do I care? no. I am sitting on the patio of a great bar in Seattle with my wife overlooking the harbor.
I had two drinks and as far as I can see soldering is the farthest thing from my mind. but you guys have fun with it. ron On Aug 13, 2016 15:02, "EMD Cebridge via BVARC" <[email protected]> wrote: > It is PCB not PVC oil that is not used in transformers. Polychlorinated > biphenyl, As far a solder goes, Multi-core 60/40 (lead type) in my tool kit > as well as lead free. Lead free does require all parts to be hotter to get > the flow. As a standard soldering iron on my bench I have a Weller WP35 for > 80% of the work, good heat for connectors and most jobs. Cheap to buy, and > cheap to run (tips) I have a temp. controlled iron but only use it when > soldering real sensitive parts. For bigger stuff, can’t beat a Weller 8200 > gun. If you have a gun, loosen and retighten the tip nuts before using to > make the tip get hot, a poor electrical joint will lower the heat. Keep a > wet sponge or pad to wipe the tip. A well tinned tip is very important for > proper heat flow and to prevent excess heat to the part you are soldering. > If your tip will not hold a tin, replace it. I have been soldering for 50+ > years, so I have some experience to back up on. Robert > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* BVARC [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Jon > Livingston kb0mnm via BVARC > *Sent:* Saturday, August 13, 2016 11:46 AM > *To:* BRAZOS VALLEY AMATEUR RADIO CLUB > *Cc:* [email protected]; [email protected] > *Subject:* Re: [BVARC] Solders- & mild irritants/poisons > > > > Folks- > > Please note that some of the RoHS ( Reduction of Hazardous Materials ) > solders *do require a higher temperature. > > Not all of the new solders necessarily accomplish RoHS for the operator, > eg. : > > AIM has one ( Apple IBM Motorola as a memory aid ) which is supposed to be > used in machines, which includes traces of Germanium. Based upon past > experience, this needs to be soldered with a hotter iron ( closer to 800 F > ) and with good ventillation. The flux is Malic Acid, and a known irritant. > > All of the new RoHS solders work with Tin and Silver, rather than Lead. > Various oxides of lead have been linked to brain issues in children, mostly > 'Red Lead' primers. > > Mercury is the heavy metal poisoning for which the character 'Mad Hatter' > was named. Mercury fulminate was used in tanning hair for felt in hats. > > Let's all get along- and not get mad, rather more educated here... > > 73 > > KB0MNM > > P.S. Have you found any bottles of Carbon Tetrachloride electrical cleaner > around? This is a known carcinogen ( may cause cancer ), as is burning > Polyvinyl Chloride. > > PVC insulation is the old soft one, and contains some of that same PVC oil > no longer installed in big transformers... > > > ------------------------------ > > *From: *"Jonathan Guthrie via BVARC" <[email protected]> > *To: *[email protected] > *Cc: *[email protected] > *Sent: *Friday, August 12, 2016 6:40:02 PM > *Subject: *Re: [BVARC] When all you really want is JUST A DROP! > > > > I wouldn't worry as much about the diameter or making sure it's "eutectic" > as Mr. Crowell does. The rest of the world gets excellent results with > lead-free solders, as do I, and you can, too. I'll let you know if I see > any tin whiskers show up. > > > > For my own part, I think Mr. Crowell focuses far too much on the solder and > far to little on the equipment and the preparation. While you can (as I > did) do excellent work with the kind of cheap crap you could buy at Radio > Shack in the late 70's, if you value your time at all, it's worth getting > good stuff, but I'm getting ahead of myself. > > > > There are three rules for getting good solder joints. The materials to be > joined must be clean, they must be fluxed, and they must be hot. The > material > that is normally soldered is copper, but just about any pure metal is going > to oxidize when it hits air. For those PC boards that have been sitting > around in that ziploc bag for several years, you may not be able to see > it, > but all those copper bits are covered with a thin layer of tarnish. Solder > will not wet tarnish. > > > > Now, flux will deal with a little bit of tarnish, that's what it's for, but > a lot needs to be cleaned. Get yourself some Scotch Brite(tm) and get to > work! > > > > You can (and probably should--I do) buy flux core solder, but it is often > handy to have extra flux lying around, so get yourself a bottle of liquid > flux. As Mr. Crowell says, only use rosin flux (acid flux corrodes a lot > faster) but remember that you should clean the flux off once you're done. > If you've ever read that you can't carry melted solder on a soldering iron > because it won't work, the reason it won't work is that the flux in the > solder boils off. Applying flux directly to the work piece makes that > technique work. (It's how surface-mount stuff is done with an iron.) > > > > As far as getting it hot, well, that's where the iron comes in. The kind > of iron you want depends on the kind of soldering you're doing. Putting > together some kits? Get yourself a temperature controlled iron and set the > temperature to whatever the solder manufacturer recommends. You don't want > it too hot because the adhesive that holds the traces to the board can melt > and traces can lift and nobody wants that. I've heard good things about > the Hakko FX-888D, and it's under $100 from Amazon. While you're at it, > get > some liquid flux and one of those hand desoldering pumps. Get too much > solder on the joint? (And you will!) You can heat the joint and suck > the excess away. They're cheap. You might also want to get some > desoldering braid. I don't use it, myself, but some people like it. > > > > If you want to do surface mount, you'll need a setup that's different. I > know guys who do reflow soldering with toaster ovens or hotplates and > embossing guns, but I have an Aoyue 968. I solder with the iron and > desolder > with the hot air. Works a treat. Dealing with surface mount is not hard > but it's different from what most hams are used to, so you should probably > seek specific advice on how to do it if that's what you want to do. > > > > If you're soldering PL-259's onto coax, you don't want anything like that. > For that, I have a 75-watt uncontrolled iron that's intended for soldering > stained glass windows. I use that because it has a honking big chunk of > copper at the tip. When you heat the soldering iron, the iron itself gets > hot, and when you apply it to the joint to be soldered, heat starts flowing > from the iron tip into the joint. Now, that causes a lot of things to > happen, > most of them bad. The iron drops in temperature and the copper of what > you're soldering starts to oxidize. The insulation that's near the copper > starts to heat and may melt. When you're heating coax, you want the heat > to flow into the coax connector as quickly as possible to minimize the > melting of the insulation. Since a coax connector is a fairly large > thermal > mass, you need a large thermal mass to heat it quickly. > > > > You always want what you're soldering to heat quickly. If you're soldering > components to a board, they've got specified times and temperatures you can > apply soldering irons to them before they get damaged. It's usually like > 10 > seconds for like 500C. Now, 10 seconds is longer than it sounds when > you're > trying to get the iron, the solder, the component, and the board all > together > where you can get the work done, but it is possible to damage components by > overheating. So, I recommend using the largest soldering iron tip that > will > work comfortably with what you're working on and I like chisel tips rather > than conical because there's more area for heat transfer. > > > > I basically have three chisel tips that I switch out depending on what I'm > doing. I have a tiny one for surface mount, a medium sized one for putting > through-hole components on boards, and a larger one that I think makes it > easier to solder to ground planes like for "ugly" construction. > > > > Now, that's what I think is important about soldering. Note that you can > follow Mr. Crowell's advice and mine simultaneously. Maybe you even > should. > I don't know. I do know it's one opinion, worth what you paid for it. > > > > On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 04:45:39PM -0500, JP Pritchard via BVARC wrote: > > Great article. I'm on Amazon and I don't see eutectic diameter .46mm. > What > > brand sells that size? > > > > JP > > KG3JPP > > > > > > > > _____ > > > > From: BVARC [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Rick Hiller > via > > BVARC > > Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 4:30 PM > > To: BRAZOS VALLEY AMATEUR RADIO CLUB > > Cc: Rick Hiller; Bill Crowell, N4HPG > > Subject: Re: [BVARC] When all you really want is JUST A DROP! > > > > > > Iron wattage, temperature, tip shape, proper method, etc. also play a big > > part in getting good joints. And......Practice, practice, practice!!!! > > > > Sent from my eye doo hickey > > > > On Aug 12, 2016, at 2:00 PM, Bill Crowell, N4HPG via BVARC < > [email protected]> > > wrote: > > > > > > > > All, > > > > Hand soldering is very much an art form. I was pretty good at it, but > have > > been learning over the years. I have learned a lot from Brian, KF4VOO as > > well as watching NASA training videos on YouTube and from other sources. > > These topics I've discussed on the air, but putting them in writing for > the > > rest of the class <grin>. > > > > Let me give these out as a series of points: > > 1. Use Eutectic solder - 63/37. That's 63% tin and 37%lead. Eutectic > means > > that both components melt/freeze at the same temperature. This is > extremely > > important for hand-soldering. 60/40 is easier to manufacture, but gives > > poorer results because it was also designed for flow soldering. None of > that > > lead-free crap. My XYL, Dasha is an environmental engineer (and a > licensed > > Professional Engineer in the State of TEXAS). She's not worried about > lead > > contamination from our soldering leaching into the ground water and > killing > > kittens and puppies and that's good enough for me. > > > > 2. The flux should be rosin core. Period. > > > > 3. The diameter should be skinny. 0.46mm - the reason is that we don't > want > > too much solder in the joint. > > > > And for today's topic: Flux. > > > > In an ideal solder joint, there should just be the proper fillet of > solder > > where the junction is formed. Those of you who are welders understand > > fillets. > > > > The amount of flux inside even the best solder tends to cause the > operator > > to apply too much solder to the joint. The internal flux dissipates > before > > the heat-bridge gets the solder flowed. > > > > The answer - add flux to the joint. I suggest liquid flux where the > rosin is > > dissolved in alcohol. > > > > I got some good flux from Fry's and picked up a Weller squeeze bottle > with a > > needle in it. This dispenser SUCKS. Flux all over the work and the > bench. A > > waste of money and time in cleaning. Liquid flux is sticky until > completely > > dried out. > > > > The solution to the problem with the SOLUTION was to get a really good > > bottle+cap+dispensing needle. I found a deal on Amazon linked here: > > > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G2QZQG8/ref=oh_aui_ > detailpage_o00_s00?i > > e=UTF8 > > <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G2QZQG8/ref=oh_aui_ > detailpage_o00_s00? > > ie=UTF8&psc=1> &psc=1 > > > > This kit is for "Vape" - whatever that is. It's an inexpensive kit of > > various bottles and dispensing needles. The needles are for syringes, but > > not for the pokey kind - just a blunt tip. > > > > In the bottle with yellow cap and yellow needle is the flux. It's all > happy > > and drips out just the right amount. The black is even finer and filled > with > > lubricating oil for my guns. I'll use the other bottles and sizes for > > various glues and such. > > <IMG_0522.jpg> > > > > Here's a link to the flux I got at Fry's, but available on Amazon: > > > > https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-8351-125ML-Halogen- > Bottle/dp/B00S16UAGE/ > > ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial > > <https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-8351-125ML-Halogen- > Bottle/dp/B00S16UAGE > > /ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1471028240&sr=1-4& > keywords=liquid+flux> > > &ie=UTF8&qid=1471028240&sr=1-4&keywords=liquid+flux > > > > Just a drop or 2 makes a big difference. Keeping 100 drops OFF the bench > > makes it funner. > > > > 73 > > > > Bill Crowell, N4HPG > > Pearland, TX > > [email protected] > > I prefer to live a life of galvanic isolation. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > BVARC mailing list > > [email protected] > > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > BVARC mailing list > > [email protected] > > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > > > > > _______________________________________________ > BVARC mailing list > [email protected] > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > > > > _______________________________________________ > BVARC mailing list > [email protected] > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > >
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