Adrian Stott wrote: > > "Neil Arlidge" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:neil%40tuesdaynightclub.co.uk>> > wrote: > > >My only comment, from rather a lot of experience of rust in cars and on > >boats.... > >get rid of it! > >If it is heavily crusted and access for a grinder is impossible, a > cheaper > >option for the long term could well be to get the bottom of the > lockers grit > >blasted or needle gunned. > > Hence my advice to use a passivator such as Fertan. All that is > needed is to remove the loose rust (a wire brush will do that), then > paint the stuff on. It converts the rust into a harmless (and even > beneficial) phosphate. > > Amazing stuff, actually. Looks like milk in the container, but when > you apply it it turns bright blue, then cures to black. It isn't > weather-proof, so needs painting over, which is why I put a red oxide > primer on top and then some paint of an unfashionable colour (surely > we all have some of that in the back of a cupboard somewhere). > > Make it easy on yourself. > > Adrian > > Adrian Stott > 07956-299966 > > Sounds like the product I use over here (was called "Extend" - now called ??) for my car restorations. The material can be successfully applied over the rust as well as adjoining good metal. The material does a chemical change and creates an air-tight barrier over the rust. I add another primer over the rust converter to protect the converter against scratches. I have enjoyed reading the additional processes such as the felt pad as your gas locker should be in good shape afterward. Here's a link about rust converters: http://www.alan.net/prgshoptips/rustconv.html
Eric
