What, @value doesn't work in texinfo.tex either?

I'd be surprised if it did in that context.

    At least @@ should work, I think, or else we are effectively disabling 
    `@' in file names.  

Tough.

    And the same goes for non-ASCII characters like @,{c} 
    etc.

Double tough.

Expecting TeX to handle arbitrary characters in filenames
is a nonstarter.

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