I think you should be able to access the photos at this link:  
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TvFkfu785zuq4Jya9

 

I used regular white Teflon tape. I wound more times than I would have 
thought—maybe 6 or 7 times. Wind clockwise so when you screw it back in it 
won’t unwind the tape. I didn’t have a good set of wrenches so I bought a 
set to do this job. It’s important to use two wrenches when loosening 
connections—one to hold and one to turn so you don’t bend anything. The 
“labyrinth” (aptly named) is a puzzle (I expected to find a Minotaur). It 
has many connections and weird connectors so it’s hard to get them all 
tight while retaining the correct orientation of the pieces. I think some 
of the connectors are designed to allow for tightening while preserving 
orientation, but I didn’t fully figure this out. I just kept fiddling with 
it until it seemed to hold. Maybe someone else on this service can explain 
it better. I asked several times but didn’t get a clear answer. You can 
probably still find my pathetic newbie questions on the list and the 
answers. Hope this helps. 

 

Howard

On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 12:16:46 PM UTC-5, Mike Walsh wrote:
>
> Can you possibly load them up to something like Google Photos in an album 
> and share the album?
>
> I assume the part I linked is the right one?
>
> On the tape, is there need to get a special Teflon tape?  I've got white 
> from a house plumbing project, not sure what yellow is for.
>
> Any chance anyone can comment on what size tools are needed?  
>
> I don't have a metric set of open ended wrenches, and it would be 
> immensely helpful to know "for this step you'll need two 14mm wrenches" 
> sort of deal.
>
> Many thanks!
>
> On Saturday, November 24, 2018 at 2:00:28 PM UTC-5, HowardG wrote:
>>
>> I did this last May and took about 40 pictures of the process. I’d be 
>> willing to share these jpgs. Is there an easy way to make them available to 
>> this group?
>>
>>  
>>
>> --Howard
>>
>>  
>>
>> *From:* 'Benjamin McCafferty' via Brewtus <[email protected]> 
>> *Sent:* Friday, November 23, 2018 5:25 PM
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Subject:* Re: Solenoid replacement
>>
>>  
>>
>> It is possible to remove the pump assembly without removing the boiler, 
>> but it’s not super-easy. As to leaks—how many wraps did you use? There 
>> should be tiny print on the side of the packaging that tells you the 
>> minimum number of wraps for the yellow or white varieties.  Probably 5-7 
>> for the white, and 3 or more for the yellow, but have a look. It will hold. 
>> Also can use the paint-on stuff but you have to work really fast; you will 
>> only have a few seconds to make adjustments and tighten.
>>
>> best,
>>
>> bmc
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 23, 2018, at 13:43, Arman <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>  
>>
>> Hi Mike,
>>
>>  
>>
>> I'm currently doing exactly that. Couple of threads earlier I had exactly 
>> that "pump doesn't go off" - issue. I have received the sparepart yesterday 
>> and have just replaced the thing (literally an hour ago). I ended up 
>> removing the first boiler completely in order to replace the solenoid. 
>> Otherwise I couldn't get to it. Also take a lot of pictures before taking 
>> the thing apart so you can remember exactly how it goes together., e.g. I 
>> had to adjust my new sparepart to look the way it should. It's not that 
>> hard to be honest if you start with removing the boiler immediately (I have 
>> wasted an hour to try to get to it without removing the boiler). 
>>
>> When removing the boilder be prepared for a decent amount of water coming 
>> out :)
>>
>>  
>>
>> Now I have successfully replaced it and the issue is resolved - however 
>> there are 2 connections around the solenoid (Labyrinth) area that are 
>> leaking now. I have used teflon band but looks like that's not enough.
>>
>> So I'm looking forward advise here as well :)
>>
>>  
>>
>> good luck
>>
>> Arman
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
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