Same here- the old PID plastic housing was extremely brittle and cracked during replacement!
On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 1:35:10 PM UTC-4, Mike PDX wrote: > > Nicholas, > > I was going to ask about the cost since my replacement (which I also did > successfully this weekend) was only a $60 part and a straight Gicar for > Gicar swap out. All in it only took me about 15 minutes, the hardest part > was removing the old unit since the plastic had gotten so brittle the > housing literally shattered when I was removing the screws case screws. > Hope you're able to get a refund! > > m > > On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 5:32:20 PM UTC-7, Nicholas Majka wrote: >> >> So to follow up with everyone- received the PID upgrade kit from WLL >> after their recommended course of action was to replace the PID and was >> told my PID needed an upgrade kit. >> >> Opened up the machine and took out the PID, trying to follow WLL's >> upgrade manual.. Step 1 note the wiring diagram on your existing AKO >> PID..wait why is this AKO looking completely different from the one in the >> diagram? Oh it's because it's ALSO a Gicar! >> >> Yes, apparently my brewtus expobar III shipped with a gicar, not an AKO. >> >> Good news is it made the fix a snap. Unscrew the 4 wires and disconnect >> the boiler probe, replace with new PID, put wires back in, and ready to >> go! Immediately turned on and brew kettle started warming up no problem. >> >> Bad news: since WLL was convinced I would need a total upgrade kit I paid >> $200+ for PID, wiring, new temp probe, and solid state relay, when it seems >> all I needed was a new PID (60$) >> >> Will hopefully be able to return the rest of the kit for a refund! >> >> So in summary, a PID replacement is really easy, and if you have a >> brewtus III even with a red screen, you might have a gicar already and not >> need a whole new upgrade kit. >> >> Left it on overnight for stability testing and made 3 shots today, no >> issues. >> >> Thanks for everyone's help on this- first time on the groups and amazing >> the institutional knowledge and willingness to share! >> >> >> >> >> On Tuesday, October 10, 2017 at 6:04:32 AM UTC-4, Nicholas Majka wrote: >>> >>> Hi All, >>> >>> Have a Brewtus III with rotary pump for about 10 years. Only issues >>> have been cracked copper fitting, replaced vacuum relief valve, and >>> replaced a failed pressurestat. >>> >>> Over the past few months, the PID would flicker and show '104' >>> (firmware?) on screen while flashing but still able to pull shots and >>> steam. >>> >>> Yesterday the PID was flashing very rapidly (maybe 3-5x per second) and >>> when I went to pull a shot the water was room temperature. Steam/water >>> dispenser were fine. >>> >>> I don't have electrical testing equipment but followed the WLL >>> troubleshooting video, checked for loose wires and noticed the light on the >>> SSR is NOT illuminated. >>> >>> Now when I turn the machine off and then back on, there is no PID >>> reading for several minutes until the steam boiler gets warm, then the PID >>> starts to light up (still flickering). The brew boiler is still not >>> heating, and dispenses room temperature water even after several hours of >>> being on. >>> >>> Any thoughts? Bad PID? SSR? >>> >>> Thanks for all your help! >>> >>> >>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
