I think you should be able to access the photos at this link:  
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TvFkfu785zuq4Jya9

 

I used regular white Teflon tape. I wound more times than I would have 
thought—maybe 6 or 7 times. Wind clockwise so when you screw it back in it 
won’t unwind the tape. I didn’t have a good set of wrenches so I bought a set 
to do this job. It’s important to use two wrenches when loosening 
connections—one to hold and one to turn so you don’t bend anything. The 
“labyrinth” (aptly named) is a puzzle (I expected to find a Minotaur). It has 
many connections and weird connectors so it’s hard to get them all tight while 
retaining the correct orientation of the pieces. I think some of the connectors 
are designed to allow for tightening while preserving orientation, but I didn’t 
fully figure this out. I just kept fiddling with it until it seemed to hold. 
Maybe someone else on this service can explain it better. I asked several times 
but didn’t get a clear answer. You can probably still find my pathetic newbie 
questions on the list and the answers. Hope this helps. 

 

Howard

 

From: 'Mike Walsh' via Brewtus <[email protected]> 
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2018 10:45 AM
To: Brewtus <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Solenoid replacement

 

Can you possibly load them up to something like Google Photos in an album and 
share the album?

 

I assume the part I linked is the right one?

 

On the tape, is there need to get a special Teflon tape?  I've got white from a 
house plumbing project, not sure what yellow is for.

 

Any chance anyone can comment on what size tools are needed?  

 

I don't have a metric set of open ended wrenches, and it would be immensely 
helpful to know "for this step you'll need two 14mm wrenches" sort of deal.

Many thanks!

On Saturday, November 24, 2018 at 2:00:28 PM UTC-5, HowardG wrote:

I did this last May and took about 40 pictures of the process. I’d be willing 
to share these jpgs. Is there an easy way to make them available to this group?

 

--Howard

 

From: 'Benjamin McCafferty' via Brewtus <[email protected] <javascript:> 
> 
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2018 5:25 PM
To: [email protected] <javascript:> 
Subject: Re: Solenoid replacement

 

It is possible to remove the pump assembly without removing the boiler, but 
it’s not super-easy. As to leaks—how many wraps did you use? There should be 
tiny print on the side of the packaging that tells you the minimum number of 
wraps for the yellow or white varieties.  Probably 5-7 for the white, and 3 or 
more for the yellow, but have a look. It will hold. Also can use the paint-on 
stuff but you have to work really fast; you will only have a few seconds to 
make adjustments and tighten.

best,

bmc

 

On Nov 23, 2018, at 13:43, Arman <[email protected] <javascript:> > wrote:

 

Hi Mike,

 

I'm currently doing exactly that. Couple of threads earlier I had exactly that 
"pump doesn't go off" - issue. I have received the sparepart yesterday and have 
just replaced the thing (literally an hour ago). I ended up removing the first 
boiler completely in order to replace the solenoid. Otherwise I couldn't get to 
it. Also take a lot of pictures before taking the thing apart so you can 
remember exactly how it goes together., e.g. I had to adjust my new sparepart 
to look the way it should. It's not that hard to be honest if you start with 
removing the boiler immediately (I have wasted an hour to try to get to it 
without removing the boiler). 

When removing the boilder be prepared for a decent amount of water coming out :)

 

Now I have successfully replaced it and the issue is resolved - however there 
are 2 connections around the solenoid (Labyrinth) area that are leaking now. I 
have used teflon band but looks like that's not enough.

So I'm looking forward advise here as well :)

 

good luck

Arman

 

 

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