I used Loctite paste, 442, I think.  I'd have to double check.  I tried Teflon 
tape and they both leak rather quickly.

> On Jul 10, 2015, at 1:59 PM, Ben McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> I have the machine completely disassembled and in the process of cleaning it. 
> Even the group is torn down. Collett the ultimate descaling and backflushing. 
> What is your favorite method for reinstalling the heating elements? Teflon 
> tape, paste, combination?
> best
> Bmc
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:27, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>> OK.  Wow.  A quick lesson to share.
>> 
>> So I called WLL, and she said they usually try a reset on the high limit 
>> switch before reversing wires on the p-stat.  As it were, I had pushed the 
>> tiny pink/orange button on that before reversing wires, and that actually 
>> reset the switch so the reversed wires on the pstat gave a false positive.
>> 
>> So, with wires back in correct locations on the pstat, I pushed on the high 
>> limit reset with a paperclip as suggested, and the machine was working.  The 
>> plastic of the button was fragile and the whole thing pushed into the switch 
>> housing.  There was a quick ground fault that popped my GFI, and without 
>> thinking too much about it, I reset the GFI and the boiler kept heating. 
>> 
>> As it turns out, when the switch broke and caused the fault, it was 
>> disabled.  As I was talking to WLL about another question, the steam boiler 
>> heated all the way, and passed right on by its normal 1.45 bar, until the 
>> mechanical over-pressure valve blew.  HOLY SHIT is that exciting, especially 
>> with the machine cover off.  Fortunately I was a few feet away--it blows 
>> steam in extravagant form in six directions at once.  My total fear of 
>> pressure vessels is even stronger now...but very grateful some engineer 
>> added a fail-safe for when the electronics fail.  As a side note, the 
>> blowoff included a lot of thick grey sludge--a lot like oatmeal without the 
>> chunks.  Which made me finally decided to get off my lazy a$$ and pull the 
>> clogged hot water wand.
>> 
>> No surprise, it is stopped end-to-end with the same thick grey sludge.  That 
>> is some seriously high total dissolved solids, since it's been clogged for 
>> about three years.  The good news is, pipe cleaners and an air compressor 
>> had it opened up in five minutes.  I'm moving on to boilers now, as I'm sure 
>> they're totally nasty also.  Pictures to follow.
>> 
>> Lastly--I've posted before, lamenting the fact that when the steam or water 
>> wand seals fail, you have to buy a $14 part instead of the 5-cent white 
>> teflon disc on the end.  Finally got WLL to sell me those by themselves, for 
>> the low low price of $5.71 each.  Ridiculous, but I guess it beats $14.  Ah 
>> well.
>> 
>> All the best and more to follow.
>> bmc
>> 
>> Sent from my apple IIe
>> 
>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 08:50, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Yeah, that was my thought/concern--perhaps both heating at once--not sure 
>>> if there's any way that can happen via a fault.  Anyone know?  I'll try WLL 
>>> at some point also.
>>> best,
>>> bmc
>>> 
>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>> 
>>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 08:30, Graeme Burton <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hi Benjamin,
>>>> 
>>>> Brew heat light will be on because PID is calling for heat - it won’t be 
>>>> getting any though. Probably heating through the HX as you suggest.
>>>> 
>>>> Yes will work but it’s giving priority to the brew boiler.  I would leave 
>>>> the steam boiler disconnected in case the switch is completely stuffed 
>>>> somehow - hmmm is it possible both boilers are heating and thats why the 
>>>> cord is hot?  Could just try adjusting the pstat to see if it is just 
>>>> sticky and frees up but should replace as its an indication it has become 
>>>> u/s or at least unreliable.
>>>> 
>>>> Graeme
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On 10 Jul 2015, at 11:23 pm, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> OK--reversed the NC and NO, and the steam red light came on, and it 
>>>>> started heating.  Interestingly, at the same time, the brew boiler light 
>>>>> on the PID display stayed on steady, and though I know it shouldn't 
>>>>> actually be heating, the temperature was climbing.  Perhaps from the HX 
>>>>> circulating a bit?
>>>>> 
>>>>> When I went to unplug the unit again at the wall outlet, the power cord 
>>>>> was very hot, almost too hot to touch.  I don't ever touch the cord on a 
>>>>> daily basis, so I have no idea whether this is normal for the machine 
>>>>> during initial heating, but seemed pretty hot.
>>>>> 
>>>>> So Graeme, would this test indicate the p-stat needs replacement, or is 
>>>>> there a fix for a stuck p-stat?  And will the machine function with these 
>>>>> wires reversed until a new pstat arrives (sorry, weak on pstat theory...)
>>>>> 
>>>>> best to all,
>>>>> bmc
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 08:15, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Thanks Graeme.  I forgot to mention that I installed a Jaeger as well, 
>>>>>> but it's also about 5-6 yrs old.  Will try...
>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 07:53, Graeme Burton <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sounds like pstat might have got stuck in position as if pressure set 
>>>>>>> point has been reached. Can test by switching the NC and NO wires on 
>>>>>>> the Pstat to reverse it's normal operation. 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> IMO much cheaper to repair and descale than buying another machine.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Graeme
>>>>>>> Original Message  
>>>>>>> From: Benjamin McCafferty
>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, 10 July 2015 22:43
>>>>>>> To: [email protected]
>>>>>>> Reply To: [email protected]
>>>>>>> Subject: Dead steam boiler, but...
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Morning all,
>>>>>>> Woke up to the dreaded cold steam boiler this morning; B2 that's about 
>>>>>>> 7-8 years old with PID and rotary pump upgrades that I did maybe 5 
>>>>>>> years ago. I did some quick searching in the archives and found Eric's 
>>>>>>> excellent piece on replacing elements. 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> This is my first time to troubleshoot a dead boiler, so a couple of 
>>>>>>> notes/questions.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> First, my brew boiler is at normal temp and recovers when I pull a 
>>>>>>> shot. With the steam boiler getting heating prioritiy, and not hot, how 
>>>>>>> is this possible? For what it's worth, the red light for the steam 
>>>>>>> boiler never comes on.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Second, I found Ira's comments about testing the boiler, but open to 
>>>>>>> any suggestions on how to quickly diagnose the element, pressure stat, 
>>>>>>> etc. and any other related parts.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Third, is it worth fixing this machine, i.e. cost vs. expected life, 
>>>>>>> etc. For example, will there come a day when the E61 group clogs (like 
>>>>>>> my hot water line) and is no longer useable, etc. Or would a 
>>>>>>> replacement of elements, p stat, etc. give this machine another 
>>>>>>> near-decade of life?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> All the best as always,
>>>>>>> Ben McCafferty
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>> 
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