The start cap on mine was meant to be under the metalwork that holds the single 
fuse at the rear of the printer on the left side (looking from the front of the 

But don't be surprised if there isn't one.  Try the turning by hand first...  
it's quite possible one of the control bars has popped out into the guts of it 
and jammed things up. 

David Collins
Client Engagement Manager
Dimension Data
Tel: +61 3 9626 0593
Mob: +61 424 785 131

(Sent from out of office)

> On 14 Oct. 2016, at 6:13 pm, drlegendre . <> wrote:
> " I'm assuming it must be round.. although directly under the fuse is a
> little black box connected to it.
> I note when I plug it in on Line sometimes there's a single metallic clack
> from the PSU area and sometimes it's multiple..lioe someone's operating a
> telegraph."
> The start/run caps can be tubular, rectangular or 'bathtub' shaped. Again,
> this is just generic advice and I can't say which shape(s) were used by TTY
> Corp.
> As for the one clack vs. telegraph-like clacks, that sounds an awful lot
> like a relay or solenoid that sometimes acts OK, and other times, sits
> there fluttering as it lacks sufficient current to pull-in or hold the
> relay armature. Bad filter caps in a DC supply (to the solenoid coil..) is
> classic for this.
> Ever seen a one of the cheap, obnoxious 120 AC buzzers they used in old
> stoves and so on, as a "done" signal? They're just an AC relay designed
> such that the coil cannot hold the armature between cycles - so it just
> buzzes like mad to alert you to the status of yr Pizza rolls. =P
> On Fri, Oct 14, 2016 at 1:46 AM, David Collins <>
> wrote:
>> You might want to try moving the keyboard forward and away from the
>> operating lever that connects to it at the back right corner of the
>> keyboard. If the keyboard is pushed too far back on that lever it can load
>> up the mechanism and stall it.
>> It will need to be re-aligned to get the keyboard working again but that
>> will need to be done anyway - it's pretty sensitive to movement.
>> You should be able to turn the mechanism by hand but it also may need to
>> be loosened up if it hasn't been used for a long time.
>> The 33 I restored blew fuses initially and I thought it had a bad start
>> cap. Turns out the start cap had been removed and my unit doesn't seem to
>> need it. Once I rotated it a few times and put grease here and there it ran
>> ok.
>> If you can get it to work by turning it by hand while it's buzzing then a
>> bad or missing start cap may be your issue.
>> David Collins
>> HP Computer Museum
>>> On 14 Oct. 2016, at 4:56 pm, Brad H <>
>> wrote:
>>> I missed those somehow.. thank you.  Got a lot to learn with this beast!
>>> Sent from my Samsung device
>>> -------- Original message --------
>>> From:
>>> Date: 2016-10-13  10:30 PM  (GMT-08:00)
>>> To:,
>>> Subject: Re: ASR 33 buzzing
>>> did  you  get the  links  we  sent you  over
>>> on the greenkeys  list  for  sources on 33 manuals and paperwork
>>> we  sent you?  We did not get an acknowledgment.  thanks
>>> Ed#
>>> In a message dated 10/13/2016 4:37:20 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
>>> writes:
>>> The
>>> buzzing definitely seems to be coming from the motor.  I put a
>>> plastic
>>> tool to the casing and could feel it vibrating. However, I can turn
>>> it by
>>> hand (clockwise) and see all the gears and striker mechanisms
>>> working.
>>> It did manage to work briefly yesterday.. it did kind of a
>>> 'reset'.  But
>>> yeah.. not today.
>>> -----Original
>>> Message-----
>>> From: cctalk [] On Behalf
>>> Of Paul Koning
>>> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2016 4:28 PM
>>> To: General
>>> Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
>>> <>
>>> Subject: Re: ASR 33 buzzing
>>> On Oct 13, 2016, at 7:14 PM, Brad H
>>> <>
>>> wrote:
>>>> Posting
>>> around hoping somebody might be able to point me in the right
>>> direction.  I tried greenkeys but no response.
>>>> I have an ASR 33 I got.  When I plug it in on Line mode there is
>>> a
>>>> clicking in the power supply area and nothing else.  If I put
>>> it to
>>>> Off or Local, there is a loud buzzing sound and eventually a 2A
>>> fuse
>>>> on the back left side of the machine blows.  It's like
>>> something's
>>>> stuck but the noise is kind of hard to pin down.
>>> Wondering if there's
>>>> any Model 33 experienced guys out there.
>>> :)
>>> Given the blown fuse I'd suspect a stuck mechanism, so the
>>> motor is stalled
>>> and you're getting overcurrent.  Try turning the
>>> motor by hand to confirm.
>>> paul

Reply via email to