[uucdigest] Wednesday, September 10 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6733
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] Wheel shimmy [uuc] <FS> E30 stuff (M3 and 325) [uuc] E46 M3 Hesitation Re: [uuc] E46 M3 Hesitation Re: [uuc] Wheel shimmy [uuc] 535i problem [uuc] RE: E30 stuff for sale Re: [uuc] 535i problem Re: [uuc] M20 leaks [uuc] Re: Gas fillers and exhaust exit (L or R) [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6732 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:53:29 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Wheel shimmy The mileage would be helpful and if the car has any suspension mods that would be helpful also. 1) Wheel bearings. They typically make noise, but to check jack up the car (use jackstands) grab the top and bottom of the tire and push with one arm pull with the other. If there is play then your bearings are going bad. 2) do you notice a lot of nose dive when you're braking? If so it could be the control arm bushings. While you have the car jacked up look at the bushings, they shouldn't have any cracks in the material. Does the shimmy stop when you get on the brakes or can you still feel it? Are you sure one of the wheels isn't bent? Even on the back of the car if it's bent badly enough you'll feel it. The outer rim could look fine but the inner part could be really out of whack. If you think the shop does good work, take it there. The BMW suspension isn't like it was made on the moon. If you don't want to then you should ask the list for recommendations for a shop in your area. You didn't mention where you live. Marco - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jason Knight Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 3:05 PM To: UUC Digest Subject: [uuc] Wheel shimmy My apologies to those on the E36 M3 list, as I posted this there as well. But I'm at a loss to the cause of this and could really use any input. ________________________________________ I have had a persistent wheel shimmy at certain speeds (55 +) that I do not believe is an out of balance wheel. I have swapped wheels side to side, and have swapped wheels altogether, and the shimmy is still present. This weekend the car sat in the garage and got waxed, when I drove to work this morning I found that the shimmy has gotten much worse. I was concerned that I had loose lugs, but they are all tight. I'm looking on thoughts of what this could be. My guesses: Wheel bearing - Do these slowly fail? I hear no sound coming from the corner, which I have heard is an indicator of a bad wheel bearing. Tie rod - I've heard talk of tie rods and drivability issues I think, but I'm just making a wild guess. Some bushing - I can't imagine a bushing would cause this sort of issue, but I'm really shooting in the dark. Something else - ? There's a tire / suspension shop a couple blocks away that does good work, but I don't trust them to diagnose the issue. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Jason ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 16:22:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <FS> E30 stuff (M3 and 325) I need to fund my race car project so I'm selling some extra parts: E30 M3 Kosei 15x8 ET22 with Hoosier A3S03s mounted 225/45-15s ---- $640 + shipping (Hoosiers have 4 events on them (Nat. type), these are probably the lightest and stickiest tires you could have for autoxing, go ahead and take FTD <g>) The Koseis look almost like new except for a few nicks here and there (probably from mounting). E30 M3 single adjustable Konis --- $270 (will fit some E30 325s as well) E30 M3 AFM --- $75 + shipping E30 M3 Upper airbox --- $35 + shipping E30 M3 stock front sway bar --- $40 w/used bushings + shipping E30 M3 blacked out taillights MHW brand --- $150 will fit '84-'87 325s and all cabrios (I think) E30 M3 stock wheels --- $150 + shipping (two are faded, two look pretty good except for curb rash on one, all wheels are straight, ran them on the street for a while) E30 325i DME ending in 173 Motronic 1.3 ---- $120 + shipping E30 325i DME ending in 153 Motronic 1.1 ---- $100 + shipping E30 325 stock bottlecap wheels (14") --- $100 + shipping Shipping from Detroit (48034). Carlos 91 M3 88 325iS __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 19:32:06 -0400 From: "Robert Tobin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E46 M3 Hesitation I have a associate with an 2002 M3, Build date Oct 2001. When he accelerates from 3,000 to 4,000rpm, he experiences a hesitation, or a sling-shot effect. The car bogs down, then takes off, as if it's momentarily starved for fuel. It happens in all gears. The condition disappears after 4k rpm. It also disappears entirely after the car has been driven for a long time (~50 miles). The dealer re-programmed the DME (he uses the term "computer") twice to no avail. They're now telling him to essentially live with it. Has anyone come across a similar problem with theirs? Thanks, RT <--- with just a lowly '95 530i 5sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 17:00:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Daniels <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E46 M3 Hesitation My neighbor, with an M roadster, same engine had a similar problem and it was a while before it threw a code. It turned out to be 3 bad ignition coils. Hope this helps. Jason - --- Robert Tobin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have a associate with an 2002 M3, Build date Oct > 2001. When he > accelerates from 3,000 to 4,000rpm, he experiences a > hesitation, or a > sling-shot effect. The car bogs down, then takes > off, as if it's > momentarily starved for fuel. It happens in all > gears. The condition > disappears after 4k rpm. It also disappears > entirely after the car has been > driven for a long time (~50 miles). > > The dealer re-programmed the DME (he uses the term > "computer") twice to no > avail. They're now telling him to essentially live > with it. > > Has anyone come across a similar problem with > theirs? > > > Thanks, > RT <--- with just a lowly '95 530i 5sp > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 19:23:24 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Wheel shimmy The first question I always ask is what is the frequency. Is it a shake like 10 to 13 Hz, or is it a hum or buzz at 40-60Hz. The first is tire/wheel related, the second is driveshaft/flywheel related. Gary Derian > My apologies to those on the E36 M3 list, as I posted > this there as well. But I'm at a loss to the cause of > this and could really use any input. > > ________________________________________ > > I have had a persistent wheel shimmy at certain speeds > (55 +) that I do not believe is an out of balance > wheel. I have swapped wheels side to side, and have > swapped wheels altogether, and the shimmy is still > present. This weekend the car sat in the garage and > got waxed, when I drove to work this morning I found > that the shimmy has gotten much worse. I was > concerned that I had loose lugs, but they are all > tight. I'm looking on thoughts of what this could be. > My guesses: > > Wheel bearing - Do these slowly fail? I hear no sound > coming from the corner, which I have heard is an > indicator of a bad wheel bearing. > > Tie rod - I've heard talk of tie rods and drivability > issues I think, but I'm just making a wild guess. > > Some bushing - I can't imagine a bushing would cause > this sort of issue, but I'm really shooting in the > dark. > > Something else - ? > > There's a tire / suspension shop a couple blocks away > that does good work, but I don't trust them to > diagnose the issue. Any and all thoughts are > appreciated. > > Jason > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 21:48:18 -0400 From: "Delford Chaffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 535i problem My '87 535i has become almost impossible to start. When cranking it sometimes stops cranking abruptly, then will start again. Tonight I got it to start and let it run until the water temperature reached normal. The rpm would vary slightly even though I was not changing the pedal amount. When I shut it off smoke was coming from under the car. I looked and the entire exaust system, from the engine to the tailpipe tips, was glowing red. Any advice? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 22:13:31 -0400 From: "Marshall Lytle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: E30 stuff for sale actually, if you are talking about the red steel sparco bar, these strut braces are easy to find. just call evosport (www.evosport.com) and give them $96 or so plus shipping and a new one will be on your doorstep. also, these strut braces DO NOT fit all e30's. in particular i don't think they fit 318's. and definitely they don't fit all 325's. the width between the strut towers on these cars varies, especially with the age they are at now. this sparco bar is non-adjustable. if your car happens to have the same strut tower spacing as the bar, you are in luck. if not, then you have some chassis bending to do. forcing them to fit with a 5ton farm jack is possible, it worked for me on my race car, but not for the feint of heart. no offense intended to the seller here, just a public service announcement from someone who found out the hard way. marshall - ----------------------------------------- Subject: [uuc] E30 stuff for sale Detailed pictures available for all items on request. 1. Brand new Sparco front strut brace. New in the box. Fits all E30s. By far the best strut brace, but often hard to get. Pics available upon request. Red, lightweight steel. $110 - ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 22:09:12 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] 535i problem Was it running roughly with pops and spits? My guess is the distributor cap is bad. Gary Derian > My '87 535i has become almost impossible to start. When cranking it > sometimes stops cranking abruptly, then will start again. Tonight I got it > to start and let it run until the water temperature reached normal. The rpm > would vary slightly even though I was not changing the pedal amount. When I > shut it off smoke was coming from under the car. I looked and the entire > exaust system, from the engine to the tailpipe tips, was glowing red. Any > advice? > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 22:10:05 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] M20 leaks Thanks. I think I'll change the head gasket and add some RTV sealer around the drainback holes. Gary Derian > I would say this is very common. That and the rear main seal. Neither of > my two existing E30's leak enough to actually drip on the ground (rear main > seal or head gasket), though the underside does get oily. I just live with > the leaks. I'm trying to stay away from engine DIY stuff myself, and I > don't know what it would cost to have a new head gasket installed. > > Stan > > > > > After looking at the engine a little better, it seems than most of the oil > > is leaking between the head and block on the exhaust side. Is this a > common > > area for leaks and is the proper fix changing the head gasket? > > > > The seals on the crank and auxiliary shaft are in remarkably good shape. > > > > Gary Derian > > > > ------------------------------ > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 04:39:14 +0000 From: "Evan A" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Gas fillers and exhaust exit (L or R) Another reason to put exhaust and fuel fillers on opposite sides is packaging -- there's often not room for both on one side, until you get into SUVs and truck-sized vehicles. Evan '99 323i - --- original message --- I thought that the primary reason that the exhaust is always opposite to the filler is for safety reason. Like minimize the chances of a spark from the exhaust igniting the fuel from the possible spill of a fill up. _________________________________________________________________ Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage. http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 22:39:59 -0700 From: Peter du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6732 I'd be rather leery of using silicone on a head gasket. As general rule silicones have poor oil resistance. Both Loctite's specs and my experience are in agreement here. I put a bead of Loctite #518 around all of the oil drain and supply holes in the gasket. Loctite #518 has a temperature spec of 300 F (as I recall), thus using it on a head, particularly near the exhaust side leaves little service temperature margin. Peter >So what is the 'trick' then - use silicone/RTV when >installing a head gasket? > >Igor >86 325 <- about to get a new head gasket > > ><snip> >From: Peter du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re:[uuc] M20 leaks > >The head gaskets for M20 are pretreated with beads of >silicone that >does little, if anything, to prevent leaks. > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6733 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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