[uucdigest] Thursday, September 18 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6762
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] [E36 M3] Cam install RE: [uuc] M3 Window leak problem RE: [uuc] [E36 M3] Cam install Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat [uuc] <e36> UUC Stage II Flywheel + M5 Clutch + USSE3 ? Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat [uuc] Re: [E36 M3] Cam install [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage Re: [uuc] <e36> UUC Stage II Flywheel + M5 Clutch + USSE3 ? Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat RE: [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:03:54 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [E36 M3] Cam install The S52 has small intake runners that restrict top end breathing. I think the Jim C kit is very good, it has all the stuff that one needs, and is matched together. Every so often BMW builds low rpm torque motors for some unexplained reason. The eta engines in the '80s and the M52/S52 in the '90s. An S52 would be great with an automatic, but a decent gear and stick shift the strong top end is where its at. Gary Derian > The cams are about $1200, the kit around $2900. My car already is running with a JimC intake and software. My questions are: if I put in only the cams, what kind of performance improvements will I see, if any? Would I need new software anyway to see any performance improvements? > > Thanks in advance, > > Andrew Skopp > 98 M3 > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:10:03 -0400 From: "M540" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] M3 Window leak problem Larry, My wife's '95 M3 has been having the same problem! Her car had been forever air and watertight until the driver's door was unceremoniously backed into a few months back. The door and mirror were replaced with new OEM parts but the old window assembly was simply swapped into the new door. The car has been back to the shop multiple times to get this repair right but it still leaks air (whistle above 45 mph) and occasionally water in exactly the spot you mentioned. I had the body shop put in a new door seal to see if this would fix the problem but it has not. The body shop owner (great guy, but frustrated with this car too) says that the angle of the window is adjustable and that they will need to play with it to get it to not leak/whistle. I have not had a chance to get it back in for re-adjustment however. He told me that he couldn't believe more M3s didn't have this problem now that they are getting older. He thought that just an aging/wearing seal would cause air leakage problems. Before you, however, I'd never heard of this as an issue. Anyone else have this problem? Or better yet, a solution? Kevin - -------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 19:39:48 -0500 From: "Larry T" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] M3 Window leak problem Car: 98 M3 Coupe Problem: Upon arrival at the Type O Negative concert Monday night, I noticed a dribble of rain coming in over the driver's sideview mirror backing. To explain the area further, the black plastic triangle at the front corner of the window, to where the mirror attaches. Right above it, where the door seals, some rain had seeped through. I was parked at the time, but it still unnerved me. I opened the door after it'd stopped raining, and I could find no fault in either the window or body seal. Is there anything I can do to fix this? I was mainly concerned, because the rain went straight down into the door panel, where it could get into electronics. Thanks a lot! Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:23:01 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] [E36 M3] Cam install Do not install the cams without injectors. Do not install the injectors without the correct software. Doing either will cause engine damage from running lean, or rich, or both. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Andrew E. Skopp > No real progress with BMW headquarters has been made in getting > BMW to pay for my cylinder head repair, though I expect some kind > of decision today. In the meantime, I have been flirting with > putting in a set of Schrick cams at the same time. They can be > purchased separately. Or, I have seen that Turner Motorsports > and others sell a JimC cam kit, with the cams, software, intake, > and a new manifold, and other misc. parts. > The cams are about $1200, the kit around $2900. My car already > is running with a JimC intake and software. My questions are: > if I put in only the cams, what kind of performance improvements > will I see, if any? Would I need new software anyway to see any > performance improvements? ____________________________________ 100% Spam Control by SpamEnder Free Download and Trial http://www.spamender.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:46:48 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat I believe Gilbert's R11000R is fuel injected. - - Rob - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat > Modern fuels go bad or stale after only about 4-5 weeks. You should remove > the carburetor and clean all of the jets. sounds to me like the float > needle is sticking and dumping raw fuel into the cylinder. I just did this > on two dirt bikes yesterday. > Kirk A. Gilchrist ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 07:53:32 -0700 From: "Clan Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <e36> UUC Stage II Flywheel + M5 Clutch + USSE3 ? After the last round of cooling system and suspension refurbishing, next up is the original clutch and dual-mass flywheel in our '95 325i. At 123K miles, the clutch is exhibiting hot "judders" or rough take up from a standing start. No slipping is evident, but the behavior makes it difficult to drive smoothly in traffic. So, I'm thinking that it is upgrade time, with an eye towards the UUC Stage II flywheel + M5 clutch combo, plus the USSE3 short shifter kit. I'm seeking feedback from listers that have gone this path (or part of it) regarding the overall effect of going to the Stage II flywheel + USSE3 short shifter. I've never replaced a clutch/flywheel combo in any type of vehicle before and most likely am not looking to do it here (getting the car high enough to drop the tranny seems to be a major challenge). But your experiences in doing this part would be appreciated also. thanks for reading, Mike - --------------------------------------- Clan Hood-Douda - Arcadia Farm Lacomb, Oregon ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 14:59:35 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat An update: An addition to this. I've probably run through that old gas that was in there. (I've filled the tank since then.) Also, the bike is fuel injected, not carburated. As far as misfires, it was probably missing a bit on the first ride, but doesn't seem to be anymore. What should I be looking for with plugs/wires etc.? Gilbert _________________________________________________________________ Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage. http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:08:44 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [E36 M3] Cam install on 9/18/03 8:45 AM, "Andrew E. Skopp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > No real progress with BMW headquarters has been made in getting BMW to pay for > my cylinder head repair, though I expect some kind of decision today. In the > meantime, I have been flirting with putting in a set of Schrick cams at the > same time. They can be purchased separately. Or, I have seen that Turner > Motorsports and others sell a JimC cam kit, with the cams, software, intake, > and a new manifold, and other misc. parts. > > The cams are about $1200, the kit around $2900. My car already is running > with a JimC intake and software. My questions are: if I put in only the > cams, what kind of performance improvements will I see, if any? Little/no improvement with just the cams. I have the Eurosport/Conforti Cam System - and it is a well-developed total system, not just a box of parts - in my 96 M3. I had the cams installed professionally before doing the rest myself, and drove around that way for a couple of weeks. Felt pretty much like stock. > Would I need new software anyway to see any performance improvements? Probably, although the OBD-II software can adapt up to some 10% I think. But the OBD-II cars are limited by a number of other factors, not just the cams and matching software. The cam kit comes with high flow (24# vs. 21.5#) injectors, a new inlet manifold, a 3.5" Euro HFM, a new airbox and ITG filter, a bunch of adaptors to make everything fit together properly, and of course the software to make it all work properly. Also about 100 pages of detailed instructions with photos. The joy of the cam kit is that it looks factory and drives factory. But a much better factory! Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:24:40 -0500 From: "Gary Vetick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage i've checked the archives for suggestions on minimum brake pad thickness for drivers' schools and couldn't find anything. so i'm wondering.....what is the rule of thumb? brake pad material = thickness of backing plate? is that measurement taken at the beginning of the event, the beginning of the day or at the beginning of the session? at what point do most students/instructors pull out the old pads? i've seen people use the pad all the way down to the backing plate but that never seemed like a good idea. (i've been replacing pads when the brake pad material = the thickness of the backing plate and suspect i'm throwing away pads that still have a considerable amount of life remaining.) thanks! gary vetick omaha, nebraska ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:55:49 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36> UUC Stage II Flywheel + M5 Clutch + USSE3 ? Flex disk. Gary Derian > After the last round of cooling system and suspension refurbishing, next up > is the original clutch and dual-mass flywheel in our '95 325i. At 123K > miles, the clutch is exhibiting hot "judders" or rough take up from a > standing start. No slipping is evident, but the behavior makes it difficult > to drive smoothly in traffic. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:54:56 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat Anything that would cause a misfire, dirty or fouled plugs, cracked or dirty wires. Spray water on the coils and wires and watch for sparks or St. Elmo's Fire. Gary Derian > An update: > > An addition to this. I've probably run through that old gas that was in > there. (I've filled the tank since then.) Also, the bike is fuel injected, > not carburated. As far as misfires, it was probably missing a bit on the > first ride, but doesn't seem to be anymore. What should I be looking for > with plugs/wires etc.? > > Gilbert > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage. > http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 12:07:30 -0400 From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat Then that is even worse if it is fuel injected, that mean that the injectors are sticking open. This will absolutely cause the hot catalyst. The fuel injectors will more than likely need to be replaced. I happen to have a cleaner, and someone in your area may also. You need a bench style fuel injector cleaner to clean these properly, if they can be cleaned at all. Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 09:31:33 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage One thing you don't want to happen is to have the pad material wear down so far that the pistons extends so far resulting in a fluid leak and then a brake fire. For my race car I replace at 30% of remaining material at the beginning of a weekend. BUT depending on your skill level, the track, ambient temps, brake cooling, yada yada can have a huge difference. I've seen people go through a new set of pads in a weekend. Novice drivers don't go fast enough to use up their brakes Expert/advanced drivers know how to go fast without using up their brakes. Intermediate drivers can go fast but don't know how to do it without using up their brakes. If you're a diy'er put the new pads in for schools and then when you get home put in the old pads for street use. Marco - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Vetick Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 8:25 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage i've checked the archives for suggestions on minimum brake pad thickness for drivers' schools and couldn't find anything. so i'm wondering.....what is the rule of thumb? brake pad material = thickness of backing plate? is that measurement taken at the beginning of the event, the beginning of the day or at the beginning of the session? at what point do most students/instructors pull out the old pads? i've seen people use the pad all the way down to the backing plate but that never seemed like a good idea. (i've been replacing pads when the brake pad material = the thickness of the backing plate and suspect i'm throwing away pads that still have a considerable amount of life remaining.) thanks! gary vetick omaha, nebraska ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6762 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
