[uucdigest] Sunday, August 24 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6694
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner Re: [uuc] Newbie M3 Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner RE: [uuc] E36 - fuel pump relay not actuating, help! Re: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating [uuc] Re: Hard Brake Line Needed [uuc] <Z3> trunk lock Q ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 14:55:57 -0400 From: "C. Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner Replying to my own post... Michael Kelley was kind enough to respond with a link describing primary chain tensioner replacement for a '95 M3. I will assume mine is the same. However, from this link and the Bentley, I can see that the part I received when asking for the "timing chain tensioner" is actually the secondary timing chain tensioner. It looks like this one is more difficult to replace. Do I really want the "primary" tensioner and got this other part in error? Thanks again for any advice. Chris B. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "C. Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 8:59 PM Subject: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner > > I'd also like to replace my cam chain tensioner in the next week or so. > I'll confess to not exaiming the Bentley thoroughly yet, but I looked close > enough to see that they don't address this as a stand-alone operation. I'm > assuming the valve cover needs to be removed - anyone want to comment on the > approximate time required for this operation? Any items of note that might > be useful? Anything else I should do while I'm in there? > > Thanks, > Chris B. <---- with quite a few new scrapes > '94 325i <---- with a new fuel filter > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 13:21:21 -0700 (PDT) From: willie yeo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Newbie M3 80 ft-lbs is the recommend torque setting. Will - --- Peter du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Took the plunge and bagged the '97 M3 last week. > Many thanks to those that answered the pre-plunge > questions. > > Have not received the manuals from the PO, thus I > need to know the lug > bolt torque. I suspect that the present torque of > 105 ft-lbs is too high. > > Thanks, > > Peter du Bois > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 17:18:44 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner "C. Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Replying to my own post... > > Michael Kelley was kind enough to respond with a link describing > primary chain tensioner replacement for a '95 M3. I will assume > mine is the same. Probably. Let me know if it isn't (sooner or later I'll need to do the one in my wife's 328i). > However, from this link and the Bentley, I can see that the part > I received when asking for the "timing chain tensioner" is actually > the secondary timing chain tensioner. You mean the $50 hydraulically tensioned piston looking thing that screws into the front-passenger side of the block above the exhaust manifold (BTDT)? If so, it's takes all of 5 minutes to replace and cures 85% (WAG) of all M50-52 ticking engine sounds. > It looks like this one is more difficult to replace. Do I really > want the "primary" tensioner and got this other part in error? I don't remember which one is primary and which one is secondary. IIRC, the simple tensioner on the side of the head is secondary. The one pushing up on the chains from the center of the block is primary and requires removing VANOS to access. HTH, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 19:03:15 -0400 From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 - fuel pump relay not actuating, help! I just had almost this same problem - ended up being an intermittent faulty ground to the main DME relay (center pin). Check for continuity to the three grounds on each of the main relay and the fuel pump relay.... - -Mike - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sumant Jayaraman Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 10:57 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] E36 - fuel pump relay not actuating, help! Gentlefolk, I think I will count myself lucky to have this failure at home... The car: 94 325, 2.8 long block (dont ask), stock everything else. I pull in just fine after a long ride with the toddler and all is well. However, 2 hours later the car just wont run - sounds like it is starving for fuel. Turned out it was a lucky guess. After some poking around I figured that the Main relay was OK, but the Fuel relay was refusing to turn on. Bad relay, right? Further poking around showed that the DME didnt seem to want to turn it on. (I looked at whatever pin it is that is supposed to go to 0V - it stays at 12V). I confirmed that it is not a bad realy by swapping in a known good relay from the other car (also E36), and reproducing the same failure. The car however ran fine when I bypassed the relay. So, I suspect a bad DME, as far as fuel pump relay functionality is concerned. I just wanted a sanity check before I do something silly like go hunting for a used DME: 1) Is it correct logic to assume that a harness discontinuity can be the only other source of this problem? 2) Anything else that I should first look at? 3) Is there someway to confirm that the DME is bad? Thanks much Sumant 94 325 2.8 (Zero emission vehicle) 92 325 alive. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 21:38:34 -0400 From: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating Do you know for sure that the engine is truly overheating? new water pump, so coolant should be circulating, new thermostat so that shouldn't be blocked, we'll assume that the radiator is not blocked since water from a garden hose freely flows through it. My guess is that the cooling system is either not bled properly, or is indeed working ok. How could it be ok and still indicate overheating you ask? check the plugs on the thermostat housing and make sure they are not reversed. The 2 plugs can be reversed and the gauge will move as it usually would initially, then it will read into the overheating range before its actually overheating. IIRC, the blue plug goes torwards the front of the car, and the brown one closer to the passenger compartment. (someone please correct me if I'm wrong.) Might just want to check to make sure things are plugged in to their correct plugs. - -Michael McCoy - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter du Bois" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 11:35 AM Subject: Re: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating > > Make sure that the fill amount of coolant is close to the specified > amount. Open the heater valve during the flush/fill, keep it open for > the drive-'til-engine-hot test drive. > Why did you flush the system? (I'm assuming a cooling system cleaner was > used) Was there evidence of fouling/corrosion? If there was none then an > internally obstructed radiator is an unlikely cause. > > How do you know the engine is overheating? Is the temp gauge displaying > an accurate temp? > > BTW, based on my experience, if BMW coolant is used, corrosion does > not occur. > > Peter du Bois > > [Steve Conner] wrote: > > >Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 20:26:09 -0500 > >From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating > > > >I am trying to solve an overheating problem in a 1990 325iS. I have > >changed the water pump, thermostat and flushed the entire cooling > >system, including the engine block. The only thing I haven't changed or > >verified to be 'truly' cleaned out is the radiator. I have had the > >radiator out twice and each time I flushed it with a garden hose. It > >didn't seem to have any trouble flowing all of the water from the hose. > >I am suspicious of the radiator because the lower hose never seems to > >get warm. Has anyone had a similar situation, or can anyone confirm > >that the radiator might indeed be the problem even though it appears to > >flow water pretty well? I would sure appreciate any ideas. > > > >Steve Conner > >Kokomo, IN > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 21:39:55 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Hard Brake Line Needed Thanks to all that responded. I was able to find an 8" (204mm) steel brake line with the correct flare and fittings at my local Advance auto parts. I also purchased a very inexpensive ( < $4 ) tubing bender, and I have now completed the line replacement. I actually accomplished a lot yesterday afternoon and this afternoon. I accomplished the following: Replaced factory M3 muffler with UUC Twin Silencer Exhaust Replaced rear springs with H&R sport springs Replaced rear sway bar with Racing Dynamics bar Installed new rear brake pads (Hawk HT-10) Replaced all rubber brake lines with Goodridge stainless braided lines Bled brakes Installed Motorsport x-brace Replaced right front spring with H&R sport spring (trimmed Bilstein bumpstop) Installed Dinan 5/8 offset camber plate on right front strut To do tomorrow after work: Install H&R sport spring on left front & trim bumpstop Install offset camber plate on left front Install Racing Dynamics front sway bar Install Hawk HT-10 pads on front Re-install front brake ducts (damn cones) Whew. And Barber Motorsports Park is Friday! Thanks again all. Twas much appreciated. Tom Melton 95 M3 82 Corvette Collector Edition 86 Corvette Z51 Coupe (normal track car) >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 08/24/03 11:05AM >>> on 8/23/03 10:11 PM, "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I was replacing the factory rubber lines on my 95 M3 and had an issue with one > of the rear hard lines. The line is #11 in the following pic: > > http://home.comcast.net/~tom_melton/ETKpic.jpg > > Even though I was using the correct tool for the job I had to finally use vice > grips to get this side apart. The driver side came aprat perfectly. > > Anyway, the ETK does not list a prt number for this line, just labels it > "pipe". I searched the full ETK for "pipe" and I got the following number: > > 34 32 1 153 653 listed as PIPE, M10/M10 - 205mm > > The line is likely close to 205mm long, so this could be the part, can anyone > verify this? Brett? Tom, The part number will come up on the ETK. You have to click on it, at which point you'll find there are two options listed: 34 32 1 153 653 (up to 8/00) 34 32 6 755 550 However the issue you're going to find is that a few years ago BMW stopped supplying hard brake lines like this as pre-formed parts. What you'll get instead is a straight length, flared at either end, with captive fittings. You'll have to bend it yourself to match your existing hard line (hope you haven't trashed it). This is evidenced by the ETK listing the same part number for each side, even though they're really mirror images of one another. Because of the tight radius compound curves and short length, forming the correct bend by hand isn't all that easy. You'll need a tube bender that can handle a small radius, and even then you'll end up finishing it freehand. I found the best way to form the line was to have both the bracket and the original line on the workbench, then roughly form the new line to match. Then I tweaked it by hand until it fit correctly in the bracket. It might not hurt to have an extra, just in case. Here are some tricks that have worked for me when trying to undo these hard line fittings. 1) Apply a first quality penetrating oil, such as Kroil or W�rth, and let it sit for a while. 2) Have a variety of wrenches available. I've found that both regular and flare wrenches have enough slop in them that they have a tendency to round off the fitting. Instead I sometimes use a regular adjustable wrench, because it can be tightened down to fit the nut with no play. 3) There's not much room to get a wrench on this little S-shaped hard line while it's in place. Instead undo the flexible hose at the body connection, unbolt the bracket from the trailing arm, unbolt the caliper, and then do the rest on your workbench. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:01:37 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <Z3> trunk lock Q well, I've had my '99 Z3 2.8 for about a month now.. it's way fun, I'm having a ball driving it.. *but* have found a couple of things that need attention :( I bought and installed the BMW keyless entry/alarm system- it went very smoothly and everything worked at first.. now I notice that the rear trunk doesn't lock/unlock electronically. It worked.. then it was intermittent.. now it doesn't. I'm quite familiar with E30 central locking and am assuming the E36 works fairly similarly? Should I just assume the door lock actuator is dead and swap it out? should I spend a bit of time investigating and hook a meter up to see if it's getting the +/-12v to move? It looks like there are 2 wires that power the motor part (momentary +12v or -12v like in an E30?) and 3 wires that signal 'lock' or 'unlock' back to the brain.. am I right? Can I disconnect the motor, hang a meter off the 2 motor wires and look for the 12v signal to make sure it's getting it? or are the new body electronics stuff different and I'll blow something up? Bentley isn't too helpful here! Looking at the ETK it seems that all E36 trunks use the same actuator (67 11 8 360 732), is this correct? Finally, during the alarm install, I needed to replace the small rear storage compartment with a panel to mount the alarm microphone and LEDs.. the panel uses 3 sized 'blanks' (instead of switches) and only 2 of them were available from my dealer- the other one no longer shows as available on the ETK 65 11 2 492 136 Panel When parts are shown (picture) on ETK but no part numbers listed beside them, does this mean they are no longer available from BMW and I'm on my own? thanks chris pawlowicz '89 325i, '99 z3 2.8, '74 2002 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6694 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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