Thanks Brian.  I ended up using yellow teflon tape--rated to 10,000 psi (!).  I 
guess that might do...

I used a strong solution of citric on the boilers and elements, and cafiza on 
the rest.  Boiled the group for an hour in cafiza and it is like new.  The 
elements and other parts lost their plating and are copper now--hope I haven't 
screwed myself there, but we'll see.  All is back together and ready for new 
high-limit switches and thermocouple.

best to all,
bmc

Sent from my apple IIe

> On Jul 10, 2015, at 13:19, Brian Thoman <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> I used Loctite paste, 442, I think.  I'd have to double check.  I tried 
> Teflon tape and they both leak rather quickly.
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 1:59 PM, Ben McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>> I have the machine completely disassembled and in the process of cleaning 
>> it. Even the group is torn down. Collett the ultimate descaling and 
>> backflushing. What is your favorite method for reinstalling the heating 
>> elements? Teflon tape, paste, combination?
>> best
>> Bmc
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:27, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> 
>>> OK.  Wow.  A quick lesson to share.
>>> 
>>> So I called WLL, and she said they usually try a reset on the high limit 
>>> switch before reversing wires on the p-stat.  As it were, I had pushed the 
>>> tiny pink/orange button on that before reversing wires, and that actually 
>>> reset the switch so the reversed wires on the pstat gave a false positive.
>>> 
>>> So, with wires back in correct locations on the pstat, I pushed on the high 
>>> limit reset with a paperclip as suggested, and the machine was working.  
>>> The plastic of the button was fragile and the whole thing pushed into the 
>>> switch housing.  There was a quick ground fault that popped my GFI, and 
>>> without thinking too much about it, I reset the GFI and the boiler kept 
>>> heating. 
>>> 
>>> As it turns out, when the switch broke and caused the fault, it was 
>>> disabled.  As I was talking to WLL about another question, the steam boiler 
>>> heated all the way, and passed right on by its normal 1.45 bar, until the 
>>> mechanical over-pressure valve blew.  HOLY SHIT is that exciting, 
>>> especially with the machine cover off.  Fortunately I was a few feet 
>>> away--it blows steam in extravagant form in six directions at once.  My 
>>> total fear of pressure vessels is even stronger now...but very grateful 
>>> some engineer added a fail-safe for when the electronics fail.  As a side 
>>> note, the blowoff included a lot of thick grey sludge--a lot like oatmeal 
>>> without the chunks.  Which made me finally decided to get off my lazy a$$ 
>>> and pull the clogged hot water wand.
>>> 
>>> No surprise, it is stopped end-to-end with the same thick grey sludge.  
>>> That is some seriously high total dissolved solids, since it's been clogged 
>>> for about three years.  The good news is, pipe cleaners and an air 
>>> compressor had it opened up in five minutes.  I'm moving on to boilers now, 
>>> as I'm sure they're totally nasty also.  Pictures to follow.
>>> 
>>> Lastly--I've posted before, lamenting the fact that when the steam or water 
>>> wand seals fail, you have to buy a $14 part instead of the 5-cent white 
>>> teflon disc on the end.  Finally got WLL to sell me those by themselves, 
>>> for the low low price of $5.71 each.  Ridiculous, but I guess it beats $14. 
>>>  Ah well.
>>> 
>>> All the best and more to follow.
>>> bmc
>>> 
>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>> 
>>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 08:50, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Yeah, that was my thought/concern--perhaps both heating at once--not sure 
>>>> if there's any way that can happen via a fault.  Anyone know?  I'll try 
>>>> WLL at some point also.
>>>> best,
>>>> bmc
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 08:30, Graeme Burton <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Benjamin,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Brew heat light will be on because PID is calling for heat - it won’t be 
>>>>> getting any though. Probably heating through the HX as you suggest.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Yes will work but it’s giving priority to the brew boiler.  I would leave 
>>>>> the steam boiler disconnected in case the switch is completely stuffed 
>>>>> somehow - hmmm is it possible both boilers are heating and thats why the 
>>>>> cord is hot?  Could just try adjusting the pstat to see if it is just 
>>>>> sticky and frees up but should replace as its an indication it has become 
>>>>> u/s or at least unreliable.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Graeme
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 10 Jul 2015, at 11:23 pm, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> OK--reversed the NC and NO, and the steam red light came on, and it 
>>>>>> started heating.  Interestingly, at the same time, the brew boiler light 
>>>>>> on the PID display stayed on steady, and though I know it shouldn't 
>>>>>> actually be heating, the temperature was climbing.  Perhaps from the HX 
>>>>>> circulating a bit?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> When I went to unplug the unit again at the wall outlet, the power cord 
>>>>>> was very hot, almost too hot to touch.  I don't ever touch the cord on a 
>>>>>> daily basis, so I have no idea whether this is normal for the machine 
>>>>>> during initial heating, but seemed pretty hot.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> So Graeme, would this test indicate the p-stat needs replacement, or is 
>>>>>> there a fix for a stuck p-stat?  And will the machine function with 
>>>>>> these wires reversed until a new pstat arrives (sorry, weak on pstat 
>>>>>> theory...)
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> best to all,
>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 08:15, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Thanks Graeme.  I forgot to mention that I installed a Jaeger as well, 
>>>>>>> but it's also about 5-6 yrs old.  Will try...
>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 07:53, Graeme Burton <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sounds like pstat might have got stuck in position as if pressure set 
>>>>>>>> point has been reached. Can test by switching the NC and NO wires on 
>>>>>>>> the Pstat to reverse it's normal operation. 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> IMO much cheaper to repair and descale than buying another machine.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Graeme
>>>>>>>> Original Message  
>>>>>>>> From: Benjamin McCafferty
>>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, 10 July 2015 22:43
>>>>>>>> To: [email protected]
>>>>>>>> Reply To: [email protected]
>>>>>>>> Subject: Dead steam boiler, but...
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Morning all,
>>>>>>>> Woke up to the dreaded cold steam boiler this morning; B2 that's about 
>>>>>>>> 7-8 years old with PID and rotary pump upgrades that I did maybe 5 
>>>>>>>> years ago. I did some quick searching in the archives and found Eric's 
>>>>>>>> excellent piece on replacing elements. 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> This is my first time to troubleshoot a dead boiler, so a couple of 
>>>>>>>> notes/questions.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> First, my brew boiler is at normal temp and recovers when I pull a 
>>>>>>>> shot. With the steam boiler getting heating prioritiy, and not hot, 
>>>>>>>> how is this possible? For what it's worth, the red light for the steam 
>>>>>>>> boiler never comes on.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Second, I found Ira's comments about testing the boiler, but open to 
>>>>>>>> any suggestions on how to quickly diagnose the element, pressure stat, 
>>>>>>>> etc. and any other related parts.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Third, is it worth fixing this machine, i.e. cost vs. expected life, 
>>>>>>>> etc. For example, will there come a day when the E61 group clogs (like 
>>>>>>>> my hot water line) and is no longer useable, etc. Or would a 
>>>>>>>> replacement of elements, p stat, etc. give this machine another 
>>>>>>>> near-decade of life?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> All the best as always,
>>>>>>>> Ben McCafferty
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>> 
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