Now I realize the gunk around the element is just baked on thread compound. These didn't really have gaskets I guess. I did run resistance checks on both elements, steam boiler at 13 ohm and the brew boiler maybe like 40,000 ohms.. Good reason to find an impact wrench. I guess I'll slow down while I get an element ordered. Thanks again all..
On Thursday, March 18, 2021 at 1:58:00 PM UTC-7 Roger wrote: > Thanks Westi, Ira, Jpaul. Seems like an impact wrench will be needed. I'm > not sure if I will remove them or not yet at this point. The seal on the > elements look terrible, didn't seem to hold up well to heat what ever was > used (photo). I think is saw some and they come with teflon now. Will > continue with a few more descaling soaks and see what it looks like inside. > The Brew boiler doesn't seem as bad, but I didn't remove enough fittings > yet to have a look. I'll try some of basic electrical tests on the elements > to see if obviously open or possible short. But if i don't see anything > obvious, likely will just put everything back in place after descaling to > see what's going on overall. Not sure if best plan, but that's my direction > for now. Was just researching the different acids typically used and > effects on copper and different rubbers. Sometimes a little worried of > metal corrosion if left to soak at too high of a concentration. I saw one > reference "chemical resistance guide for valves and fittings" that > indicates acetic or citric are not great for copper. The citric > concentration said saturated though (60%w/w) and acetic at 25%. Typically > would only use maybe 5-10%. Salfamic acid it says is ok for copper at 20%. > Still not sure what is best from this info.. people use both. I'm trying > salfamic for nowI know if they use these in big sensitive systems they will > add a corrosion inhibitor with the Citric or Salfamic. Well have to think > i've spent 20 hours on this all in all.. Back too it.. [image: > PXL_20210318_055833496.jpg] > > On Thursday, March 18, 2021 at 12:04:56 PM UTC-7 jpaul wrote: > >> I’ve removed the heating element out of B2 and the key was an impact >> wrench. Heating may help but since the element is threaded into the >> boiler, not sure nut buster heating will help. Seems Crem used a very >> sturdy sealant/glue when assembling. It required significant force to >> break free. >> >> >> >> Good luck! >> >> >> >> *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> *On Behalf Of * >> Ira >> *Sent:* Thursday, March 18, 2021 11:51 AM >> *To:* RW <[email protected]> >> *Subject:* Re: Picked up a Brewtus II. Tips on troubleshooting. >> >> >> >> Hello RW, >> >> Thursday, March 18, 2021, 10:43:49 AM, you wrote: >> >> hinking what's would be the best way to remove the elements with the >> boilers out. Don't have a vise.. >> >> >> Never done it, but seems the answer is 1/2" impact wrench. Something I >> did when I was descaling my 2 group Rancilio was connect the 230V to 110V >> so the solution stayed warm for in my case days. I wonder if connecting the >> elements in series on the Brewtus might accomplish the same thing, though >> it might still get to hot. On the Rancilio there were 3 elements and I only >> used one or two to keep it warm. >> >> -- Ira >> >> -- >> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Brewtus" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to [email protected]. >> >> To view this discussion on the web visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/1610263785.20210318115113%40gmail.com >> >> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/1610263785.20210318115113%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >> . >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/56c2a3e6-0e3f-4390-b712-3782f0088106n%40googlegroups.com.
