[uucdigest] Thursday, September 18 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6763
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] re: //M3 head Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat [uuc] electrical gremlin resolved [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6762 RE: [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage [uuc] [E36 M3] Cam install [uuc] RE: service light reset [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 09:36:23 -0700 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: //M3 head re: //M3 head: check out the complete high performance head w/cams kit that Bekker's sells: http://www.bekkers.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BI&Product_Code=500032&Category_Code=bperformancehead Their description is: " Ported and polished, high performance cylinder head with valves, higher tension valve spring setup, titanium retainers, milled to 10:8:1 compression ratio, performance intake and exhaust cams. Complete with head gasket set and new cylinder head bolts, ready to bolt on." Total price is $3245. Ready to bolt on. Looks like a great deal to me. (No connection to the seller) 'jk ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:15:56 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [OT] R1100R Hot cat A rich mixture by itself will not cause a hot catalyst. The cat needs fuel and oxygen to get hot. A rich mixture shuts down the catalyst. Rich to the point of misfiring will overheat the cat. Gary Derian > Then that is even worse if it is fuel injected, that mean that the injectors > are sticking open. This will absolutely cause the hot catalyst. The fuel > injectors will more than likely need to be replaced. I happen to have a > cleaner, and someone in your area may also. You need a bench style fuel > injector cleaner to clean these properly, if they can be cleaned at all. > > Kirk A. Gilchrist > EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair > 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 > [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:46:26 -0700 From: Kit Wetzler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] electrical gremlin resolved Yup, everyone was right, it was a broken fusible link. I got 0wN3d by a $0.93 part. -kit, with happy 525i ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:52:24 -0700 (PDT) From: **Rahul** <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6762 - --0-1928169649-1063907544=:77293 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: - ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 07:53:32 -0700 From: "Clan Hood-Douda" Subject: [uuc] UUC Stage II Flywheel + M5 Clutch + USSE3 ? After the last round of cooling system and suspension refurbishing, next up is the original clutch and dual-mass flywheel in our '95 325i. At 123K miles, the clutch is exhibiting hot "judders" or rough take up from a standing start. No slipping is evident, but the behavior makes it difficult to drive smoothly in traffic. So, I'm thinking that it is upgrade time, with an eye towards the UUC Stage II flywheel + M5 clutch combo, plus the USSE3 short shifter kit. I'm seeking feedback from listers that have gone this path (or part of it) regarding the overall effect of going to the Stage II flywheel + USSE3 short shifter. I've never replaced a clutch/flywheel combo in any type of vehicle before and most likely am not looking to do it here (getting the car high enough to drop the tranny seems to be a major challenge). But your experiences in doing this part would be appreciated also. thanks for reading, Mike - - --------------------------------------- Clan Hood-Douda - Arcadia Farm Lacomb, Oregon Mike, I replaced my slipping clutch in March with the UUC stg 2 ltw FW and E34 M5 clutch, it is recommened to use the E36 M3 clutch clave cylinder for the non-M3 E36's. I absolutely love the set-up, i have Royal Purple tranny fluid in, of course UUC recommends Redline MT90, the fw chatters only at idle with the AC On, and its not that bad. regarding the SSK, i got a M3 shift lever installed with the UUC Delrin Carrier Bushings, the reduction in throw is awesome. i wud save the $$ and go the M3 shift lever route, go to www.understeer.com for more info on the cheap SSK route. while i was in there i threw on the UUC TM w TME's, if u plan to do that make sure u torque it to the correct setting, over torquing the TMs will result in increased vibration and cabin noise. email me if u want more info. have fun !! '95 325i with some GO mods - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software - --0-1928169649-1063907544=:77293 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <DIV><BR><BR><B><I>"[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]></I></B> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <P>------------------------------<BR><BR>Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 07:53:32 -0700<BR>From: "Clan Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]><BR>Subject: [uuc] <E36>UUC Stage II Flywheel + M5 Clutch + USSE3 ?<BR><BR>After the last round of cooling system and suspension refurbishing, next up<BR>is the original clutch and dual-mass flywheel in our '95 325i. At 123K<BR>miles, the clutch is exhibiting hot "judders" or rough take up from a<BR>standing start. No slipping is evident, but the behavior makes it difficult<BR>to drive smoothly in traffic.<BR><BR>So, I'm thinking that it is upgrade time, with an eye towards the UUC Stage<BR>II flywheel + M5 clutch combo, plus the USSE3 short shifter kit.<BR><BR>I'm seeking feedback from listers that have gone this path (or part of it)<BR>regarding the overall effect of going to the Stage II flywheel + USSE3 short<BR>shifter.<BR><BR>I've never replaced a clutch/flywheel combo in any type of vehicle before<BR>and most likely am not looking to do! it here (getting the car high enough to<BR>drop the tranny seems to be a major challenge). But your experiences in<BR>doing this part would be appreciated also.<BR><BR>thanks for reading,<BR><BR>Mike<BR><BR>- ---------------------------------------<BR>Clan Hood-Douda - Arcadia Farm<BR>Lacomb, Oregon <BR></P> <P>Mike,</P> <P>I replaced my slipping clutch in March with the UUC stg 2 ltw FW and E34 M5 clutch, it is recommened to use the E36 M3 clutch clave cylinder for the non-M3 E36's. I absolutely love the set-up, i have Royal Purple tranny fluid in, of course UUC recommends Redline MT90, the fw chatters only at idle with the AC On, and its not that bad.</P> <P>regarding the SSK, i got a M3 shift lever installed with the UUC Delrin Carrier Bushings, the reduction in throw is awesome. i wud save the $$ and go the M3 shift lever route, go to <A href="http://www.understeer.com";>www.understeer.com</A> for more info on the cheap SSK route.</P> <P>while i was in there i threw on the UUC TM w TME's, if u plan to do that make sure u torque it to the correct setting, over torquing the TMs will result in increased vibration and cabin noise.</P> <P>email me if u want more info.</P> <P>have fun !!</P> <P>'95 325i with some GO mods</P></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><p><hr SIZE=1> Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=10469/*http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! SiteBuilder</a> - Free, easy-to-use web site design software - --0-1928169649-1063907544=:77293-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 14:30:21 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage I'm one of the guys who runs pads down pretty thin. I have hit a backing plate more than once, and they slow the car quite well! As a racer, I almost always have time to change pads between sessions. As an Instructor, I almost never have time to change pads. As a student, you usually have time to change pads. That said, consider whether you WANT to be changing pads during the day -- it is kind of a pain. And remember, the less material left, the hotter the pad gets, the faster it tends to burn off. Somebody on the list is going to tell you that you are crazy to head to the track with braking material that is only as thick as the backing plate. I would start a raceday/practice day with that much, but preferably not an instructing day, as I would expect that I might have to change them. You have not filled us in on some critical details: which track (hard on brakes or easy on brakes?), what compound pads, what level student you are, and even what car you are driving. You can probably weigh these issues with the answers you'll get. Without knowing more, I would suggest that you install new pads. After the event, put the used pads back in and finish them off on the street. Unless they are cheap street pads, then I would probably just save them as emergency spares or throw them out. Stan Gary Vetick asked: > > i've checked the archives for suggestions on minimum brake pad thickness for > drivers' schools and couldn't find anything. so i'm wondering.....what is > the rule of thumb? brake pad material = thickness of backing plate? is > that measurement taken at the beginning of the event, the beginning of the > day or at the beginning of the session? > > at what point do most students/instructors pull out the old pads? i've seen > people use the pad all the way down to the backing plate but that never > seemed like a good idea. (i've been replacing pads when the brake pad > material = the thickness of the backing plate and suspect i'm throwing away > pads that still have a considerable amount of life remaining.) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 15:14:21 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [E36 M3] Cam install Brett sez >Do not install the cams without injectors. Do not install the injectors >without the correct software. >Doing either will cause engine damage from running lean, or rich, or both. isn't that what the O2 sensor takes care of? checks the exhaust and tweaks the mixture as req'd? and then you also have the knock sensor for the newer motors to back you up? we're looking at doing a 535i AFM + bigger injectors + fuel pressure regulator + cam swap into an M20 and from various places on the web, it seems that people just do it and let the ECU adjust itself.. one guy did all that, then used a dyno with wideband o2 sensor to check, tweaked the fpr until all was good.. are you saying no dice? chris pawlowicz '89 325i, '99 z3 2.8, '74 2002 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 12:21:37 -0700 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: service light reset My service light (1998 E36) is not resetting with the Peak resetter; supposedly a battery somewhere needs to be replaced and will require soldering skills which I am most capable of. I've got a record of boards I've screwed up so far. I got the soldering iron, solder, wicker, flux and alcohol ready. However I have absolutely no idea where this board is. Does anybody know of anyone who has a write-up somewhere where this thingy is? TIA. Pingger - 'your engine doesn't 'ping', it misfires. I'm the only one that pings around here and I answer to it when I'm called by that name.;-) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 15:24:55 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Minimum Brake Pad Thicknesses for Track Usage >i've checked the archives for suggestions on minimum brake pad thickness for >drivers' schools and couldn't find anything. so i'm wondering.....what is >the rule of thumb? brake pad material = thickness of backing plate? is >that measurement taken at the beginning of the event, the beginning of the >day or at the beginning of the session? >at what point do most students/instructors pull out the old pads? it all depends :) how fast the pad wears, what kind of pad, are you prepared to swap pads mid-day at a school? for newbies, we require that they have >50% pad left.. they generally won't eat that much over 2 days, so it's pretty safe one of our local tracks (Shannonville Motorsport Park) is tight twisty with lots and lots of braking.. advanced guys can use up a set of street pads in one day..start with lots or change mid-day. Two other local tracks- Mosport and Mt.Tremblant are a lot less brake intensive with lots of cooling so you can start off with less pad and still be ok. Even if you aren't using 'track' pads, having a set of pads dedicated to track use and then turning them into 'street' pads once they are worn down <50% works pretty well. If you put new pads in for a track day, swap back in the 'mostly worn' pads once you go home. I've seen a few of our club guys run down to the backing plates and then have to limp home.. it's handy to have a spare set of 'mostly worn' pads for that occasion also! chris pawlowicz '89 325i, '99 z3 2.8, '74 2002 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6763 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
