[uucdigest] Tuesday, September 9 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6732
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] WTB: E30 M20 automatic transmission Re:[uuc] M20 leaks Re: [uuc] Cam/Head work [uuc] E30 stuff for sale [uuc] Re: Cam/Head work re: [uuc] [E36 M3] Head upgrade: Re: [uuc] [E30] Clutch questions Re: [uuc] M20 leaks Re: [uuc] [E30] Clutch questions [uuc] Strangely BMW-esque [uuc] Wheel shimmy ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 16:35:03 -0400 From: "Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WTB: E30 M20 automatic transmission Subject line says it all. Please contact me directly with mileage, price, and location (final destination: Westchester NY area). Car is an 87 325is if that matters. - - -Matt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 13:44:29 -0700 (PDT) From: igor koruga <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re:[uuc] M20 leaks So what is the 'trick' then - use silicone/RTV when installing a head gasket? Igor 86 325 <- about to get a new head gasket <snip> From: Peter du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re:[uuc] M20 leaks The head gaskets for M20 are pretreated with beads of silicone that does little, if anything, to prevent leaks. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 16:56:22 -0400 From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Cam/Head work Tom, It is possible as I have done it, but only with a 50% success ratio. The camshafts are hollow and will crack if you are not careful. I did not think that the special tools were required the first time that I did this either and had no problems. The second time that I tried it, CRACK! The camshaft broke right in two with no warning! Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 14:26:18 -0700 From: "Michael Andre" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 stuff for sale Detailed pictures available for all items on request. 1. Brand new Sparco front strut brace. New in the box. Fits all E30s. By far the best strut brace, but often hard to get. Pics available upon request. Red, lightweight steel. $110 2. Stable Energies Harness Guide Bar. Excellent harness guide bar fits many BMWs. Perfect for all E30s but many other models as well. Powder coated black, beautifully made. Nearly new, used twice. Adjustable width. Bolts between stock shoulder seat belt B-pillar anchors but still permits use of stock seat belt. If you use a 4-, 5-, or 6-pt harness without a roll cage you need this bar to correctly guide the forces on the shoulder belts. Also fit Acura, 911, 914 and others. Pics available on request. $100 or make offer. 3. BMW E30 A-pillar Dual Gauge Pod. New, rare, high quality. This custom BMW E30 gauge pod provides space for two standard 2.75-inch gauges. It mounts to the driver's side A-pillar to provide perfect heads-up view of essential displays of your choosing-shift light?, oil temp?, tachometer? Mounting screws and OE-appearance discrete screw caps are included. The black color is an exact match for E30 interiors. This item is new, unused, in the original container. 4. BMC hi-flow reusable air filter with maintenance kit. The filter Ferrari F1 uses. "Super flow, super light, washable. Used two weeks. A drop-in replacement for stock filter. In the original boxes with instructions. $25 Thanks. Mike A ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 16:32:06 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Cam/Head work on 9/8/03 2:40 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I know Brett at KMS rents the proper tool, but to those that have done cam > swaps, or head work, is this one tool required? Yes. > Are the cams that fragile? Yes. The camshafts are hollow, and have actually been known to break when the correct tool/procedure is not used. Twenty-four sets of valve springs exert a lot of pressure. > Or can one loosen the nuts on the bearing caps slowly, say 1/4 turn each on > each cap, and then again on each cap, etc, until loose? Each new stock cam lists for just under $700. You decide... ;) Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 14:35:14 -0700 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: re: [uuc] [E36 M3] Head upgrade: re: [uuc] [E36 M3] Head upgrade: When I had to pull my head I: 1. replaced the exhaust valves with the newer style that have concentric rings for surface turbulence machined into the valve face. 2. shimmed the valve springs 1mm for a bit of preload (please no abuse about this, if you don't like it, then don't do it.) That's less pressure than a high lift cam would put on the calve springs and lifters. I feel the preload widens the margin for error in the event of an overrev. 3. shaved the head to .016, just short of factory spec of .018. My machinist scribed where a .018 cut would go, and darn that sure got close to the valve seats on those small sharp angled chambers. Will be good for at least a 1/4 point of compression. (anyone know for sure? With a chamber that small I would guess it could be .4 or more) If you're building to stock or street prepared legal rules, shaving the head to spec is __highly recommended. 4. left the mechanical fan off. Along with this I crossed the wire for the high fan speed to the low temperature side of the coolant temperature switch. Now the electric fan comes on the high speed only. Maybe its overkill but its more peace of mind on hot days sitting in traffic. Also by removing the clutch fan less hot radiator air gets blown over towards the air intake. With these simple changes, first time you punch it at 4000rpm you _will feel the difference right away. Also I cleaned the piston tops and tops of the cylinder walls. While you're at it, its a good chance to change the water pump and belts too. If you have the plastic housing, change that too. Enjoy, 'jk ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 19:55:39 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [E30] Clutch questions OK, so are ALL 1988 325i, is, ic, iX flywheels the single-mass version? Are any years/models of the i-motor E30 cars encumbered with the dual-mass flywheel? Or was it just the later e-motor cars? Thanks, Stan > Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 14:22:18 -0400 > From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [uuc] [E30] Clutch questions > > I just weighed a flywheel from a 1988 325i. It weighs 18.5 lb, exactly what > the ETK said. The dual mass flywheel, used after 5/86 on US 325e and 525e, > weighs 27.5 lb. > > Gary Derian > > > > Get the flywheel and clutch assembly from a pre 5/86 325e or pre 12/86 > 325i. > > > > It's a lighter, single mass unit. > > > > Brett Anderson > > KMS > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 20:05:30 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] M20 leaks I would say this is very common. That and the rear main seal. Neither of my two existing E30's leak enough to actually drip on the ground (rear main seal or head gasket), though the underside does get oily. I just live with the leaks. I'm trying to stay away from engine DIY stuff myself, and I don't know what it would cost to have a new head gasket installed. Stan > Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 19:21:10 -0400 > From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] M20 leaks > > After looking at the engine a little better, it seems than most of the oil > is leaking between the head and block on the exhaust side. Is this a common > area for leaks and is the proper fix changing the head gasket? > > The seals on the crank and auxiliary shaft are in remarkably good shape. > > Gary Derian > > ------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 20:54:58 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [E30] Clutch questions The i and ix have the lightest flywheels, 8.5 kg. The early e had a 10.75 kg flywheel and the later e (after 5.86) has a 12.5 kg flywheel. The ETK calls virtually all of them twin mass, but I know that the i flywheel (well, mine anyway) is not twin mass. Actually, the E12 and E21 M20 has a 6.3 kg flywheel. In sprite of its relatively light weight, there is plenty of extra mass on the i flywheel that can be machined off. My guess is 1 or 2 kg. Gary Derian > OK, so are ALL 1988 325i, is, ic, iX flywheels the single-mass version? > Are any years/models of the i-motor E30 cars encumbered with the dual-mass > flywheel? > Or was it just the later e-motor cars? > > Thanks, > > Stan > > > > Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 14:22:18 -0400 > > From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Subject: Re: [uuc] [E30] Clutch questions > > > > I just weighed a flywheel from a 1988 325i. It weighs 18.5 lb, exactly > what > > the ETK said. The dual mass flywheel, used after 5/86 on US 325e and > 525e, > > weighs 27.5 lb. > > > > Gary Derian > > > > > > > Get the flywheel and clutch assembly from a pre 5/86 325e or pre 12/86 > > 325i. > > > > > > It's a lighter, single mass unit. > > > > > > Brett Anderson > > > KMS > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 08:21:54 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Strangely BMW-esque http://media.primezone.com/prs/bto/ for photos http://biz.yahoo.com/pz/030909/44718.html for text Marco ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:04:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Wheel shimmy My apologies to those on the E36 M3 list, as I posted this there as well. But I'm at a loss to the cause of this and could really use any input. ________________________________________ I have had a persistent wheel shimmy at certain speeds (55 +) that I do not believe is an out of balance wheel. I have swapped wheels side to side, and have swapped wheels altogether, and the shimmy is still present. This weekend the car sat in the garage and got waxed, when I drove to work this morning I found that the shimmy has gotten much worse. I was concerned that I had loose lugs, but they are all tight. I'm looking on thoughts of what this could be. My guesses: Wheel bearing - Do these slowly fail? I hear no sound coming from the corner, which I have heard is an indicator of a bad wheel bearing. Tie rod - I've heard talk of tie rods and drivability issues I think, but I'm just making a wild guess. Some bushing - I can't imagine a bushing would cause this sort of issue, but I'm really shooting in the dark. Something else - ? There's a tire / suspension shop a couple blocks away that does good work, but I don't trust them to diagnose the issue. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Jason ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6732 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
