Thanks to all for the advice, and especially for all those great photos, bmc. I'll report back soon...
On Sunday, January 20, 2019 at 3:10:05 PM UTC-6, bmacpiper wrote: > > Just re-read your original—somehow I read that you had a blue wire in > there and so gave you a full dissertation! Anyway, the short version is, I > think you have 2 and 4 backwards in your original question. But, the > lengthy email below should let you easily trace back wires 2 and 4 if you > have any doubt. In my first (blurry) photo, you can vaguely see a small > upside down “4” on the bottom, and “2” in the middle. > best, > bmc > > > On Jan 20, 2019, at 13:01, 'Benjamin McCafferty' via Brewtus < > [email protected] <javascript:>> wrote: > > Hi there Bill, > > I have a B2 of similar vintage, and pulled it apart to refresh my memory. > > —I do believe your symptoms are consistent with a stuck p-stat. The > “little breaker switch”, if you meant the one on top of each boiler, is a > temperature over-limit switch. So with the steam boiler having priority, if > the p-stat stuck, the steam boiler would keep heating, which would peg the > steam pressure gauge and then continue to overheat the steam boiler until > the limit switch tripped. I’m surprised that your over pressure relief (on > top of the steam boiler also) didn’t release—that could be dangerous if > that is not working properly. But it’s possible that your pressure gauge is > not calibrated and registering higher than normal. The pressure relief is a > mechanical part based on a spring, so it would give way based on actual > pressure. When things are cold, you might want to pull that off and be sure > it’s not frozen, etc. Else you may be making espresso with a small bomb. > > —On to wiring then. Note that I converted my B2 years ago to PID control > and rotary pump, and also replaced the Giemme controller board with a newer > unit when the old one failed. The new one has slightly different pins than > the old one (somewhere in the archives you can find a diagram, hand drawn, > of the old vs. new pin-outs—just search for Giemme pins or similar). So, if > you are not on a PID machine and/or still have an old Giemme board, the > following may not be correct for you. I do have stock wiring, other than > changes that were made with the PID conversion kit from WLL. > > On the old/stock p-stat, the topmost wire (white on my machine) is > 1/com(mon). It goes to the Giemme board pin 5, labeled “resistanza”. > The bottom wire (red on my machine) is 2. It goes to one side (either > side) of the temperature over limit switch on top of the steam boiler. > The middle wire (also white on my machine) is 4. It goes to a splice (from > PID upgrade, to lengthen the wire), and continues to the solid state relay > on the bottom of the machine case. It attaches there to terminal 1/L1. > > Here are a couple of photos, with my fat fingers attempting to show you > the wire in question, and also the label on the Giemme board that will help > with knowing whether you have the old or new one. > > —Lastly, the Jaeger p-stat. It is a good unit (though some of us have > found them to either last forever or fail quickly, i.e. within months), but > it is not a direct replacement in terms of sealing it. I always just used > teflon tape on the threads and tightened it pretty firmly, since you’ll be > sealing two flat faces to one another (as opposed to a flair, etc.). I > never had it leak with this solution, but it’s not perfect. As with the old > one, it is adjustable, so my recommendation is to set it to 1.45 bar. Be > sure to dump pressure down a bit after each adjustment before you let it > build again to see how your adjustment went. > > I hope this helps, and that you’re back in business soon. Keep us posted. > > Best, > bmc > > <IMG_7475.jpeg><IMG_7476.jpeg><IMG_7477.jpeg><IMG_7478.jpeg> > <IMG_7479.jpeg> > > On Jan 20, 2019, at 06:11, wsmckenz <[email protected] <javascript:>> > wrote: > > So, I **think** I need replace my pstat on a BII circa 2007. The breaker > switch keeps failing. When I reset it, sometimes things work for a few > days, but some times the pressure meter just pegs out completely, and the > brew boiler never comes on. > > > First question, does it sound like pstat is the problem? I already > replaced the little breaker switch with a new one. > > > Second, I have a jaeger (shown the left). Will it do for a replacement? > > > Finally, for wiring, I think the top white goes to #1 on the Jaeger, the > bottom white goes to #2 and the red to #4 does this sound right? > > > Cheers, > > ~Bill > > > > > <IMG_3663.jpg><IMG_3664.jpg> > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected] <javascript:>. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected] <javascript:> > . > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > <IMG_3663.jpg><IMG_3664.jpg> > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected] <javascript:>. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected] <javascript:> > . > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. 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