It is interesting, I do take longer with the hand tools but I've never seen as much damage as with a desoldering type iron.
The tips are too small to hold a good tin and the suction cools the joint too fast. Doing it with regular irom and a pullit does take skill. One has to know how to work the pin and the iron. One has to know when a pin is desoldered by feel. It was mentioned, to freshen the solder first and if there are problems, refill the joint. Patience is also required. Dwight ________________________________ From: cctalk <[email protected]> on behalf of Jon Elson <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 9:35:16 AM To: [email protected]; Discussion@ Subject: Re: Soldapullt original vs III On 01/16/2017 06:40 AM, Corey Cohen wrote: > So I think I need to upgrade to a real Soldapullt instead of the RadioShack > special. > > Is the slimline III model as good as the original bulky one? I don't mind > the xtra pressure to push down the plunger on the original, I'm concerned > with the effectiveness and ability to get in tight places my Hakko FR gun > can't fit easily or when it's not worth changing tips for a single different > component. > > Well, these things work, but if you've ever used a real desoldering station with vacuum pump (or venturi pump) you'll realize how second-rate they are. I routinely desolder things like 68-pin connectors with a Pace desoldering tool. The long-acting suction with a pump makes it work 10X better. The trick, as described in the Pace manuals, is you heat the connection for several seconds, then apply vacuum and orbit the tip so it moves the component pin in the plated through hole. That orbiting gets ALL the solder out of the hole. It is amazingly better than the piston-type solder pullers. There are also units that combine the heated tip with the piston suction unit, and work better, as the joint is kept hot while the solder is pulled out. This is kind of in between the two other types. Jon
