I had my first pstat rot on my b2. the plastic was impossibly fragile and 
crisped into dust when i tried to remove it. I had to use a pick to clean 
the plastic out of the brass threads.

I use teflon tape when reinstalling. I have some good flare nut wrenches i 
use whenever possible.

Not sure what you mean about it being stuck.


>
> On Feb 13, 2020, at 09:56, Rich <[email protected] <javascript:>> wrote:
>
> thanks so much for the detailed reply! As you said this is great info so i 
> am glad you left both parts up. I obviously need to work on my spanner 
> technique as I havent seen any others have this issue, its actually quite 
> hard to find the bit of pipe required. As the machine has 2 switches, one 
> for on and the other for steam I presumed that on would still heat the brew 
> boiler. I think following your reply it is safer if I just wait for the 
> brass pipe!
>
> thanks
>
> Richard
>
> On Thursday, February 13, 2020 at 5:25:47 PM UTC, bmacpiper wrote:
>>
>> Well crap—I somehow read “OPV” in your question, instead of "p-stat". So 
>> I wrote up this whole response before realizing that. I’m going to go ahead 
>> and leave it, since the discussion might be helpful to someone else down 
>> the road. But your basic questions are also answered later in the email. 
>> I’m assuming you have a failed p-stat, which means it’s not a big deal if 
>> you damage the old one on the way out.
>>
>> Best and talk soon,
>> bmc
>>
>> -----------------------
>>
>>
>> Hi again Richard,
>>
>> A couple of things you’re saying don’t add up, so I want to clarify. In 
>> fairness, I have a B2, so things may have changed.
>>
>> On my machine, the OPV (over pressure valve) is not a plastic part. The 
>> p-stat (pressure stat) is a plastic part, however.
>>
>> Forgive me if I’m telling you things you already know, but here’s how it 
>> sorts out:
>>
>> —The OPV is located behind the drip tray, on the right as you face the 
>> machine, and may have a sticker over its access hole that says “do not 
>> adjust” or similar. The adjustment screw is a large slotted screw, and is 
>> used to adjust the maximum pressure to the brew boiler when pulling a shot 
>> or backflushing. When that pressure is reached, water is shunted back to 
>> the water tank (pour over machines) or into the drip tray (plumbed 
>> machines). Note that this is not a safety mechanism; it’s used only to set 
>> brew pressure to 9 bar or whatever. On top of the brew boiler is an over 
>> pressure device that protects the pressure vessel from exploding, in case 
>> something goes wrong with the OPV and/or logic controller. If this 
>> activates, it will sound like a freight train coming through (loud hiss) 
>> and there will be condensation all over the inside of the machine. A good 
>> time to unplug, dry it all out, and figure out what the hell went wrong.
>>
>> —The p-stat is inside the machine, sitting atop a copper tube, and is 
>> typically a black plastic device with 3 wires attached. This is how you 
>> adjust the pressure to the steam boiler (I set this to about 1.45 bar). 
>> Power goes to the steam boiler, and when 1.45 bar is reached, the p-stat is 
>> switched to allow power to the brew boiler instead. When you hear “steam 
>> boiler has priority”, this is the part that controls it. Since it is a 
>> direct open connection into the steam boiler, the threaded interface 
>> between the copper tube and the plastic p-stat must be able to seal against 
>> 1.45 bar or more, and thus will not use grease, etc. to lube the threads.
>>
>> —In the case of both the p-stat and the OPV (and all other threaded 
>> connections that have to be sealed), Expobar uses a food-grade sealant on 
>> the threads. It is very thin, and dries almost instantly if the parts are 
>> hot. If you use it to re-assemble things, you have to work very quickly, as 
>> you usually only have a few seconds to get things tight and oriented 
>> correctly. This sealant is very strong, and when removing parts that are 
>> sealed with it, it definitely feels like you’re going to strip threads. 
>> I’ve spent many hours of my life with a wrench in hand, and breaking this 
>> sealant loose always makes me nervous, but I have also never stripped any 
>> threads on the machine due to the sealant. I will say that it is 
>> exceptionally important to use good technique. The best is if you have two 
>> open-end wrenches, one for each side of the joint, that are both very well 
>> fitted to the nuts. Try to have them aligned so that they are as close to 
>> each other as possible, and then offset by maybe 15 degrees, and just 
>> squeeze them together to break the part/nut/etc. loose. If you try to have 
>> one in each hand, you will inevitably smear the corners of the nut/part and 
>> then have a tough job ahead. If you only use a wrench on one side of the 
>> joint, you will almost certainly twist the soft copper pipe and crimp it 
>> shut, beyond repair.
>>
>> Be sure to use a brush (brass, for example) to gently clean all the old 
>> sealant off the threads. It will seem almost fragile and tends to flake out 
>> quite easily. I have had success using the sealant from Expobar/WLL, but 
>> have also used yellow teflon tape on many parts (heating elements, p-stat, 
>> OPV) with no leaks. It’s not what Expobar calls for but does work, and much 
>> easier disassembly in the future as needed.
>>
>> —As to your question on whether the brew boiler can be used without a 
>> p-stat, the answer is “sort of”. Since the steam boiler has priority, you 
>> would have to jumper power to the brew boiler if you’re not letting the 
>> steam boiler come up to temperature. One workaround when the p-stat sticks 
>> (and never lets the brew boiler heat) is to reverse the power out wires on 
>> the p-stat that go to steam and brew. This basically gives the brew boiler 
>> priority, and since the steam boiler never heats and hits 1.45 bar, power 
>> never switches over to it. The obvious problem with this scenario is that 
>> the brew boiler gets power continuously, until its over-temp sensor on top 
>> activates and cuts power to it. You may have the over pressure device on 
>> top activate before that over-temp sensor activates; I just can’t recall. 
>> If memory serves, the logic board (giemme and/or PID) will also be 
>> monitoring temp in the brew boiler and only sending bursts of power if the 
>> boiler is not up to set point yet, so that’s further protection.  Either 
>> way it’s outside of design specs, and not something I’d do as a permanent 
>> fix.
>>
>> OK, hope this helps and talk soon.
>> b
>>
>> On Feb 13, 2020, at 01:30, Rich <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All, 
>>
>> apologies for a spate of questions, again I have had a search but cannot 
>> find anything. Has anyone else had the issue of the PStat getting 
>> physically stuck in the brass fittings? I cant remove it so have had to buy 
>> a new pressure pipe which isnt in stock until the end of the month from a 
>> company in France (open to suggestions for UK suppliers?). Do people use 
>> grease or any kind of lubricant to make sure these don't get stuck in the 
>> fittings, it seems a tight fit and quite easy to shred the plastic? My 
>> other question is whether I can use the brew boiler without a PStat, I 
>> guess I can and that its only for the steam boiler but I wanted to check in 
>> case I missed something! 
>>
>> Thanks again
>>
>> Richard
>>
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