[uucdigest] Friday, August 15 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6664
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] Question on race seat mounting (yes, again...) [uuc] re: wheel weights [uuc] <E36M3> Tire choices? [uuc] POST THE DAMN FIX ! Re: [uuc] <E36M3> Close to Factory Fresh? (Was Tire choices) [uuc] E30 sloppy shifter [uuc] Defensive Driving School in the Bay Area? [uuc] Fixing cracked valve cover Re: [uuc] Defensive Driving School in the Bay Area? RE: [uuc] Defensive Driving School in the Bay Area? [uuc] Re: E30 Power Antenna ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 05:46:31 -0700 From: "Norm Reini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Question on race seat mounting (yes, again...) Call Sube Sports in CA, they work with a company that builds floor adaptors for mounting race seats in BMWs. I purchased a seat for my race seat, and adaptors they sold me were simple and inexpensive. Sorry I don't remember their name, but Chad will point you in the right direction: Sube: 714-847-1501 Norm 88 M5 - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Neil N. Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2003 6:01 AM To: UUC Digest; Racers Subject: [uuc] Question on race seat mounting (yes, again...) Group, I'm just wondering if any of you have fabricated your own floor mount adaptors to install side-mounted competition seats. My question, specifically, is to those who may have made theirs out of aluminum. Given the offset between the factory floor bolts and the seat mount - and considering the levering effect that has, upward on the floor bolts - what thickness of aluminum have people used with success? Would 1/2" be adequate or is 3/4" necessary? I don't want to use something that's going to bend if I get a 200+ lb. instructor. The aluminum that I'm talking about is 6061-T6511 (I think the 6511 part is right). For reference, VAC's plates are 3/4", but are only that thick because they're threaded holes, not thru-holes. (Thanks for the help, Tony.) Anyone BTDT? Thanks, Neil 1994 325is 1999 M3 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 08:55:56 -0400 From: "Jason O'Dell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: wheel weights http://www.wheelweights.net/ pretty good info. Jason (lurker) _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 10:26:31 -0400 From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36M3> Tire choices? Well, it's been about a week and a half since our last tire thread, so I thought I'd start another one. I'm getting to the point where I'm having to think about buying new shoes for my M3 within the next few months. Here's my question: Of all the tires out there, which one will give me the *closest* feel to the OE Michelin MXX3s? I'm looking at the Pilot Sports and the Yoko AVS Sport. I've got Sumitomos on it right now, and other than some loss of traction under acceleration (heh heh), I'm pretty satisfied with them. So I'll happily consider Sumis or Kumhos or anything else reputable. But I want to experience this car as close to "fresh-from-the-factory-floor" as possible! Any advice? KC Boyce '97 M3/4 E30 Eta Page: http://www.e30eta.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 10:44:57 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] POST THE DAMN FIX ! Excellent advice. > Brett Anderson > Powerless <almost> in Cleveland, Ohio <a big thanks to the guy who invented > generators> Finally got that dam*ed thing hooked up did ya? :-) I too was powerless last night so I rebuilt brake calipers to keep busy. In keeping with the spirit of this thread, I am convinced calipers can be entirely rebuilt by hand and the piston can be pushed into place *by hand* (without a vice or press, etc.) if you have everything right.... It isn't easy as I had issues with the two front E30 (Girling) calipers last night where the piston wouldn't go in (fully lubed with Ate brake caliper grease, new seals, etc.), I even tried my piston press and a vice....no luck. So, I fiddled around ensuring I hadn't messed up the seals (no problems at all) and tried again convinced I could do it by hand. The clearance on the piston sides to the caliper bore are tight, but, if everything is lined up justtt rightttt, they will go together by hand (at least it has on E30, E36 and E46 calipers I have done). You have to be pretty strong too but it can be done and I feel much better about it when I can do it this way. I plan on replacing the control arms/bushings on my 95 M3 due to clunking in the right front that got worse when I installed the new GC camber/caster plates (more NVH was being transmitted). The sway bars and links were eliminated as a culprit as I had removed them entirely. Hey Brett, I need to rent some more tools.... Regards, Rich - already has some of Brett's tools.... 95 M3 - needs a bit of work 90 325is - getting some fresh calipers/pads this weekend 89 325is - inheriting the brake components from the '90.... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 07:45:36 -0700 (PDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36M3> Close to Factory Fresh? (Was Tire choices) On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 10:26:31 -0400, "K.C. Boyce" wrote: > Well, it's been about a week and a half since our last tire thread, so I > thought I'd start another one. If you want to freshen your car, nothing works like a fresh set of Konis or Bilsteins. You don't even need fresh springs, just renew the shocks. Suspensions give out slowly, so you don't realize what you're missing until you renew everything. While you're in there, I'd look into RTABS rear shock mounts and anything else that looks tired. All that softening and cracking rubber adds up. Marc Plante E36 325i, 215k New Control arms....ahhhhhh Vienna, VA Marc Plante [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 12:10:09 -0700 From: "John Coffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 sloppy shifter Ok, next problem to knock out. The shifter is REALLY sloppy on my 87 325is. I'm looking to return it to the original feel. What bushings or items need to be replaced to fix this. - -John who doesn't know if he is shifting into 5th or 3rd ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 17:43:42 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Defensive Driving School in the Bay Area? Hey Californians, A very good friend of mine is searching for a "defensive driving school" in the Bay Area for his girlfriend-very-soon-to-be-wife. Specifically, they live in Menlo Park. As for exactly what kind of school, I would definitely say not something with track time. In his words: "I'm looking for something that will teach her to drive smarter but have enough orange cones so that she does not feel condescended or bored." She drives an Acura 3.2TL. Any suggestions appreciated. Stan ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 17:11:50 -0500 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Fixing cracked valve cover The M5 has a slight crack in its valve cover that extends outward an inch or so from the oil filler hole. This crack seems to be causing an annoying oil leak from around the filler hole. I've tried patching the crack with JB Weld on the back side, but the leak continues. The crack does extend all the way through the edge of the filler hold. I did put a new filler cap on, to no avail. Did I just do a bad job, or is there another way to fix this? Malcolm '88 M5 - a bit leaky in places '98 328i - pretty dry ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 15:29:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Defensive Driving School in the Bay Area? Hi Fellow Californian, The GGC BMW club has a Car Control Clinic. You can find it on www.ggc-bmw-cca.org. I attended a couple of them a couple years ago, and I learned a lot every time I went. And it is geared towards preparing you for emergency street maneuvers. Best of all, it is pretty cheap compared to the bondurant, russel, etc.. racing schools. Or if your not like me (=cheap)... Russel racing school at Sears Point has some sort of highway survival course. Or Skip Barber at laguna seca has something similar, too. Mike - --- "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hey Californians, > > A very good friend of mine is searching for a > "defensive driving school" in > the Bay Area for his > girlfriend-very-soon-to-be-wife. Specifically, they > live in Menlo Park. As for exactly what kind of > school, I would definitely > say not something with track time. In his words: > > "I'm looking for something that will teach her to > drive smarter but have > enough orange cones so that she does not feel > condescended or bored." > > She drives an Acura 3.2TL. Any suggestions > appreciated. > > Stan > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 15:29:16 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Defensive Driving School in the Bay Area? http://www.ggc-bmw-cca.org/DrivingEvents/CarControl/Overview.htm If he or she is a BMW CCA member the Acura will be welcome. Marco - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stan Jackson Jr. Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 2:44 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Defensive Driving School in the Bay Area? Hey Californians, A very good friend of mine is searching for a "defensive driving school" in the Bay Area for his girlfriend-very-soon-to-be-wife. Specifically, they live in Menlo Park. As for exactly what kind of school, I would definitely say not something with track time. In his words: "I'm looking for something that will teach her to drive smarter but have enough orange cones so that she does not feel condescended or bored." She drives an Acura 3.2TL. Any suggestions appreciated. Stan ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 18:36:55 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 Power Antenna Skip to the bottom if you only want my tip. Thanks to all for the replies regarding my antennas. I've typically found that the Bentley and Chilton manuals tell me one of the following: 1. The stuff that was obvious 2. The stuff that I already figured out 3. The stuff I don't need to know And did I forget to mention, they have wonderful details (at least they look wonderful) for projects that I am not willing to tackle. Given that I am so good at having projects blow up in my face (usually through no fault of my own, I promise!), I figure that I am generally safer without the manuals allowing me any further in. However, in this case, I decided to follow your advice and pulled out my Chilton book (it is not very user friendly, but it covers the 325iX, unlike the Bentley which my brother has somewhere). Gee, all you do is raise the antenna mast and unscrew it using the flats near the base (outside the car). Easy! In fact, pretty much what I originally thought, but when I tried it on the first car a few weeks back it did not seem to be getting me anywhere (ding, ding, ding, a sign here). That is when I said to hell with it and installed my extra antenna in that car. Well, now I am working on the second car. Sooo, I put up the antenna (3 sections are all that go up) and start unscrewing. Numerous pauses (should have been getting beer now), inspections, and 20 minutes later I am finally CERTAIN that SOMETHING is wrong. At this pont, the rubber seal between the antenna and the body has been completely destroyed. Of course, the extra grommet went in the first car and the original from the first car had ripped in half on removal. Pulling the interior carpetting back as far as I can without removing it, I can finally see the problem. Instead of the mast unscrewing, the metal piece just under the body has unscrewed from the mast casing. And yes, I do believe it is supposed to unscrew here, just not NOW. Time for the vice grips (should have had beer #2 here). Did I forget to mention that I thought this would be sooo easy that I had not bothered to get the proper tool and had simply been using an adjustable wrench? Well, with vice grips on the "ball" of the antenna base just above the fender and the wrench on the flats, I promptly slipped and beat up the flat section. OK, go get a proper open end wrench (another beer?, no, not yet). Oops, the 13mm is missing. Go down to the garage? Hell with it, 1/2 inch is close enough (maybe better), who needs the "proper" tool! That damn antenna did NOT want to be removed. I did eventually win the battle after another 10 minutes of unscrewing. And believe it or not, that stupid metal piece screwed right back onto the mast casing no trouble at all! The copper ground cable was now broken from being twisted (don't know why I could not feel that) and I don't have a rubber grommet, but one thing at a time here (should have been a 3rd beer by now). The mast is REALLY stubborn, but with it out of the antenna casing I am finally able to coax (tie one end to a tree the other to the dog and throw a cookie -- no, not really) it into extending fully. PB Blaster, metal polish, silicon lubricant, finally it is working well again. Installation is the reverse of removal, right? Thank goodness, not quite that bad. That antenna motor had no interest in being saddled with a white plastic cord being stuck down its throat again, but it finally relented (after being gagged on it) and swallowed up the cord and pulled the antenna down. Screw everying back together, repair the copper ground cable, and we're done! Except for the missing rubber grommet. Hmmm. Well looky here, that grommet that ripped in half (horizontally) from the first car fits in perfectly, UPSIDE DOWN. Looks a little odd with the part number showing, but it will keep the water out until I can get a new grommet. At which point, I believe that you have to uninstall the entire antenna in order to convince a new grommet to go in that hole ... A $40(?) used, pre-tested antenna is not looking so bad in retrospect. Guess I should have told you all about "Jackson" luck when I first inquired. Seriously, it was a pain in the ass but it is done. If you try doing your own, just be CERTAIN that you are turning only the mast! Stan - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 2:38 PM Subject: Re: E30 Power Antenna > Stan, you can buy a new mast for your existing antenna for about $25. I > got mine from Double 02 Salvage in Hayward, CA (510-782-2002), but I'm > sure you can get one locally. Since you have the balky mast out, try some > penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, etc) and see if you can free up > the sticking mast section. I think you'll find that the problem is not in > the motor. > > The only mast lubricant that I've found to work is the factory stuff, which > comes in little use-once-and-throw-away packets. The other things I've > tried, recommended on various mailing lists, don't last long enough, like > what you said. > > HTH, > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > 1990 325i, new mast 1 year ago > 1991 325iA, gonna need a new mast too > > >Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 01:24:57 -0400 > >From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: [uuc] E30 Power Antenna > > > >I've got a pair of 1988 E30 325iX cars. Both have power antennas that > have > >been balky over the last couple of years. If one sits too long or gets > >gummed up in the winter, I help the antenna by pulling it up while it is > >trying to rise. Then I lubricate it well. This never seems to last, > >however. Recently, both antennas decided that only three sections were > >going to go up. This time, no amount of pulling or lubricating could > >convince the antenna to fully rise on either car (I think it is the third > >section that won't go up). I happened to have one spare antenna, so I > >installed it in one of the cars. After removing the broken antenna I > popped > >open the case. Nothing obvious. > > > >Is there likely to be a simple fix? Is it worth the time to delve into > one > >or both of these broken antennas further? I've seen new ones for over > $100 > >(gulp), but I'm sure they sell fairly inexpensively at junkyards. Attempt > >to repair or just junk them? > > > >Any recommendations for a better antenna lubricant? > > > >Thanks, > > > >Stan > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6664 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
