The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 248 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Brake Caliper Rebuilding, Fluid tasting
  Re: Wheel Bearing Project Goes from Bad to Worse
  left or right threads on lug nuts
  Re: left or right threads on lug nuts
  Re: Wheel Bearing Project Goes from Bad to Worse
  Re: LH Threads/ was Wheel Bearing Project
  Re: LH Threads/ was Wheel Bearing Project
  Re: LH Threads/ was Wheel Bearing Project
  Re: Dead 1995 E36 M3
  Re: Dead 1995 E36 M3
  Rear Wheel Bearings, the saga continues
  Fwd: How to manage wind noise on in-car video?
  Re: Fwd: How to manage wind noise on in-car video?
  Re: Fwd: How to manage wind noise on in-car video?
  Scott's Wheel Bearings

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 08:42:20 -0400
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Brake Caliper Rebuilding, Fluid tasting
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

When I was growing up, went with my dad to a local hole in the wall shop
to get some AC work done.  

Old fellow, about 70, owned the place, very talkative crazy guy.   About
10 people were there and they were all standing over this chevelle with
a newly rebuilt 396 that was supposedly going to be a 10sec 1/4 mile
car.    

The old man walks up, pulls the dipstick out and precedes to pull it
thru his mouth licking all of the oil off of it.  Then shouts "time to
change it, tastes a bit sweet!"   Being a kid, I was confused as my
father had always told me to NEVER let any car fluids get in my mouth
nor actually taste any of them.   Everyone is gaping at the guy and he
is still licking the dipstick, talking about how good it tastes. 

Turns out they had a new dipstick with maple syrup just laying under the
hood and he was talking so much, no one noticed he didn't pull it out of
the tube.   I think he used that gag on all of the new customers, some
of which he never told them the gag.  To this day back home some folks
will talk about the crazy old man who liked motor oil. 

Mike

-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
-> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Herman Chan
-> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 2:03 AM
-> To: Scott & Charlotte Miller; UUC Digest
-> Subject: [UUC] <OT> Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding
-> 
-> 
-> At 7:35 PM -0700 6/26/04, Scott wrote:
-> >"Honey, we're out of BBQ sauce.  What should we do?"
-> >
-> >"Well, I've got some brake assembly lube that should be 
-> pretty tasty!"
-> >
-> >I mean, is anyone actually tasting this stuff?  Where I come from, 
-> >whether this stuff is safe for internal use is not a big concern.
-> 
-> Well, the Permatex lube is dyed green, so I think it would 
-> better accompany items calling for a mint jelly.  The red 
-> Lucas stuff might work better as a BBQ sauce.  For waffles, 
-> maybe something from Red Line...
-> 
-> Herman
-> has unintentionally tasted coolant and ATF. 
-> 
-> Search the 
-> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> 
-> 
-> _____________________________________________________________
-> _____________
-> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of 
-> the BMW CCA.
-> 
-> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the 
-> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 
-> . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
-> 


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 06:11:10 -0700
From: Brad Houser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Scott & Charlotte Miller'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "'E30 Yahoo Group'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearing Project Goes from Bad to Worse
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Scott 
> & Charlotte Miller

> Everything was perfect and I
> was prepared to make short work of the job.  We started turning the
> threaded rod.  It tightened.  We applied more pressure.  And then
> there was a loud "bang".  Not exactly what we expected.  And then we
> saw what used to be the threaded rod, now in two pieces.  It snapped
> in half.  

Reminds me of the time I changed the flat on my mother's '72 Chrysler Town
and Country (like this one:
http://community.webshots.com/s/image2/8/21/35/41082135CezNht_fs.jpg). It
seems the lug bolts turned the opposite direction depending on which side of
the car you were on. I thought they were on pretty tight, so I got my back
into it, and "SNAP!" Broke it right off. 

I was 15, had been changing tires for a while. Never thought they didn't all
back off counter clockwise. 

"Um mom? You know that flat tire? Did you need all 5 lugs?"

Brad Houser


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:03:45 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: left or right threads on lug nuts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

If a wheel is loose on the left side, it will wobble all the lug nuts off in
a 100 yds or so.  On the right side the wobble action keeps the lugs tight.
Chrysler used left hand threads on the left side up until the early '70s or
so.  A superior engineering solution which ran into real world difficulties.
There was an L in the end of each stud.

Gary Derian

> seems the lug bolts turned the opposite direction depending on which side
of
> the car you were on. I thought they were on pretty tight, so I got my back
> into it, and "SNAP!" Broke it right off.
>
> I was 15, had been changing tires for a while. Never thought they didn't
all
> back off counter clockwise.
>
> "Um mom? You know that flat tire? Did you need all 5 lugs?"
>
> Brad Houser



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 13:25:16 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: left or right threads on lug nuts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Much to the consternation of new owners (and amusement of onlookers who knew) of
trailers equipped with those old-style Chrysler axles.

But we shan't name any names...

- Rob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [UUC] left or right threads on lug nuts


> Chrysler used left hand threads on the left side up until the early '70s or
> so.  A superior engineering solution which ran into real world difficulties.
> There was an L in the end of each stud.
>
> Gary Derian


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 08:37:42 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearing Project Goes from Bad to Worse
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

bicycle pedal threads are left handed on the left side also.  I've seen some
fairly interesting injuries caused by people not knowing that fact.

BTW - Chrysler's solution for the left side of the car is "safer" than the
current way of doing things.

Marco
btw -  fan clutch threads on the BMWs I've worked on are also "lefty tighty,
righty loosey"

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brad Houser
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 6:11 AM
To: 'Scott & Charlotte Miller'; 'E30 Yahoo Group'; 'UUC Digest'
Subject: Re: [UUC] Wheel Bearing Project Goes from Bad to Worse




> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Scott
> & Charlotte Miller

> Everything was perfect and I
> was prepared to make short work of the job.  We started turning the
> threaded rod.  It tightened.  We applied more pressure.  And then
> there was a loud "bang".  Not exactly what we expected.  And then we
> saw what used to be the threaded rod, now in two pieces.  It snapped
> in half.

Reminds me of the time I changed the flat on my mother's '72 Chrysler Town
and Country (like this one:
http://community.webshots.com/s/image2/8/21/35/41082135CezNht_fs.jpg). It
seems the lug bolts turned the opposite direction depending on which side of
the car you were on. I thought they were on pretty tight, so I got my back
into it, and "SNAP!" Broke it right off.

I was 15, had been changing tires for a while. Never thought they didn't all
back off counter clockwise.

"Um mom? You know that flat tire? Did you need all 5 lugs?"

Brad Houser

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 11:34:27 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: LH Threads/ was Wheel Bearing Project
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Re: [UUC]  LH Threads/ was Wheel Bearing Project:

Must be the same cyclists who put their brake pads on backwards, and 
don't check the tightness on their skewers before climbing steep hills.
OBMWC: after removing the fan, gain a free hp or two and avoid the 
headache next time you need to get at the water pump by not putting the 
fan back on on any later model that has an electric fan.  Been removing 
the clutch fan on every BMW I've had since clutch fans first came out.  
You can cross the wire from the low speed side of the fan switch to the 
high side, so the fan always comes on the high speed, for quicker cooling.
Barry

Marco Romani wrote:

>bicycle pedal threads are left handed on the left side also.  I've seen some
>fairly interesting injuries caused by people not knowing that fact.
>BTW - Chrysler's solution for the left side of the car is "safer" than the
>current way of doing things.
>Marco
>btw -  fan clutch threads on the BMWs I've worked on are also "lefty tighty,
>righty loosey"
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 11:44:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: LH Threads/ was Wheel Bearing Project
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> OBMWC: after removing the fan, gain a free hp or two and avoid the 
> headache next time you need to get at the water pump by not putting the 
> fan back on on any later model that has an electric fan.

Yep, it makes it easier when you need to pull the motor to rebuild it too after it 
over heats...

;-)

Personally, I will take the two properly operating fans over the "potential" for 1-2 
hp any day.

Regards,

Rich

'95 M3 - both fans in place
'90 325is - both fans in place



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 14:54:36 -0400
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'UUCDigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: LH Threads/ was Wheel Bearing Project
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> --- JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > OBMWC: after removing the fan, gain a free hp or two and avoid the 
> > headache next time you need to get at the water pump by not 
> putting the 
> > fan back on on any later model that has an electric fan.
> 
> Yep, it makes it easier when you need to pull the motor to 
> rebuild it too after it over heats...
> 
> ;-)
> 
> Personally, I will take the two properly operating fans over 
> the "potential" for 1-2 hp any day.

Depends.  Heard a lot of proponents for doing this on track cars.  Removing
the fan (thereby negating the need for the shroud), should actually allow
the car to pull more air more efficiently through the radiator.

Of course, if you want to idle your car for an hour in 100deg heat, the
mechanical fan may come in useful.  Not that anyone in their right mind
would do this to a poor, helpless BMW (idle a car in 100 degree heat, that
is).  That's what Saabs & such are for.......

> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rich
> 
> '95 M3 - both fans in place
> '90 325is - both fans in place

Lee
88 M3->both fans.....pretty messed up shroud though....have a new shroud,
but too lazy to pull the fan.  Thought of removing mechanical fan & running
a switch to the electric fan.  That fog light button on the dash doesn't go
anywhere anymore after all.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 08:20:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Dead 1995 E36 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Tom Melton wrote:

>I had a problem last night that continues on into
today.  I was driving my 95 
M3, build 7/95, and after crossing some railroad
tracks that cross the road, the 
engine stumbled once.  Went about another 0.1 mile and
it stumbles again.  That makes me start to worry...<

maybe a dead fuel pump? similar thing happened to me a
couple of months back on my 95 E36.


                
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 11:13:44 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Dead 1995 E36 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Tom,

given the possiblity that going over the railroad tracks and futzing with
the battery are connected to the symptoms it might be that the battery has
an open at one of the posts.
But then again "coincidence does not impy causality".

-Kevin




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:38:18 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Rear Wheel Bearings, the saga continues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

When I spoke with Bill Arnold this morning, I mentioned the broken
threaded rod from the bearing tool.  He said they break frequently,
that is why he keeps extras.  Well, that's nice to know.  But you
would expect the tool to last longer than 3.5 uses.

I'm now in the process of putting the car back together enough to roll
it onto a trailer so I can tow it over to Bill, so that he can take it
back apart again and continue the process.  Biggest problem with
re-assembly:  The outer half of the inner race is gone.  The inner
half of the inner race came out when I tried to re-install the hub.
I've put the old inner half of the inner race on where the outer half
used to be, and I'm trying to find a way to pull the hub/bearing race
back into the bearing.  Driving it on with a 3 lb hammer and a block
of wood was unsuccessful.

And my boss expects me at work some time today.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:20:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Fwd: How to manage wind noise on in-car video?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> 
> Group,
> 
> Any of you use an in-car camcorder to capture track
> day/race footage?  Are there any tips/tricks to cut
> down on the wind noise while retaining the ability
> to
> pick up engine and other sounds?  Do I recall a
> Scotch
> tape over the mic trick?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Neil
> 
> 
>               
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 
> 



                
__________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:53:45 -0700
From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fwd: How to manage wind noise on in-car video?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 10:20 AM 6/28/2004, Neil N. wrote:

> >
> > Any of you use an in-car camcorder to capture track
> > day/race footage?  Are there any tips/tricks to cut
> > down on the wind noise while retaining the ability
> > to pick up engine and other sounds?
> >

I use a separate microphone instead of the one built into the camera.  A 
cheap Radio Shack lapel style mic works just fine.  I mounted mine in the 
sunglass holder of my M3 with a little bit of velcro - picks up engine 
noise, and the comments from the driver and passenger just fine, with zero 
wind noise.  It also worked fairly well when I had it attached to the rear 
view mirror, but routing the wire where it would stay out of the way was a 
little more trouble.  Mounting the mic in the footwell, or under the dash 
should also work fairly well - just move it around until you get the mix of 
engine noise/driver sounds that you're looking for.

I've also considered getting a small battery-powered mixer and using 
multiple mics.  Maybe one in the trunk or on the back bumper, picking up 
exhaust noises, another in the engine compartment for the engine sounds, 
and one or two mics in the passenger compartment picking up 
driver/passenger sounds.  Mix it together and feed the results into the 
camcorder, and it should be pretty neat.

Jim Ochi 


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 14:28:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fwd: How to manage wind noise on in-car video?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I talked to one video maker who suggested using an earbud headphone as a very 
inefficient
microphone. Plug it into the headphone jack then putting it down by the tranny mount 
away from wind
where it would pick up primarily exhaust noise.

Doesn't capture dialog like Jim's system, though.

Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k [For Sale]
E36 M3/4, 49k
2002 Audi AR 
Vienna, VA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 11:14:24 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: Kevin Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Scott's Wheel Bearings
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Scott wrote:

> I've decided never again to attempt any job that requires a Special
> Tool, except for maybe the radio tool. 

Years ago on my old E21 it took me about a week to get one wheel bearing out.

I'll leave out the details on what didn't work (the hours with blow torches, dry ice 
etc).  The way I got it out (the last shot before I removed the trailing arm to 
replace it with the one I bought the day before at a junkyard) was to use the Dremil 
tool to cut three notches in the outer bearing race then use big giant three finger 
slide hammer from a tool rental place to pound it out.  I went through about $20 worth 
of Dremil tool cut wheels since the bearing race is hard metal but it worked.

Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA 50039



------------------------------

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