Gene,
At www.jackspcs.com/fdnb.htm ("Jack's Photographic and Chemistry Site")
there is what purports to be Beutler's Neofin Blue formula. To my surprise,
the German company Tetenal (at Tetenal.de) still makes it in a package of 5
vials of liquid concentrate, just as they did 45 years ago or more when I
used it. It's available from a number of sources, including fotoimpex.de.
RKS
>From: Gene Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Developing ortho copy film, (was Halation)
>Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 13:06:41 -0800
>
>Robert and list,
>
>I can't wait to try it. Rick suggested very dilute HC110, I will try
>Rodinal 1:100 first, just because I have that. I was reading a very old
>copy of The Amateur Photographer's Handbook in which Sussman advocates
>the use of Kodak High Contrast Copy Film with H&W Control developer.
>The claims the author makes for this emulsion/developer combo sound a
>lot like Tech Pan. It makes me even more curious about experimenting to
>see if I can fnd a developer that will get more useful tones from this
>film. Does anybody remember anything about this combo or this developer?
>I don't know AA's water bath technique, I will have to do some more
>reading.
>
>Gene Johnson
>
>Robert Stoddard wrote:
> >
> > You need a highly compensating developer (high dilution and infrequent
> > agitation) or the water-bath technique used by Ansel Adams. Both have
>the
> > effect of exhausting the developer in heavily exposed areas before
> > development has proceeded to a very high density, while continuing
> > development in the lightly exposed areas of the negative. RKS
> >
> > >From: Gene Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Developing ortho copy film, (was Halation)
> > >Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 07:38:57 -0800
> > >
> > >Alan and list,
> > >
> > >I printed some of the negatives from the copy film last night and was
> > >very disapointed. Like I said before, the parts that had reasonable
> > >density on the neg were pretty impressive, but the great majority of
>the
> > >frames were either almost blocked up or super thin. I have to compress
> > >the contrast somehow. I'm going to take one more stab at the Rodinal,
> > >and my guess is to try less development. Maybe go from 10 min to 6 or
>8
> > >min. After that, I still have the message from Rick Dingus outlining
> > >the use of HC110 for this purpose, and will give that a try in any
> > >case. I also had something from Masrc, but I can't find that now.
> > >Marc, if you wouldn't mind sending that again, I'd love to have it.
>Kind
> > >of fun, all it costs is the developer. I really have to finish my 4x5
> > >project now, since being able to develop one sheet at a time (under a
> > >red safelight!) would make the experimentation easier.
> > >
> > >Gene
> > >
> > >Alan Zinn wrote:
> > > >
> > > > At 12:14 PM 11/13/01 -0800, you wrote:
> > > > >Hello all,
> > > > >
> > > > >I've just finished developing a roll Kodak High Resolution Aerial
>Copy
> > > > >film. I had cut and rolled a strip of it and put it in my old
> > > > >Rolleiflex. I took a series of shots of the landscape in front of
>my
> > > > >house to get an idea of the film speed. The resulting negatives are
> > > > >certainly interesting. The cloudy sky is very dense compared to
>the
> > > > >ground, which I expected. But something strange has happened I
>cannot
> > > > >explain. I have much more detail of the houses etc. at 8 and 4 sec
>and
> > > > >also at 1/2 sec. At 2 sec and especially at 1 sec the ground
>detail is
> > > > >almost gone. This film has no antihalation backing. To look at it
>it
> > > > >is yellow and almost transparent. Could this be halation? I have
>no
> > > > >idea what halation looks like on the film. If anyone is curious,
>the
> > > > >images that look like they are exposed about right have amazing
>detail.
> > > > >I didn't know the little Tessar in my Rolleiflex was that good. I
>will
> > > > >let you all know what happens when I try to print these. That
>should
> > > > >happen in a couple days. I have 500ft. of this stuff, and my plan
>was
> > > > >to cut a bunch of 4x5 sheets from it. Looks like it works well at
> > >about
> > > > >ASA 2-6. I developed it in Rodinal for 10 min at 20 deg C.
> > > > >
> > > > >Gene Johnson
> > > > >_______________________________________________
> > > > >Cameramakers mailing list
> > > > >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > >http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > Gene,
> > > > I used a variations of this film years ago. It is phenomenal for
>certain
> > > > light situations but without the halation backing it is quite
>squirrely.
> > >I
> > > > think it is more sensitive to I/R. It is best in overcast light and
>does
> > > > well with foggy weather. It has a pronounced adjacency effect in
>sunlit
> > > > scenes. I have 35mm pictures that are almost unbelievably fine
>grained.
> > >The
> > > > negs are sort of erie and beautiful without the halation backing.
> > > >
> > > > AZ
> > > > Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
> > > >
> > > > www.geocities.com/soho/gallery/8874/
> > > > or
> > > > keyword.com lookaround
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
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