You need a highly compensating developer (high dilution and infrequent 
agitation) or the water-bath technique used by Ansel Adams.  Both have the 
effect of exhausting the developer in heavily exposed areas before 
development has proceeded to a very high density, while continuing 
development in the lightly exposed areas of the negative.  RKS


>From: Gene Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Developing ortho copy film, (was Halation)
>Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 07:38:57 -0800
>
>Alan and list,
>
>I printed some of the negatives from the copy film last night and was
>very disapointed.  Like I said before, the parts that had reasonable
>density on the neg were pretty impressive, but the great majority of the
>frames were either almost blocked up or super thin.  I have to compress
>the contrast somehow.  I'm going to take one more stab at the Rodinal,
>and my guess is to try less development.  Maybe go from 10 min to 6 or 8
>min.  After that, I still have the message from Rick Dingus outlining
>the use of HC110 for this purpose, and will give that a try in any
>case.  I also had something from Masrc, but I can't find that now.
>Marc, if you wouldn't mind sending that again, I'd love to have it. Kind
>of fun, all it costs is the developer. I really have to finish my 4x5
>project now, since being able to develop one sheet at a time (under a
>red safelight!) would make the experimentation easier.
>
>Gene
>
>Alan Zinn wrote:
> >
> > At 12:14 PM 11/13/01 -0800, you wrote:
> > >Hello all,
> > >
> > >I've just finished developing a roll Kodak High Resolution Aerial Copy
> > >film.  I had cut and rolled a strip of it and put it in my old
> > >Rolleiflex.  I took a series of shots of the landscape in front of my
> > >house to get an idea of the film speed. The resulting negatives are
> > >certainly interesting.  The cloudy sky is very dense compared to the
> > >ground, which I expected.  But something strange has happened I cannot
> > >explain.  I have much more detail of the houses etc. at 8 and 4 sec and
> > >also at 1/2 sec.  At 2 sec and especially at 1 sec the ground detail is
> > >almost gone.  This film has no antihalation backing.  To look at it it
> > >is yellow and almost transparent.  Could this be halation?  I have no
> > >idea what halation looks like on the film.  If anyone is curious, the
> > >images that look like they are exposed about right have amazing detail.
> > >I didn't know the little Tessar in my Rolleiflex was that good.  I will
> > >let you all know what happens when I try to print these.  That should
> > >happen in a couple days.  I have 500ft. of this stuff, and my plan was
> > >to cut a bunch of 4x5 sheets from it.  Looks like it works well at 
>about
> > >ASA 2-6.  I developed it in Rodinal for 10 min at 20 deg C.
> > >
> > >Gene Johnson
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >Cameramakers mailing list
> > >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
> > >
> > >
> > Gene,
> > I used a variations of this film years ago. It is phenomenal for certain
> > light situations but without the halation backing it is quite squirrely. 
>I
> > think it is more sensitive to I/R. It is best in overcast light and does
> > well with foggy weather. It has a pronounced adjacency effect in sunlit
> > scenes. I have 35mm pictures that are almost unbelievably fine grained. 
>The
> > negs are sort of erie and beautiful without the halation backing.
> >
> > AZ
> > Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
> >
> > www.geocities.com/soho/gallery/8874/
> >          or
> > keyword.com lookaround
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Cameramakers mailing list
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>_______________________________________________
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