The Saga continues.......
So, got that boiler in the vise (padded) WITH a rubber oil filter wrench and started to turn it (13/16 wrench)...... It turns, and then I stopped - the threads of the L pipe run into the electrical couplings for the boiler element - So THAT will have to come out first - and that looks like it is gunked up with some weird rubbery stuff. Plus, we are talking a big wrench or better, a big 1/2 drive with a 1 3/4 socket Hmmmmmmm. I think that I am going to phone a vendor (is it Chris Coffee or Wholelattelove that works on these puppies?) and see whether I can ship the boiler - heavy but a LOT less than the machine and have the boiler serviced. I mean, it is all doable I guess, but man, one thing just dominoes into another, and then into another. All I want is my sweet, 26 second shot through a naked portafilter again. Lord have mercy...... Craig On Mon, Feb 13, 2012 at 2:53 PM, CRAIG STOUT <[email protected]>wrote: > OK - so boiler is out - thanks to everyone here, and kudos to my buddy > Dave who gave me some advice over FaceTime (gotta love that iPad 2 - next > best thing to being there!). I will post the whole procedure with tool > sizes etc plus other minutae if anyone is interested. Some items of note. > > 1. NO teflon tape anywhere except for water line attachment on top - and > that waterline attachment is a BITCH to get off......... > > 2. on the bottom support stand that morphs into a L pipe where the water > comes out of the front boiler THERE IS (or looks to be) a plastic or Teflon > gasket. I have the boiler stripped now (it's a heavy little sucker) and am > contemplating ways to get support on it so I can torque the pipe insert out > - I am thinking maybe either padded vise or maybe an oil filter wrench > (rubber strap one) > > 3. Some of the electrical line coverings feel brittle, but I am assuming > the wire it OK. Checked everything for patency and it all looked good. > > 4. That boiler holds a ton of water........ better have more towels ready > next time....... (Sorry Honey) > > Thanks to you all - > > Call me Padawan > > Craig > > On 2012-02-13, at 8:41 AM, HERMAN wrote: > > for high pressure/temp lines we always use teflon tape with a good quality > liquid pipe dope. don't overdo the tape. leave the first couple of threads > clear of dope. then put on the liquid, in this case food approved, dope. > tighten it to the desired location for the inlet/outlet and the let it sit > 24 hours before pressurizing. you shouldn't have any trouble if you do it > this way. make sure the fittings line up correctly and never loosen to fix > an alignment issue even if it means removing and re-doing the installation. > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Dennis Keating <[email protected]> > *To:* [email protected] > *Sent:* Monday, February 13, 2012 11:32 AM > *Subject:* Re: My Baby has a leak!!!! > > for what its worth, i have replaced the heater element twice on the > steam boiler of my B1. i use the yellow gas tape and lots of it. i think > the tape squashes out to form a gasket, too. -Dennis > > On 2/12/2012 8:10 PM, AngerManagement wrote: > > PTFE tape performs very well for many applications, but many miss use > on coffee machines. I see more problems from incorrect use, than > quality fixes. And even when it is the correct solution, in many cases > it also comes back to the correct way of putting it on, which some > also get wrong. But after working as a fitter in the medical field and > working on all sorts of plumbing over 35 years, I still have people > with no experience other than google look on in amazement. When I fix > things the old fashioned way after being told I don't know any thing. > > Won't comment as to the ongoing debate as to FOOD SAFE, other than > even food is not safe if one treats it incorrectly or over indulges. > Same goes for many materials used in making and repairing. > > I usually purchase a selection of plumbing washers( both fibre and > Teflon) and also have a small 1mm thick sheet of ptfe and cut / punch > to suit, for any strange needs. I also still have some of the old > style fibre packing and some sealing compound, that on occasions still > gets used for those water mains jobs... Often works better than the > heavy grade ptfe tape :-) > > *****Note: > Have just restored a couple of old machines and the main boiler > gaskets and where the neck fits for the levers and e61 heads; are all > asbestos impregnated. Does it matter, nope as it is wet and any > particulates that get loose, would need to get through the coffee > puck :-) So it is all filtered :-) > > Get more crap in the lungs and stomach from eating off dirty grills > and breathing quality air in a traffic jam :-) > > > On Feb 13, 7:59 am, CRAIG STOUT <[email protected]> > <[email protected]> wrote: > > So I guess I will take it apart and see what this gasket should look like - > If I decide to go that route - are they available? The last thing I want is > to do it, and then have some funky taste in the water, although if I am > judicious with the Loctite, I won't get it near the threads that are close to > the water. As well, my buddy suggested putting teflon tape on the threads, > then using a razor blade in the threads to cut it back a bit - Jeez, what a > drag. So, this necessitates taking BOTH boilers off and working on them - Is > there other stuff that you guys are aware of that I should do that will > prevent problems in the future? (I bow down to the groups knowledge....) > > Thanks > > Craig > > On 2012-02-11, at 8:37 AM, John Brinkman wrote: > > > > > > > > > Looks like it is a Brewtus Issue, I had the same leaks on my one. > They local guys said that the machines didn't have any teflon washers in them > when they are built. > I was lazy and got them to sort it out for me :-) > > JohnB > > On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 7:14 AM, Mario German Mejia <[email protected]> > <[email protected]> wrote: > Craig, do not waste your time with just teflon tape.... > > I went through this ordeal and I spent 3 to four hour of frustation just > to find out that it would leak again......... > > The big problem, at least on my Brewtus III was the lack of a teflon gasket. > > Try Loctite 567 (1000 PSI pressure and 400F + safe for water contact). > Just make sure you allow enough time to fully cure ( 72 hours) without > turning your machine on. I know that it will be endless but it is worth. > Otherwise, it will leak again. It happened to me and I learned the lesson in > a hard way.... > > Finally, you have to run several liters of water through it to get rid of > that funky taste...... > > I ended up selling it after testing it for one month. > > Good luck > From: Craig Stout <[email protected]> <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Sent: Friday, February 10, 2012 9:56 PM > Subject: Re: My Baby has a leak!!!! > > Guess I am going to have to get in there and get my hands dirty - with > respect to Teflon tape - standard heat resistant tape, or is there a special > food safe one? And hey, many thanks for the quick response! > > Craig > > On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 3:44 PM, Ira <[email protected]> > <[email protected]> wrote: > At 03:32 PM 2/10/2012, you wrote: > Hi Ira - nope, Insulation is not wet - as far as I can tell, the primary leak > is coming from where the bottom tube comes out of the front boiler, and the > secondary leak is coming from just below the nut that screws into the back > boiler > > If it's pipe threads, Loctite 565 or 567 is the proper stuff, if it's a > gasket, it gets harder, as you need it the right thickness so it aims the > right way just when it gets tight. I have a couple sticks of Teflon rod and a > small lathe I use when I have that problem. > > Teflon tape might work depending on what it looks like when you get it > apart, just make sure you start wrapping 1 thread back so none gets in the > boiler > > Ira > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. 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