They (Furneco) have 3 websites and the search function when you input the
part number never seems to find a result so I am posting this here in case
someone else is looking for it in the future:

http://instrumentationcanada.com/products/ako-13120

Today's price is $91

1) Ira already covered the fact that they come set to refrigerate mode and
you need to reverse it.

2) Also covered is that the stock controller was hacked to lie about the
actual temp and ignore the drift that happens.


As for the pump sound, have you replaced the mounts, have you made sure
that the top of the pump is not contacting the water reservoir box/shield?
any wires?

I mounted my pump on a sorbothane pad, cut a notch in the shield to provide
extra clearance, and tied the wires up so that they would not transfer
vibration and it made a huge difference. Afterward it sounded as quite as
the rotor pump machine.



On Mon, Feb 16, 2015 at 1:53 PM, herman dickens <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Not sure about the pump. I've replaced mine twice, at least, since I got
> mine but it was one of the first b II's. As long as everything else seems
> fine and the shots are good I'd leave it alone. You might want to get a
> spare pump just in case. I know Chris's has them as well as wll.
>
> On Mon, Feb 16, 2015 at 4:09 PM, Benjamin Piff <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Man, I can't tell you how much I appreciated hearing that, right after I
>> got off of an unsatisfying phone call with WLL. The tech really just
>> reiterated that it might be a failing heating element causing a bit of
>> extra current to go into the heating, otherwise he spoke to the inferiority
>> of the controller design and that I should just buy the new PID conversion
>> so I don't have to guess. I wonder if this means the old controller is
>> still fine? Will definitely hang onto it, because these surely aren't
>> getting easier to find. I pulled a shot and filmed it, not a crema heavy
>> bean but the drink tasted basically the same as what I get out of my
>> Vetrano 2B.
>>
>> But what do you make of the pump sound? http://youtu.be/wYXOiBWETBA Sure
>> would be nice to have that pump pressure gauge. I do also have a
>> portafilter mounted pressure gauge I could test with, but I wonder if this
>> means the pump is on its way out, or no big deal in your experiences.
>>
>> On Monday, February 16, 2015 at 12:34:59 PM UTC-8, herman dickens wrote:
>>>
>>> Mine does that. After installing and talking with the tech people they
>>> said that was normal. I think the original one somehow masked that temp
>>> rise and so to our eyes it seemed to work better. Don't worry about it
>>> because they told me it always did that before it just didn't show the
>>> overshoot on the original.
>>> Herman
>>>
>>> On Mon, Feb 16, 2015 at 2:53 PM, Benjamin Piff <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Cool! That was much easier than I expected, just scrolled down and
>>>> changed P0 value. Now it stops heating at the desired temp, but for some
>>>> reason the temperature then climbs 4-5 degrees higher after the heating
>>>> light turns off. Has anyone had that issue? I recall that being one of the
>>>> main reasons I replaced the controller in the first place, maybe the sensor
>>>> isn't far enough into the boiler?
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 16, 2015 at 11:03:05 AM UTC-8, Ira wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>  Hello Benjamin,
>>>>>
>>>>> Monday, February 16, 2015, 10:12:43 AM, you wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>  5.2 parameters configuration, level 1 and level 2 parameters
>>>>> It's not requesting a password, and I didn't want to get in deeper
>>>>> than I needed to. I can include a pic of the instructions if that's 
>>>>> helpful.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Mine is set like this:
>>>>>
>>>>> PV 0
>>>>>
>>>>> L5 0
>>>>> L6 0
>>>>>
>>>>> d0 1
>>>>> d1 0
>>>>> d2 2
>>>>> d3 5
>>>>>
>>>>> C0 -6
>>>>> C1 1C2 99
>>>>> C3 -50
>>>>> C4 0
>>>>> C5 0
>>>>> C7 0
>>>>> C8 1
>>>>>
>>>>> P0 1
>>>>> P1 0
>>>>> P2 0
>>>>> P3 0
>>>>> P5 0
>>>>> P7 0
>>>>>
>>>>> -- Ira
>>>>>
>>>>  --
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>>>
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