Glad to hear! Heat shrink should be just fine. And yes, the teflon tape in this case was probably a bit worthless of me…
Enjoy and happy caffeination! Ben > On Jan 21, 2019, at 14:50, William McKenzie <[email protected]> wrote: > > Looking good so far. > > I’ll clean up those connectors when I know it’s working. Anything wrong with > just putting some heat-shrinking around them? > > The steam light comes on when it drops to 1.15 and goes off at 1.45. > > Didn’t use tape. Just got them snug using two wrenches. No hissing or > dripping so far. > > <image1.jpeg> > > Sent from my mobile. > > ~Bill > > On Jan 21, 2019, at 15:44, wsmckenz <[email protected] > <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: > >> Thanks to all for the advice, and especially for all those great photos, >> bmc. I'll report back soon... >> >> On Sunday, January 20, 2019 at 3:10:05 PM UTC-6, bmacpiper wrote: >> Just re-read your original—somehow I read that you had a blue wire in there >> and so gave you a full dissertation! Anyway, the short version is, I think >> you have 2 and 4 backwards in your original question. But, the lengthy email >> below should let you easily trace back wires 2 and 4 if you have any doubt. >> In my first (blurry) photo, you can vaguely see a small upside down “4” on >> the bottom, and “2” in the middle. >> best, >> bmc >> >> >>> On Jan 20, 2019, at 13:01, 'Benjamin McCafferty' via Brewtus >>> <[email protected] <>> wrote: >>> >>> Hi there Bill, >>> >>> I have a B2 of similar vintage, and pulled it apart to refresh my memory. >>> >>> —I do believe your symptoms are consistent with a stuck p-stat. The “little >>> breaker switch”, if you meant the one on top of each boiler, is a >>> temperature over-limit switch. So with the steam boiler having priority, if >>> the p-stat stuck, the steam boiler would keep heating, which would peg the >>> steam pressure gauge and then continue to overheat the steam boiler until >>> the limit switch tripped. I’m surprised that your over pressure relief (on >>> top of the steam boiler also) didn’t release—that could be dangerous if >>> that is not working properly. But it’s possible that your pressure gauge is >>> not calibrated and registering higher than normal. The pressure relief is a >>> mechanical part based on a spring, so it would give way based on actual >>> pressure. When things are cold, you might want to pull that off and be sure >>> it’s not frozen, etc. Else you may be making espresso with a small bomb. >>> >>> —On to wiring then. Note that I converted my B2 years ago to PID control >>> and rotary pump, and also replaced the Giemme controller board with a newer >>> unit when the old one failed. The new one has slightly different pins than >>> the old one (somewhere in the archives you can find a diagram, hand drawn, >>> of the old vs. new pin-outs—just search for Giemme pins or similar). So, if >>> you are not on a PID machine and/or still have an old Giemme board, the >>> following may not be correct for you. I do have stock wiring, other than >>> changes that were made with the PID conversion kit from WLL. >>> >>> On the old/stock p-stat, the topmost wire (white on my machine) is >>> 1/com(mon). It goes to the Giemme board pin 5, labeled “resistanza”. >>> The bottom wire (red on my machine) is 2. It goes to one side (either side) >>> of the temperature over limit switch on top of the steam boiler. >>> The middle wire (also white on my machine) is 4. It goes to a splice (from >>> PID upgrade, to lengthen the wire), and continues to the solid state relay >>> on the bottom of the machine case. It attaches there to terminal 1/L1. >>> >>> Here are a couple of photos, with my fat fingers attempting to show you the >>> wire in question, and also the label on the Giemme board that will help >>> with knowing whether you have the old or new one. >>> >>> —Lastly, the Jaeger p-stat. It is a good unit (though some of us have found >>> them to either last forever or fail quickly, i.e. within months), but it is >>> not a direct replacement in terms of sealing it. I always just used teflon >>> tape on the threads and tightened it pretty firmly, since you’ll be sealing >>> two flat faces to one another (as opposed to a flair, etc.). I never had it >>> leak with this solution, but it’s not perfect. As with the old one, it is >>> adjustable, so my recommendation is to set it to 1.45 bar. Be sure to dump >>> pressure down a bit after each adjustment before you let it build again to >>> see how your adjustment went. >>> >>> I hope this helps, and that you’re back in business soon. Keep us posted. >>> >>> Best, >>> bmc >>> >>> <IMG_7475.jpeg><IMG_7476.jpeg><IMG_7477.jpeg><IMG_7478.jpeg><IMG_7479.jpeg> >>>> On Jan 20, 2019, at 06:11, wsmckenz <[email protected] <>> wrote: >>>> >>>> So, I **think** I need replace my pstat on a BII circa 2007. The breaker >>>> switch keeps failing. When I reset it, sometimes things work for a few >>>> days, but some times the pressure meter just pegs out completely, and the >>>> brew boiler never comes on. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> First question, does it sound like pstat is the problem? I already >>>> replaced the little breaker switch with a new one. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Second, I have a jaeger (shown the left). Will it do for a replacement? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Finally, for wiring, I think the top white goes to #1 on the Jaeger, the >>>> bottom white goes to #2 and the red to #4 does this sound right? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> ~Bill >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> <IMG_3663.jpg><IMG_3664.jpg> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >>>> "Brewtus" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >>>> email to [email protected] <>. >>>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected] <>. >>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus >>>> <https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus>. >>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout >>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/optout>. >>>> <IMG_3663.jpg><IMG_3664.jpg> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >>> "Brewtus" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >>> email to [email protected] <>. >>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected] <>. >>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus >>> <https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus>. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout >>> <https://groups.google.com/d/optout>. >> >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Brewtus" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to [email protected] >> <mailto:[email protected]>. >> To post to this group, send email to [email protected] >> <mailto:[email protected]>. >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus >> <https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus>. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout >> <https://groups.google.com/d/optout>. > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected] > <mailto:[email protected]>. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected] > <mailto:[email protected]>. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus > <https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus>. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout > <https://groups.google.com/d/optout>. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
