire lock type that goes to the Temp >timer switch on an E23 (green connector). > >-Kevin > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 01:18:38 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] e30 driveline questions Dave asked: >Are the nuts at both end of the driveshaft the same size? (guibo and diff >flange) >How many will I need? >(Any other fasteners I'll need to get?) As far as I can tell they are the same size. (M10) You'll need 6 up front and 4 out back. I might get some flak, but I didn't change the nuts when I did the same work on my eta last Fall. I seem to remember putting some locktite on the front, and nothing out back. (I have purchased some nuts for the rear of the drive shaft, because the original nuts are in bad shape, and I have undone them mutliple times in the last year.) >And will any molybdenum disulphide grease do.....or should I order >something from Steve D. or bavauto? (Bentley mentions Molykote Longterm >2...or equivalent.....what's the equivalent I could buy at Autozone? I >don't mind spending the money if there is better stuff to use.) Don't know the real answer to this question, but I purchased some moly from a local import shop. (A nice little place called 'foreign automotive.') The grease I got from them was spec for Audi CV joints. It was one of those 'got to put the driveshaft back in tonight' situations. >Is the centering guide tough to replace? (I don't mind doing everything >while I'm in there).....do they go bad often? You mean the center bearing? I didn't think it was too bad. I didn't have a proper tool to press the bearing on, but a 32oz. Gatoraide bottle worked well enough. Gilbert '87 325 '99 328i _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 23:10:25 -0400 From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [M3] HK system over-heating Has anyone had experience with this? About a week and a half ago I was cruising with tunes up and windows down on the highway and it was well into the 90s. The car stereo had been playing for about 30 mins. when it just cut off. Ever since then the stereo (I believe it is the HK AMP) over heats and cuts off in about 15 mins. of music play. The car is a 98 M3 Sedan with about 29k miles on it. TIA Clyde _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 23:21:15 -0400 From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [M3] HK system over-heating Has anyone had experience with this? About a week and a half ago I was cruising with tunes up and windows down on the highway and it was well into the 90s. The car stereo had been playing for about 30 mins. when it just cut off. Ever since then the stereo (I believe it is the HK AMP) over heats and cuts off in about 15 mins. of music play. The car is a 98 M3 Sedan with about 29k miles on it. TIA Clyde _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 20:39:40 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E30> M3 springs raise 325i (!) Hi Matt, according to the Amazing Golden Gate Chapter Autocross Database, the '86 Euro 325i has a curb weight of 2485 pounds, vs 2850 for the U.S. 1987 model. Yours is much closer to the weight of a U.S. 318i. The only thing is, I don't really know where we got the Euro data. But typically, when we get data on a Euro model, the curb weight is for a non-optioned model, or as they say in the car biz, stripped. If your car has any options or Gonzo Aftermarket Stereo System Complete With BoomBox Trunk Set-Up, it will weigh more. Can you drive by a set of scales and weigh the car? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 08:16:59 -0500 >From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] <E30> M3 springs raise 325i (!) > >So finally I get the '86 down off of the jackstands after several weeks >of surgery on many different areas of the vehicle including the install >of M3 springs and Bilstein sports. The front and rear end is sitting >kinda tall but I attribute that to the car not yet being settled. So I >roll the car back and forth, torque my wheels and go for a spin. When I >get back and hop out to admire my slightly lowered beast I realize the >rear end is visible sitting higher than before! I took out my measuring >tape and confirmed that the rear end is 1/2" taller than before. The >front is ever so slightly lower than stock. > >Before doing all of this work, I measured the difference in free length >of the stock vs. M3 springs and there was about an inch of difference in >the free length all around. So I was expecting under and inch drop all >around. > >Could my car ('86 Euro) be THAT much lighter than an early U.S. 325i? >Most spring manufacturers list one set of springs for all E30 ex. iX and >318iS. Who else out there is running M3 springs on their E30's and how >much of a drop did you get? Should I just get two 3" straight pipes run >out the back a set of Cragers and go cruise the strip? > >Matt Weimer >Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 20:46:57 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30> M3 springs raise 325i (!) Concrete is not a dealer-supplied option, nor provided by the factory. If you want concrete in your car, you'll have to mix it up yourself. And certainly the ride height would be lower after pouring a batch of concrete in the trunk or back seat. Scott "Full of Useless Information" Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 09:43:19 -0400 >From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30> M3 springs raise 325i (!) <snip> >Sorry don't have any concrete figures on 325i's. > >Hope this helps a little...... >Lee >88M3->dropped a little ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6652 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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