Has anyone been able to get two-column output with TeX for Texinfo
    files?  

This is what @table is for?  And/or @multitable?

    I'm able to get plain-TeX two-column output, but putting
    the same code (taken straight from the TeXbook) into @tex blocks
    doesn't have any affect.

It all depends on the code in question.  I've successfully used \halign
inside @tex.

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