If you were to drain the boiler and then remove the heating element
that opens a 2" hole right into the boiler if you are interested in
looking at the insides.. Should be enough to get a pen light and the
scope in. Might not even need the scope at that point.

On Dec 5, 8:06 pm, ken k <[email protected]> wrote:
> This issue comes up frequently.  Here is my contribution from a thread
> back in 2009.  Like Ben we live in a hard water area.  I tested the
> solids in our Crystal Geyser water (varies around the country), dilute
> it to about 40-50 ppm, have done so for 5 years, no problems yet,
> still waiting...  read Jim Schulman's FAQ--it is referenced in the
> thread.
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus/browse_thread/thread/5047f48ee...
>
> Ken K
>
> On Dec 5, 11:25 am, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hi there Bobcat,
>
> > I know this is a topic of hot debate, and I don't mean to touch off a war 
> > here.....but here's another opinion.
>
> > I live west of Seattle, with fairly hard water.  We are always in the 8+ 
> > range for pH, and TDS run pretty high, maybe 200-300 or so.  
>
> > I had the softener float a couple of times in the past and cause a pump to 
> > burn out (sucking air and no water), so I removed it altogether a couple of 
> > years ago.  I use filtered water from the house supply, i.e. running 
> > through a 2-stage GE filter system that I bought at Home Depot for about 
> > $200.  So far, I have no issues with scale or clogging.  I am careful to 
> > drain the hot water boiler whenever I clean, to keep the solids from 
> > getting ridiculously high in there, but otherwise I have taken no 
> > protective actions.  I descaled once at about two years, and am due to 
> > descale again.  One of these years I plan to replace my brew boiler tank 
> > just so I can cut the old one in half and see whether the whole descaling 
> > question is much ado about nothing or not.  I also have a bore 
> > scope--anyone know if I can easily open a hole into the boilers so I can 
> > have a non-desctructive look inside?
>
> > I may well be sorry down the road, but to date the softener seems like an 
> > unnecessary part, at least in my particular location and water supply.  I 
> > have seen friends on well water who have rust lines in their toilet, etc. 
> > and I think in their case I'd probably use bottled water anyway.
>
> > Just some thoughts to consider.
>
> > bmc
>
> > On Dec 4, 2010, at 6:10 PM, Dan Hagelin wrote:> The way I do it requires 
> > that you have a suitably long piece of plastic tubing.   I attach the hose 
> > to the nipple of the softener gizmo, and then put 3 big tablespoons of salt 
> > in a full reservoir of water.  I  then submerge the gizmo in the reservoir 
> > and siphon the whole tank of salt water through it.  I repeat the process 
> > with fresh water and then at then end of the tank test that the last bit of 
> > water doesn't taste salty.  If it happens to still taste salty, and it 
> > never has, you can run another reservoir of fresh water though it.  
>
> > > I assume this process works, but I've never tested the water for hardness 
> > > before and after so I don't really know for sure.  It makes me feel 
> > > better, though!
>
> > > On Dec 4, 2010, at 4:15 PM, HERMAN wrote:
>
> > >> i always put mine in a glass of water until it fills and the just 
> > >> connect it to the hose. i'm sure there are better ideas but it will be 
> > >> full of air and your pump will lose it's prime if you don't fill it with 
> > >> water.
>
> > >> --- On Sat, 12/4/10, Bobcat <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > >> From: Bobcat <[email protected]>
> > >> Subject: Charging the softner????
> > >> To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]>
> > >> Date: Saturday, December 4, 2010, 7:06 PM
>
> > >> I just received a new softner cartridge, identical to the original
> > >> one, and there were no instructions on how to charge it for use. Can
> > >> someone tell me what to do before I put it into use, and what future
> > >> maintenance I'll need to do and how often?
>
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